Le Monstre du Vin

The Dirty "T" Word

2011-10-23T21:23:00.005-04:00

"Terroir"... I'm certainly one who loves to bandy that word about. Seems like the scholarly cool wine-guy term to use to make you look like you know what your talking about. But I actually do "believe" in the concept of terroir. Well, let's go back a couple steps...

"Terroir" is that hard to describe French term that has no simple translation. The example is that you can take the rootstock from Barolo Brunate, plant it in the same type of soils somewhere else, approximate the climatic conditions to a "t" and you still cannot make Barolo Brunate in Mendoza. Thus the "terroir" of Brunate is singular and Brunate can never to be reproduced anywhere but on those white soils of La Morra. But there is another connotation to the term. It is that of being able to taste "terroir". Well, I can assure you that there are many, many folks that can taste wines blind and tell you which one is Puligny-Montrachet Les Folatieres and which one is Puligny-Montrachet Les Pucelles simply from a sniff, swish and swallow. But what about the notion that "terroir" is really code for "rustic" which can be code for "dirty" if you take it 12 steps further.

I've always had a soft spot for wines that I feel express their place. Wine comes from grapes, which the last time I checked is a fruit. And when I eat fruit, I like it to not be bitter. So why then are there many wines that are supposedly "terroir"-based, that are overtly earthy, lacking in fruit and charm, many loaded with discernable flaws like brett or volatile acidity? To me, "terroir" doesn't mean the wine tastes like a hairball your cat just spit up. It only means that it has a signature, a story that tells the tale of the place from which it hails. It also doesn't mean that it is necessarily good. Many wines have passed my lips that have been very reflective of a place, a place that I don't really want to taste again. St. Romain comes to mind. By and large, it is disgusting Chardonnay to me. I honestly want to drive a tractor trailer through the entire appellation and build McMansions there. Would be a better use of the land than making crap Burgundy, but I digress...

JCB the 4th

Ya Heard Me...

2011-10-20T17:26:00.003-04:00

Good evening, friends. As my usual move, I'll apologize for not being prolific writing. But hey, I got thangs to do.

This post is just about a few random things that I've heard of late, not to be attributed to the person who said it to keep the guilty innocent...

-In reference to a pretty violently corked bottle presented to me for tasting after I said that I thought it was not sound, "It's funky now for sure but it will get better with some air."

-In reference to a friend who doesn't have a Twitter account, "I don't believe in twat!"

-In reference to some very much needed ice in NYC, the gas attendant said, "I can give you a cup of ice for $1.50 or a bag for $2.50."

-In reference to some particularly delectable salumi, "It's like meat butterscotch!"

-In reference to the local bakery guy not having any coffee ready at 9:15am, "The girl just left me here...sorry, but it''s not my fault."

-In reference to the not particularly cold bottle brought to a BYO, a server brings a glass filled with ice cubes and a spoon, "For your wine..."

Wine rant on the way this weekend...

JCB the 4th

A Pig's Life...

2011-09-06T12:54:00.015-04:00

I know what you're thinking but I'm actually not referencing myself with this blog post title.

On the literal plane, it describes my Sunday evening exploits, as I experienced a Cuban pig roast courtesy of my buddy and supplier, Juan Prieto. Juan and I have been traveling to Burgundy for five years running (actually going back again in October) visiting his terrific stable of producers. So while we certainly are biz associates, our relationship is very tight and I consider him one of my closest friends in the wine business and in life. Juan just passed a milestone birthday over the weekend and his family decided to celebrate that momentous occasion and the Labor Day holiday all rolled into one, Cubano style!

One thing I can assure you is that Cuban's will not let you go hungry. There was enough food on hand to solve the Somali crisis. Three kinds of rice: one white, one yellow with red beans and one with black beans, salads, oysters, clams, mussels, lobster tail, corn and pork empanada, croquetas de jamon. This list was exhaustive and truly delicious. But the Yucca con Mojo was devastating. It's like a somewhat mild-n-sweet version of a white potato, boiled and covered with a light garlic and olive oil sauce that just brightens the Yucca with a blast of sunshine. I couldn't stop eating it. And then there was the pig...

Juan relayed to me the process of selecting a pig for a roast. He goes to a local farm and actually looks for the right pig. According to Juan, you want one that is lively...one that seems alert and mobile. Sluggish pigs won't do. After selecting the right one, they butcher it for you and butterfly it, cleaning out the nasty bits so you don't have to. Juan has this tremendous wood box lined with metal that cooks the pig to perfection by placing burning coals on top of the box. Ours was a small pig...50 lbs small in fact. Overnight marinating in bitter orange, garlic and other seasonings and 4.5 hours of roasting in that box and you have the most succulent, tender meat with a beautiful crispy skin. We all just started picking on it, pulling pieces of what are essentially cracklings off the pig. It was heavenly. When it came time to dig into the meat, as per Juan's suggestion, I went right for the cheek...the guanciale so to speak. I dug my fingers in and ripped the cheek off, leaving me with a feeling of primal manhood, a little caveman-esque rush came over me. And I'm not the only one. A six year old, very adventurous neighborhood girl came over to the pig and immediately asked to eat the ears, both of them! After walking away from the table for less than a minute, she came back to request another ear....sorry, darling -- pigs just like humans only have two.

My barbaric inner Cro-magnon soul was quickly followed by a wave of civility as I sat down with a knife and fork to eat this plate of loveliness with a glass of 2001 Domaine Leroy Pommard Les Vignots. The wine was spot on, as the Brits would say, as most 2001's are in position A at present. The moist tender and flavorful meat melded with the Pinot Noir in the most natural of ways, like each existed only to serve the other. Truly a heart wrenching (as well as artery clogging) experience that will stay with me for quite a while...in more ways than one.

All in all we enjoyed some Rose by Mas de Cadenet from magnum, a textbook 2002 Puligny-Montrachet AC magnum by Domaine Bzikot, and a life-altering bottle of 2001 Lamy-Pillot Le Montrachet Grand Cru that just kept stretching its greatness with such class as time went by among other wines. The party going on late into the night, more and more pork, magnificent wines, salsa music providing much of the backdrop, it was a great evening celebrating the life of a very good friend. Happy Birthday, Juan!

Come to think of it, maybe the title references me after all...

JCB the 4th

A Gentlemen's Lunch

2011-07-19T08:44:00.009-04:00

If it seems the return of Le Monstre is food based, you may be on to something. C.R.E.A.M (Cash Rules Everything Around Me, for those not familiar with the Wu Tang Clan) has been replaced by F.R.E.A.M. And while that doesn’t exactly roll off the tongue or even make much sense, it allows me to mention the Wu in a blog post…which warms my heart.

Every once in a while our good client and better mate, Angus, will come to town to pick up some wine but more importantly, for us to have a proper Gentlemen’s Lunch. Angus is an Aussie, who officially lives in Manhattan but is constantly traveling the most remote places in the world. I will often get a witty reply to one of our 56 offerings from some micro-village in Africa or Asia. Angus is nothing if not witty, with a repartee that puts mine to shame. Also possessing a pro’s palate, he’s actually in the process of becoming an MW. He’s that good. Add it all up and you have a great guy to spend a couple hours dining with.

We’ve had four or five of these now, usually Chris and I along with my good friend, Doug. We’ll frequent the Pluckemin Inn or Restaurant 252, grab a few bottles and have a nice two hour lunch and just generally geek out on wine, food and life. A good, long lunch is something that has fallen by the wayside in our society. It’s understandable – busy schedules and the need to produce at a high level doesn’t usually allow for two hours of eating in the middle of the work day. Unless you are from Spain, in which case it’s expected. Hell, you can’t even find a business open during “Siesta” hours. But I’m actually working during this lunch (remember, Angus IS a client) so I’m doing my duty. I love my duty. Reminds me of my good friend, Manish Bardolia, and his blog post on combining work and passions. Anyway, for this Gentlemen’s Lunch we went back to the scene of the very first one, Sette Cucina in Bernardsville.

Allan Russo is the most under-rated chef in NJ. He doesn’t do nouveau cuisine. He doesn’t build skyscrapers on a plate or use chemistry or power tools to produce food. What he does is take you to the essence of traditional Italian cooking. He keeps it REAL. Want one of the best meals you’ve ever had and be transported to a trattoria in Campania without buying the plane ticket or getting crushed by the Euro? Just go to Sette and ask Alan to cook for you. No menu, no constraints…he will make it like in the old country with heart and passion. We’ve hosted many Italian winemakers at his restaurant: Gianluca Grasso, Christina & Isabella Oddero, Vinzia Novara from Firriato, Ivan Rapuzzi of Ronchi di Cialla. All have gushed on how amazingly authentic the food is. “It’s like I’m eating at home!” remarked Gianluca Grasso.

For the Gentlemen’s Lunch, we just had Allan cook. He started us with Bruschetta, homemade garlic bread, ripe red tomatoes, fresh basil and extra virgin olive oil. Angus is always good for bringing old Aussie wines and he supplied a mature 1991 Tyrells Semillon from Hunter Valley. Next up, Antipasto Fantasia, thinly sliced Prosciutto di Parma, sweet soppressata, “Cinque Stelle”, Gorgonzola, and Poached Bosco Pears. A simple yet utterly delicious plate that was devoured in a blink, we attempted to pair it with a bottle of 2001 Ronchi di Ciallo Ciallabianco but alas the bottle was corked. Back to the Semillon…

Next was Antipasto Caldo, an eye-popping plate of sweet and sour Yellow & Orange Peppers with Homemade Sausage. This was so simple and so flavorful, as well as appealing to the eye. You always see a dish first, setting your mind up for the flavors to follow. To me presentation is very important, never better illustrated than with this dish. We cracked open the 2004 Cascina Chicco Barbera d’Alba Bric Loira, a perfectly aged and delectable Barbera that is drinking brilliantly.

Then Alan brings out a plate that will remain in my mind for a very, very long time. Tortellini al Profumo di Tartufo, Baby Torellini sautéed with toasted Pancetta, touch of Cream and Truffle Essence…my God, this was orgasmic. I mean just look at it! I felt as if my body was leaving the planet and rising to the heavens. We uncorked the clear wine of the afternoon, the 1985 Emedio Pepe Montepulciano d’Abruzzo. Words aren’t really sufficient to describe the depth of this old Montepulciano with this magical mushroomy, salty, creamy plate of love.

Finally, we finished with another old Aussie wine that Angus provided, the 1996 Bowen Estate Shiraz Connawarra, a dark fruited, gamy wine that reminded me of a great Languedoc, a la Grange de Peres. It was fantastic with Vitello al Gorgonzola, Escalope of Veal, sautéed Crimini Mushrooms and Gorgonzola, perfectly picking up the earthy notes of the dish and melding with the Shiraz. One would never confuse this coolish Coonawarra with the sappy Shiraz that are mass produced today. Truly lovely stuff…

Much discussion by the Gentlemen of which I can’t divulge. For what happens at a Gentlemen’s Lunch stays there, only to be revisited at the next one. Not soon enough…

JCB the 4th

Down & Out In Napa City Part II

2011-07-10T15:31:00.005-04:00

Woozy with the simultaneous outrage of the prior evening’s meal and fortified with a little booze and a lot of wine still coursing through my system; I woke early from my beautiful room at Avia Napa seeking redemption, a little exercise and something to soak up last night’s exploits. Unshaven and unshowered, I wandered out of the hotel and began to walk Napa City. With the streams of disappointment still burning in my mind, I began to search for some silver lining. I mean, Napa is supposed to be going through a revival – a rebirth that is revitalizing the town and luring tourists by the droves. While this was no Shawshank, Gillwoods provided the perfect start to what was to become an unforgettable day of dining. I don’t really need to go any further than showing you this photo of a perfectly done Belgian Waffle with Fresh Mixed Berries and a side of Slab Bacon. Nuff said…

We jump in the car and head to Sonoma for an appointment with an old friend who had a lead for us that worked out brilliantly. I’m proud to announce that there will be a 2010 Pre en Pierre Chardonnay Russian River Valley and it is delicious! Terry Thiese once wrote that “delicious” is a word that is under-utilized in tasting notes. I agree and am here to reclaim the word and grab it from the world of pedestrian nomenclature. It encapsulates so much in those nine little letters. Who doesn’t like “delicious” foods, wines, people? I try to use “delicious” every day. If you do the same, your life will be enhanced no doubt…

Anyway, we find the “delicious” Chardonnay and plow through about 40 other really awful bulk wines. I mean thoroughly revolting wines! I’m talking about turning the cap to the bottle and having shitty, spritzy wine flying out at me covering my face with a thin film of grossness. Believe me, we taste a lot of poo before we find these little wine jewels. With that torture finished yet running a little late for our next appointment, I ask if we have time for a quick bite to eat, Lita and I leading the charge for some sustenance. The short answer was no but then on our way to the next meeting, we quickly swerve into a parking lot at what appears to be a sleepy roadside grill.

Henweigh’s Café was like an oasis among the scrubby landscape of Occidental. We walk in to this quiet restaurant with our typical New York City bluster informing the waitress that we need to order quick and leave quick to make an appointment. She smiles and says, “Sure, no problem. What can I get for you?” We order five Arnold Palmers and ask what’s good? Then a voice comes out of nowhere; a grizzled old guy looking slightly disheveled lifts his head up doing his best Billy Bob Thornton in Slingblade impression, “Get the pulled pork…” and then returns to his food never to be heard from again. Armed with the recommendation of a local (always a good idea) we all order Pulled Pork Sandwiches. In less than a couple minutes, the waitress brings five refreshing Arnold Palmers, a perfect division of iced tea and lemonade clearly evident in the contrast of colors. It struck me that she did this faster and with more care than anything that happened at the Napa Disaster the evening before. Then came the sandwiches…

Made by a transplanted Boston-ite chef-owner, who spotted our NY accent as easily as we spotted his Red Sawks drawl; this was one of the best things I’ve ever eaten. Yes, I said it! So succulent, perfectly smoky, slightly sweet and melting in your mouth, it was like all the sins of yesterday washed away with that sandwich. Starting to nibble on them, we were powerless against the pulled pork accompanied with homemade potato chips. Thinking it was better to take in the “terroir” of Henweigh’s by eating this masterpiece at the counter than it was to be on time, we quickly devoured this heavenly delight. Thanking our hosts profusely, we barreled out of the parking lot like Starsky and Hutch chasing a coke dealer.

Two more appointments with lots of blending and tasting of more samples and the trip was officially over. The only thing left was the “out”, as in back to San Francisco for dinner and an early am flight back home. Hitting the normal maddening traffic on the Golden Gate Bridge, we arrive at Spruce in a huff. I hadn’t even had an opportunity to change clothes from the day’s tastings so I was wearing a white t-shirt, jeans, sandals with my sunglasses perched on my now tanned bald dome. Warmly greeted by the maître d, we were shown to our table in the gorgeously adorned restaurant. I couldn’t help but notice the elderly woman with huge glasses lock her gaze upon me as I walked by her table. Her eyes never leaving me with a look of disdain as if to say, “Morris, who let this riff-raff in OUR restaurant? What in the world is this negro wearing in OUR favorite place?!?” Chuckling as I took my seat, that is where the pretentiousness ended. We all took turns laying into the extensive and very well chosen wine list and decided to begin with a gorgeous bottle of NV Diebolt Vallois Champagne Brut Blanc de Blancs “Cuvee Prestige.”

Everything, I mean everything done at Spruce is top-notch. Not only the sommelier but each server, food runner and bus boy had an air of confidence that didn’t feel stuffy; something one would acquire from a) experience b) excellent training and c) confidence that you will do everything to make the customer feel welcomed and satisfied. A delightful amuse gave way to my first course, Seared Sweetbreads over Tagliarini with Foraged Mushrooms. Whoever came up with the name for the thymus gland as “sweetbreads” is a real joker…There is nothing sweet nor bread-like about them. Just the most tender, fleshy gift from the food gods that have richness and succulence to stand up to the perfectly al dente pasta and the earthy but subtle flavors of the champignon. A magnificently conceived and executed dish that set my weary brain ablaze with sensation. Surprisingly, the dish even worked with Brian’s selection of 2003 Raveneau Chablis Montee de Tonnerre 1er cru. The deux mille trois was in great shape, minerally and briny, fresh and vibrant and showing no signs of oxidation. Brilliant!

Finally, for the main course Chris ordered a sexy beast of a wine, the 1995 Joseph Roty Mazy-Chambertin Grand Cru. Expertly decanted by our sommelier, this wine was beauty personified in a glass. I knew some form of meat was in my future and went with the Honey Lacquered Duck Breast with Cinnamon Spiced Fois Gras, Watercress and Glazed Rhubarb. This sounds like its sticky sweet but the chef’s sensibilities here worked with smashing results. This is a rich dish for sure and not for those seeking to slim down, but my God was that fois gras melt-in-your-mouth good! I finished up with a cocktail, one of my favorites called The Last Word and off we raced to get half of our traveling crew to the airport. Many thanks to Brian DiMarco, Lita Rosenberg and Ted Wilson (and Chris Cree) for a great and successful trip.

The “out” more than compensated for the “down”.

JCB the 4th

Down & Out In Napa City

2011-07-08T12:14:00.004-04:00

“Here’s a dime, boy…Gimme a shine, boy,

Down and out in New York City

Ain’t no way to be, but where can you go?

When you’re down and out in New York City”

James Brown, Down In Out In New York City, Original Soundtrack to Black Caesar

I know -- you probably thought I was gone for good. I’ve been busy, ok…

Just took a trip with Chris Cree to Napa/Sonoma to find new juice for the shop and experienced it all in terms of food service; the best of the best and the absolute worst of the worst. Stay with me on this one…

Arriving at SFO before the rest of my travel mates, I spent the am/afternoon hours exploring the Ferry Building and the magnificent, Slanted Door. Nothing unexpected here, just beautifully prepared food and attentive service as I sat at the bar alone soaking it all in with amazement. How do they feed so many people -- the place was packed – so quickly and at such a high quality? A funky-looking but tasty Vietnamese Crepe with Shrimp, Pork and Bean Sprouts was the perfect foil to a glass of Veuve-Fourny Champagne Brut Grand Reserve 1er cru. The lively bubbles caressing the delicate flavors of the crepe, I smiled a wide satisfied grin. Since I was eating alone, I’m sure my server peeped my face and thought I was missing a chromosome or two. Caramelized Wild Gulf Shrimp with Onions, Chili and Garlic was sublime with a glorious glass of 08 Donnhoff Kruetznacher Krotenphul Riesling Spatlese. Fat and happy, I waddled out of the Slanted Door and down Market Street, spending the rest of the afternoon wandering the city.

The next day held tons of tastings many of them notable and we found some magnificent wines. The Pre en Pierre label is in for some delectable stuff in the fall! As a confirmed Franc-Ital-o-phile, I sometimes forget that although California wines aren’t the first ones I personally reach for with dinner, there still are some very, very good wines being made. I was energized by the day which included a stop at Gott’s Roadside, the amazing 50’s style lunch joint that formerly was Taylor’s Refresher in St. Helena. I heart Gott’s…and fell head over heels all over again for my old standard, the Ahi Tuna Burger. It’s a solid brick of sushi grade Tuna, seared for just a moment per side and cool in the center. It is heaven on a bun. Opting to give wine a rest, I settled on a beer. It was good, refreshing but forgettable next to that lovely raw slab adorned with Asian slaw.

One constant through the day was the universal acclaim for the restaurant we planned to dine at that evening. I mean, everyone said it was fantastic. One person even told me it was the best restaurant in the valley (I’m assuming this person never had ventured to the French Laundry) so my excitement began to build.

I’m going to let this place go unnamed. As you would suspect, when anything goes unnamed, it ain’t a good sign, disaster looms. I know that everyone has a bad day, an off day and even a really awful day…myself included. This was a bad day, an off day and a really awful day combined to the tenth power for this restaurant. For a moment lets set aside the food – a serviceable for the most part yet innocuous meal with only one of the five dishes we tried (a beautiful braised rabbit) really making a mark in my mind. The service side is where the “down” began…

We’ll call my server Darren. Darren came up to the table literally shot out of a canon. “Ladies & Gentlemen, prepare yourself for one of the most amazing culinary experience of your life!” Wow, now that’s an intro! Now, I’m not saying I’ve eaten everywhere, but I’ve dined at some of the best in New York, DC, Philly, San Francisco, Los Angeles, etc. as well as a number of two star and three star restaurants in France, Italy and Spain. Places where the staff have the grace and elegance of ballet and the service moves in a concert-like rhythmic fluidity . Never at any one of these extremely memorable places have I had a server make such a wildly boastful claim. I’m a child of hip-hop. I’ve been known to throw around some MC-like braggadocio in my day. But can you imagine getting that kind of intro at Le Bernadin, or Le Meurice in Paris? They know they’re the shit…and so do you. They don’t need to make nutty proclamations. They just deliver the goods in every facet; quietly, assuredly, professionally, they allow you to have a great night with whoever you are looking across the table.

So Darren takes our drink order which takes a while because of his constant running commentary on every aspect. I mean, it literally took five minutes just to “order” the drinks. Ordering food took even longer, as Darren’s persistent chatter had us retool the order a couple times. The "process” ended with me ordering a bottle of 2005 Oddero Barbaresco Gallina that I asked to be decanted and then requested to see the sommelier. I’m in the wine biz, and am certainly capable of navigating a wine list. But I like to have the sommelier select wines for me. They know the food. They know the list. Might as well get that input, plus it is fun to bounce ideas off them. No sign of the sommelier…or our wine either. 10 minutes, 15 minutes go by. Our first courses arrive. We start to eat and I flag down Darren letting him know we have no wine. He apologizes (something he became proficient at throughout the night) and says its coming right up. “Here you are, Sir, the Jermann Pinot Grigio 2008", the sommelier says finally showing himself. Damnit! Nope we’re drinking Barbaresco. More apologies, more waiting.

The sommelier returns (although he never introduced himself) and begins to set the glasses for the wine we ordered 30 minutes ago. He sets my glass reaching over my left shoulder to place it in position. Then he takes the glass for Brian, who is sitting across from me, and slides it across the table as if we’re playing shuffleboard, resting pretty close to where it should be. I’m floored! When did this turn into Mel’s Diner? Actually, they wouldn’t even slide a coffee mug at Mel’s Diner. Flo has more sense than that! I look at Brian and he looks back at me like, “Should I go ballistic on this guy right now?” Nearly stepping on my jaw, as it was clearly on the ground a gasp at the glass toss, I think one of us began to smile breaking the tension a touch and onward we go. All told we order a very good 2001 Quintarelli Ca de Merlo followed by an even better 1999 Isole e Olena Cepparello Toscana IGT. I’m guessing we’re in for over $500 in wine alone.

Winding down, I was asked by Bex if I would like some more wine as there was about 1/3 bottle of the Cepparello still left. I respond, “I’d love some but they took my glass away!” Darren overhears this and about five minutes later apologizes for the fourteenth time stating, “I’m sorry we took your glass away too early, but since I don’t want you to go thirsty, here’s a Barbaresco that another table left.” He pours me a glass as I try to keep from busting out laughing, for now it’s getting comical. So the remedy to taking my stems away is presenting me with a leftover from another table? It felt akin to offering me up some uneaten French fries off a diner’s plate. Un-be-lievable!

So what is the final kick in the crotch? We order dessert…nothing comped despite the multitude of miscues. Oh, and I almost forgot – let’s not forget the 20% gratuity added TO THE ENTIRE BILL! Six diners equals automatic tip/screwing including paying 20% on the wine.

So that’s the “Down”, the next day brought a trip to Sonoma and then back to San Fran for the “Out”. Things got WAY better! Although there was nowhere to go but up, we went to the top of the food chain, first at a roadside grill in Occidental and then at one of the best meals I’ve ever had in SF. Stay tuned…

JCB the 4th

The Wild World of Joan Escoda

2011-03-13T13:28:00.007-04:00

Ok, close your eyes...

Dream of a long winding Spanish highway in a DO just outside Montsant, coming down a mountain and make a sharp right turn onto an unmarked dirt road. Envision a mile of gentle hills, native grasses and unkept totally natural terrain. Glide by rows of vines...Chenin Blanc, Pinot Noir, Cabernet Franc, Grenache with vegetation growing among them as the need to not disturb the ecosystem is law here, not marketing hype. Every type of grass, flower, weed are all important. Prepare to be greeted by a grey-haired man looking younger than the grey hair would have you believe. He walks with you through the vines and takes you to his compost pile and digs his hands deep inside. Take a smell! You half-heartedly whiff in the compost of various animals that all reside on the property. Imploring you to feel how warm the pile still is, you politely decline lest you have doo-doo under your nails and subsequently on the keys of your Blackberry.

He shows you the cow horns that he fills with dung and buries among the vines to "dynamize" the soil. He shows you his herding sheep complete with one black one that (surprise, surprise) was actually on its own away from the pack. He walks and rolls a cigarette, lights it and you identify the sweet smell of weed...yeah that kinda weed. He shows you his rabbits, his lamb, his chickens -- basically his organic free-range food and he explains how eating in restaurants often makes him feel ill as the food almost all of them serve is not truly organic...at least not on the level of what he raises.

Follow him to the cellar and taste from tank and from bottle but not from barrel. Wines in barrel are not to be disturbed and they go basically untouched until the time is deemed right. Savor a 2008 Pinot Noir "Llopetera" that you would be hard pressed to not think Volnay if you had your eyes closed. Wrap your lips around a Cabernet Franc, Merlot blend called Coll del Sabater that will make you reconsider benchmark Right Bank Bordeaux in a different light. Listen as various winemakers argue with this man about his philosophies, his wines, his biodynamic "hocus pocus". Watch him subtly fire back but ultimately laugh off the whole thing. Certainly a man who is comfortable with his vision, his process and his outlook on wine, grape growing, winemaking and life.

Welcome to the Wild World of Joan Escoda, biodynamic eccentric rebel of the Conca de Barbera.

JCB the 4th

Bask

2011-03-13T12:58:00.004-04:00

Hand me the glass and let me bask

For not a drop will be forgotten nor will there be the waste of indifference

Swirl, release, anticipate, draw, inhale, envelope, contemplate all the profundities brought to you

Embrace

Let the dance of every facet move you far from alacrity

Relinquish, revel and bask

JCB the 4th

No Rain In Spain...Its Anything But Plain

2011-02-19T14:22:00.007-05:00

Hoping like hell for a reprieve from the blast that descended upon NY/NJ this winter, I was pleasantly surprised and mildly shocked that a balmy 60 degrees greeted me at the Barcelona Airport with a warm embrace. The trip was a whirlwind, no doubt, but the first stop was absolutely unforgettable. Didier Soto (shown with his lovely wife, Nuria) saw a desheveled piece of property in the scrubby hills of Selva de Mar. Between the 1000 year old stone building they have made a home and the ampitheatre of vines terraced on the hillsides of the mountain-fortified bowl that encloses them, the Soto family have created a slice of heaven on earth. But this did not come without serious hard work for it is difficult to bring a run down vineyard back to life. Yet their way of life is simple...biodynamics flows through everything they do, from the vineyard management to the harvest, from the winemaking to the bottling. Phases of the moon, compost, "eye of newt and toe of frog" (thanks Willie) are more than just wine "hocus pocus". They really do work, not only reviving the soil but make amazing wines.

And make no mistake, these wines are amazing. The "Quindals", which is almost all Black Garnacha with a touch of Syrah and Carinena, is the more approachable red they produce with plenty of dark berries and spice tones abound. Shifting to the Vinya Selva de Mar 2004, Didier explains the blend shows a greater percentage of Syrah (30%) and Carinena (20%) with the wine showing more structure, power and packing more concentration. It is so thought-provoking and introspective, a wine that woos you with whispers rather than flash. These wines defy definition. The are typical of a Priorat blend yet they bear no resemblance to those wines whatsoever, being far too mineral and not as flashy. One then thinks of Chateauneuf du Pape, but they don't deliver the same racy raspberry tones nor do they ever show heat. They truly are like no other wines on earth...ah, maybe just a direct reflection of their unique terroir. Isn't that refreshing?

We were blessed to host Didier this past week for an event at Equus Tavern in Bernardsville with the super talented chef, Paul Viggiano, making a magnificent meal to pair with Didier's wines. The night contained so many laughs and such a great vibe that it is almost hard to describe it all. Didier, ever the colorful character, made the evening come to life without hardly speaking. Twas anything but plain for sure...

JCB the 4th

Trainwrecks, Shangri-La and Big Baby Jesus...

2010-12-14T07:33:00.011-05:00

Like Weezer's "Trainwrecks" notes, I have severely neglected this blog. I'll make a pre-New Years resolution to be more prolific. Don't worry, I still love you...

The Italy Deathride commenced in August leading up to Labor Day and was exactly what it sounds like. My man, Enrico Battisti knows how to show you the Italian countryside...the ENTIRE Italian countryside in just 5 days. We whizzed around from Rome to Lazio to Marche (complete with 1am tour of the winery) to Tuscany to Liguria to Piedmont. It was an eye-opening experience with one particular spot truly grabbing my heart.

While I loved Montalcino and will always consider Piedmont my heart, I was absolutely smitten with Liguria and a trip to Poggio dei Gorlieri. Ok, so a three-hour stop for a little sun on the beach in Varigotti certainly helped recharge the weary batteries. But then we climb this amazing hill to find the 30 year old vines of Vermentino, Pigato and Ormeasco (clone of Dolcetto) carefully tended by Davide Merano. This place is like Shangri-La, a spit-shined clean small operation with an agritourismo (lovely Italian B-n-B attached to the winery) that overlooks the Ligurian Sea in the most majestic of fashions. I had such warm feelings being there that I am determined to visit again this summer on my own. Wanna join me?

Davide makes gorgeous Vermentino and a very fun, funky Ormeasco, but Pigato rules the roost here. The Poggio dei Gorlieri Cyncus is like drinking great 1er cru Chablis, all briny and mineral with citrus fruit cocktail, orange peel and sea salt. He made us Paella to enjoy with it, not because it is traditional in Liguria (although the loads of prawns in it are) but because it just works to perfection. This is magnificent wine (Tre Bicchieri winner if that stuff gets your juices flowing) and solid Cellar Defender stuff that just makes any seafood dish snap to life.

Finally, I just re-discovered ODB. Man, I miss this mad genius and can't seem to shake him out of my Ipod. Some think he was crazy, I just think he was tortured and extremely calculating. Gone too soon...give the album, "N****, Please", a listen if you want to wrap your mind around the rantings of a nutcase. It's fascinating and booty shaking stuff!

Merry Christmas, Happy Holidays and All That,

JCB the 4th

Yo! Bum Rush the Show!

2010-11-18T07:24:00.006-05:00

A routine Friday night and asked to deliver wine to a client after a long and busy day in the shop. Nothing really out of the ordinary here. Grab the 3 cases and jump into my car. The client (let's call him Jack X) lives about ten minutes from my apartment so its really no inconvenience at all...except for the fact that I was dog tired having run up and down the steps at 56 probably 56 times at minimum. 7pm shadow in full effect and adorned in a thermal shirt, jeans, black polar fleece and black skull cap, I certainly looked more 50 Cent than wine director. Pull in the driveway and grab one of the boxes from my trunk and spot a man having a cigarette in the back yard. As I approach, he gives me a look like I was carrying a gat as opposed to two magnums of Elio Grasso Barolo Runcot. I ask, "Is Jack here?" He motions to the sliding glass doors where I see six or seven men laughing in the kitchen. I enter and Jack X yells out, "Joe! Fantastic! You have to stay!" Now, I know two of the gentlemen there and the others both give me the same look as the one outside. File this under, "When you dress like a hood rat, don't be surprised when folks in beautiful homes give you odd stares when you waltz into their party"...

I tell J-X, "No, really, I have to go," knowing that I'm neither daisy fresh nor really in the mood to be charming or even social. He insists, "No, you have to stay! I had a cancellation and we're blind tasting a ton of wines!" Once again, I tell him that I really can't. "Nonsense! Here!" He whips out two Champagne flutes with the quickness of a gazelle. "In your left hand is 93 Dom Perignon and in your right hand is 96 Dom. Just a warm up and everything else served will be blind. We've got 23 wines open! We need help drinking all this!"

1993 and 1996 Dom? Really? Ok, I'm staying for a while.

I run off to the bathroom and try to clean up a bit. I meet everyone there. A lovely bunch of wine fiends who have a local blind tasting group. Each month or so, a different gentlman hosts and provides the wine and food. J-X did it to the max! We tasted the following blind flights with J-X's titles...

First Flight - Red Burgundy - Hard to Find Vintage Variations
1955 Charles Vienot Richebourg Grand Cru (no misprint, 1955!)
1995 Haegelen-Jayer Clos de Vougeot Grand Cru
2005 Armand Rousseau Gevrey Chambertin Lavaux St. Jacques 1er cru

Second Flight - Chateauneuf du Papes - The Single Varietal King
2000 Chateau Rayas
2006 Chateau Rayas

Third Flight - Chateauneuf du Papes - The King of Blended Chateauneuf du Papes
1985 Beaucastel
1989 Beaucastel
1994 Beaucastel

Dinner Break - Special Guest Tony Grande, Executive Chef and Owner of Il Capriccio
Cooking Demonstration - Taglierini with White Truffle followed by Pan Seared Lamb Chops with Dr. John's Rosemary. Paired with 2001 Cappellano Barolo Otin Fiorin from MAGNUM.

As for the blind tasting, I think I fared well. I guessed the first flight as Burgundy correctly, although the Rousseau had me thinking Oregon Pinot due to its youth and twiggy personality. The second flight I thought was Chateauneuf UNTIL Tony X said to me, "Joe, you've been to this place! You know these wines!" Having never been to the Rhone ever (don't know why he thought I had) I adjusted my guess to Burgundy, the only appellation I have visited. Stick with your instincts is the lesson here. The third was a "banker" as Chris Cree would say...clearly aged Chateauneuf and probably my favority flight, as I am a huge Beaucastel fan. At this point, satiated and saturated with great wines and glorious food, I profusely thanked everyone and took my leave. They on the other hand had other plans, as they were just hitting third gear. I missed a flight of Chilean Bordeaux Blends, aged California Cult Cabernets, dessert of Strawberries Sabayon and finally 1995 Chateau d'Yquem and 1959 Chateau Climens. Wow!

JCB the 4th

This is Why I'm New York...

2010-10-13T16:21:00.010-04:00

Walking through the Lower East side, Tuesday night 11:03pm on 1st Avenue en route to Hearth for a Skurnik Wines Champagne slaying. Spot a man who has set up shop along a fence selling used clothing, albums, small appliances, DVD's, etc, but mainly t-shirts. Odd timing for a "yard sale", but I digress.

While we breeze by the wares, another gentleman states to the "shop" owner in hopes of barter, "I've got some really good Swiss cheese. You like cheese, right?"

I shit you not; couldn't possibly make that up. I'm not that clever. Only in NYC...

The Champagne was great and the sights beautifully etched. You gotta love a lubricated Terry Thiese, a pig roast with all the trimmings and a few wrestling matches in a room filled with NY's most talented sommeliers grappling for table scraps of bubbly. It made the whole evening unforgettable. Gaston Chiquet Blanc de Blancs d'Ay, especially so with its brilliant apple-laced fruit, protractor-like precision and overflow of fun in a flute.

Italy remembrances coming tomorrow.

JCB the 4th

The Return of the Wine Gangster...

2010-10-02T18:21:00.007-04:00

Thought I was gone for good, didn't cha?

No folks, I'm making a return to Le Monstre, motivated to shake up the wine world with passion, emotion, braggadocio and posturing. But with a smile on my face to let you know that I love you.

So much wine over the past three months since last we ran across one another...so much so that I couldn't begin to dig through my Crackberry and give you the laundry list. I made a five day super quick excursion to Italy, on which I will report about more in my next post. The latest wine that is stuck in my head is a dazzlingly fascinating 2008 Knoll Loibner Riesling Federspiel that was cracked open yesterday. I can't stop thinking about how it roared out of the glass and damn near pistol whipped me with tropical fruit, minerals and spice until I wanted to curl up in a ball and cry for my mommy. It was intense like Ice Cube was in Boyz in the Hood. But like the character he played, Doughboy, this wine has heart and soul. We get very little. You heard it hear first. I'm gettin' mine now. Enough said...

If I never hear the term "vintage of the century" again, I believe I will have a better, more rewarding and fuller life. Why would such a perturbing little term allow me to blossom as a human being? Because every time I hear it, I want to physically throw up. I'm not kidding. I want to run to the bathroom and vomit until nothing is left as it makes me nauseous. The idea that a great, all-time classic vintage can come once every three years for marketing purposes makes the blood boil, my hairs stand up on the back of my neck (I know--none left on my head--very funny) and most likely makes my cholesterol level rocket. I know I shouldn't let it bother me but honestly there is too much emphasis on wanting ONLY the best vintages and WAAAAYYY too many instances where the supposed "throw away" vintage makes you weep with its loveliness. That is why we taste...that is why we enjoy the wine for what it is...that is why we don't bother with numbers but rather with art form.

JCB the 4th

A Look Into the 56 Future to Find Whites

2010-07-07T18:16:00.008-04:00

As I peer into my crystal ball...I see dead people!

Sorry, wrong movie--this is the crystal ball of 56 Degree Wine, so now I present a preview of next weeks' offerings; the summer's hottest selections of white wines from the hottest (coldest) shop in the entire world...

St. Aubin from Didier Larue - If you've been reading this blog for a while, you know that I've got a serious Jones for Didier Larue's wines. In particular, his 2008's are clearly the best St. Aubin wines I've ever tasted. I thought so when I first got a glimpse of them in barrel during my 2009 visit to the winery and the extra year plus has only solidified my notions. The two jewels in his considerable crown must be En Remilly and Murgers des Dents de Chiens. These wines encompass everything I love about Burgundy. They have the definition of Angelina Jolie's silhouette coupled with the buxom layers of voluptuousness that make it sex in a glass. But this is no tart; these wines are all class, with a sense of the regal and an elegance that belies bombast. In short, I adore them...

Huet - While I know the name Huet is synonymous with greatness, saying that you love their Vouvray is not exactly breaking new ground. They have been the greatest of Loire estates for a very, very long time. But a recently shared bottle of their 2008 Vouvray Sec Clos du Bourg left me shaking my head. I could hardly contain myself with the burgeoning pattering in my chest that grew to a raucous thump. I fell in love with Chenin all over again, and I know that there is not another bone-dry expression of the grape that is better than this. And the best part is that it will set you back just $33 per bottle. Amazing that you can get the greatest example for such a small tariff, but indeed it is true.

JCB the 4th

Puligny Montrachet at the Expense of Civilization

2010-06-23T18:13:00.009-04:00

I'm back, mutha's!

And I've been drinking only the good stuff. I'll get more creative with my next post as I have some seriously wacko stuff running around my head that needs to get out lest I have a brain infarction. In the meantime, check out these tasty morsels, some of which can be had at your friendly neighborhood 56 Degree Wine...

2009 Ameztoi Txacoli de Getaria - super-limey, taut and mineral white made from partially red grapes from the back water Basque country in Spain. Poured from high with a special apparatus to froth it up in a tumbler, this is about as niche-y as it gets and MY summer white of choice this year and forever more...unless some decides to start selling Puligny Montrachet for $22...which would mean the end of the world is near...and I'd be drinking my sorrows away at our destruction...it's not worth it...I'll stick with Txacoli.

1997 Chateau d'Yquem from 375ml

2001 Giacosa Barbaresco Falletto White Label

2009 Txomin Etxaniz Txacoli de Getaria

1990 Chateau Montelena Cabernet Sauvignon Estate Napa Valley

NV Jacques Selosse Champagne Blanc de Blanc Substance

2000 Jean Boillot Puligny Montrachet Les Perrieres 1er cru

2006 Bernard Morey Chassagne Montrachet Les Embrazees 1er cru

2001 Marc Colin Chassagne Montrachet Les Caillerets 1er cru

2005 Fichet Meursault Les Gruyaches

2005 Kistler Chardonnay Stone Flat Parmalee Hill

--Yes, I'm well aware that there are two California wines (Montelena was monumental with a 3 inch Porterhouse) in that list drank not under duress or at gunpoint and no, I'm not changing teams...gotta spread the love a little...now gimme back my Chorey les Beaune!--

NV Laurent Dauphin Champagne Brut Tradition - Not sure if this is economic downturn, euro-sliding, pricing error or just dumb luck, but I can't for the life of me figure out how this label says its from Champagne but it's only $28 per bottle. A dry, but mouthfilling and lively bubbly that drinks like a wine that costs WAY more, this is value Champers that defies the odds. Oh, how I love GREAT and CHEAP!

JCB the 4th

Its the Wines You Love to Hate...

2010-05-22T07:29:00.010-04:00

Feel free to comment on your concurring/disagreement with my notion that these are the worst grapes in the world...and pictured is the soon to be member of this countdown, my grapevine bonsai that will one day produce a thimble of wine which will chart on this list.

5 - Cabernet Sauvignon - Before you start the chant to have me stoned in the village, I'll preface this by saying that this falls more under the category of overrated in my mind, rather than just god-awful. Left Bank Bordeaux certainly need not apply, as well as our California brethren that get it right and don't let their wines taste like some candy-coated exaggeration of the grape. But since Cabernet Sauvignon is seemingly grown in every nook-n-cranny, it has a target. I taste these wines on the regular and there are so many examples of greenish or flabby or overoaked versions of this grape that it often bears no resemblance whatsoever to the originator. I mean, we're talking about a LOT of wine here.

4 - Furmint - This grape is really awful and oh so appropriately named. It really does taste like fur and mint. Mmm, doesn't that sound delicious?

3 - Carmenere - I'm still at a loss to understand why these wines from Chile hold so much favor with the wine public. I'll admit that this is really more an indictment of Chilean wines in general than so much on this grape but they go hand in hand. Usually stalky and funky, these wines are grown on the wet side of the Andes...a fact that is hard to deny and equally difficult to recover from no matter how much oak you apply.

2 - Savagnin - This is the grape of Jura that makes that super-oxidative, trunk-o-funk wine that is almost brown and tastes like a hairball. I think I just threw up in my mouth a little.

1 - Pinotage - So firmly entrenched as the most awful grape in the world, that there is really nothing else to look at. For I would rather grab a glass and put one ounce each of a Jura, Carmenere, Furmint and Cabernet Sauvignon, stir it and drink it down rather than suffer the pain of Pinotage. Seriously, what knucklehead thought it would be a good idea to cross Pinot Noir (the greatest grape on earth, unquestionably) with Cinsault. Just the idea is preposterous! This filthy, vile grape is like drinking faint berry toned sod with pepper, bitters and farmers armpit after a hot day amongst the vines. It's clearly the worst grape in the world.

JCB the 4th

It's All About the Jackson's!

2010-05-12T16:00:00.007-04:00

I'm back, people!

And I'm ready to spit all the wildness that has been building in my head. Through tragedy ALWAYS comes triumph. Don't forget it...there's serenity in the notion.

Speaking of notions, when did the wine landscape become so cavernous that this jewel of juicy joy from Saumur had been kept away from so many for so long. It is none other than the 2008 Lydie et Thierry Chancelle Saumur Blanc and it is here to ravage you.

Chenin Blanc is the grape that polarizes many but in the hands of an artisan with great vineyards, I defy you to not recognize and behold the wonder in the glass. I could go on and on for days about the bounty of citrus, stones, lemon/limes (call it li-mon), minerals, white corn and saltiness superior, but I won't... Oops! Well, I guess I just did! No, this won't set you back like Bienvenue Batard or even village Meursault. This cup-runneth-over-with-love white will cost you just an old wrinkled photo of Andrew Jackson, nothing more. I know...you're welcome...twas my pleasure as always...

Next on the hit list--the varietals I love to hate.

JCB the 4th

Poetry, Gibberish or Maniac Musings...You Decide

2010-05-11T18:28:00.002-04:00

Another
Bembry
Controversy…
Disingenuous
Enological
Forms
Growing
Hella (exponentially)
In
Jeopardy!
Knocking
Le
Monstre’s
Nausea
Over
Poofy
Quaffs &
Ridiculous
Styling (is)
Thrusting
Unsuspecting
Venom (to)
Wild
Xenophobes
Yearning (for)
Zen

JCB the 4th

In Memorium

2010-05-10T21:03:00.004-04:00

Joseph Clinton Bembry III

November 23rd 1941 - April 25th 2010

The Greatest Man I've Ever Known

Le Monstre returns full force tomorrow.

JCB the 4th

Let Me Talk Oeschle To You, Baby!

2010-04-19T18:17:00.010-04:00

I'm going to over-generalize here, as I've been known to do a couple hundred times. Riesling is the least appreciated grape on Wine Planet Earth and I am at a loss to completely understand it. Well maybe not a total loss. Leave it to the Germans to make the classification system as complicated, verbose and consonant-laden as possible. It's almost as if there is a secret language to the wines that has no root system, an utter and complete vinous mystery that is purposely being perpetrated upon us and they're laughing. Those bastards are laughing at our ignorance. Hawk-ptoo! We're being spat at!

But it's not as cumbersome as you'd think and there is more to Riesling than Germany, residual sugar and the Oeschle scale. Let's stick with Germany for now, it's QbA wines--your garden variety basic Riesling from any region--are picked first, tend to have very little sweetness and are easy on the wallet. After that, if you see Kabinett on the label, its picked next, a touch sweeter. Then the Spatlese (my "sweet spot" for age-worthy killer wines that aren't super-expensive) and finally Auslese. As you go up the classifications, you tend to go up the sweet-o-meter, also know as the Oeschle scale or must weight measurer. And herein lies the issue. Somewhere along the line, the public got the ill-advised word that residual sugar in a wine is gross, repugnant, flat-out tacky and passe. "Who me? I only drink dry wines. Might as well drink White Zinfandel, you ignoramus, and while your at it, comb your mullet and enjoy that homemade sleeveless flannel shirt of yours, heathen!" And it actually is gross without that four letter word that I love so dear. You know...acid! Oh yeah, these wines have so much acid that sometimes I think there is a hippy in the bottle. It keeps the wines so fresh and so clean like Outkast and allows them to age gracefully like Raquel Welch. And let's not forget food. If you're going for Thai, Indian, Chinese, Ethiopian or just about any other lovely 3rd World cuisine, you better have a tall skinny bottle in tow. Oh, did I mention that most of these wines age forever too. Riesling is perfection, people!

But Germany is just the tip of the iceberg. World class Rieslings can be had from Austria and Alsace and a plethora a brilliant wines come from Australia, Italy, California, Oregon, Washington, New Zealand and South Africa. Even Tasmania, as evidenced by our outstanding Wine of the Month selection for April, the 2006 Moorilla Riesling. It's just off dry, has a touch of bottle age and is a shockingly wonderful example of the grape in its unabashed nakedness. Want to try this wine and many more covering the entire range of all Riesling can be? Just sign up for our 3rd Annual "Unbearable Lightness of Riesling" Festival Vol. 3 on Sunday April 25th at 252 Restaurant in Bedminster, NJ. It will be an outstanding day and it just might be the Riesling epiphany that you've spent your whole life searching for.

JCB the 4th

Frothing at the Mouth - Subtle Wine Diversion of April 2010

2010-04-11T20:34:00.011-04:00

It's readily apparent. Le Monstre has been ornery as all get out lately. But it ain't all my fault. Pressure mounts and manifests itself in sometimes obvious but often ridiculous ways...

- If I have been testy of late, my grandmother is the queen of cantankerous. I had the pleasure of Easter Sunday dinner with her just recently. While she doesn't get around as well as she used to (70 years of smoking and 50 years of knocking back Wild Turkey will do that to you) she still has the gift of gab and knows exactly how to cut someone to their core. In the same breath that she fawned over my son, she barked out orders to the "kitchen staff"--i.e. my mother and I, that the food was not ready at the exact time we anticipated and she was done waiting. Once the food came out, a similar refrain was handed down when the strawberry shortcake had not been assembled 5 minutes after dinner was consumed. At least she had the decency to complement the wine I brought, the 2001 Lopez de Heredia Rioja Reserva Vina Bosconia, although she only had a taste. I adore the stuff and its the perfect elixir for grumpy grandmoms on a holiday.

- As has been documented but I try to conceal, lest my wine cred be completely tarnished, I am a singer in a band. Mainly we play in clubs for the complete joy and a couple bucks but we have been known to do a few wedding gigs in our time. This past weekends escapades were epic, as the wedding coordinator at the gestapo-like run country club we performed at were mind-boggling. Making corny announcements like, "Welcome to the legendary Blank-blank Country Club" were annoying but when the coordinator gave me the wrong order of the wedding party, barked five contrary orders of what/when we should play within a span of 2 minutes and re-arranged the timing of the entire event to the point of agony made my blood boil. The final coup de grace that sent me over the top was that the band was not to use the bathroom in the lobby where the guests were. OH HELL NO! That was it! I'm dressed in a suit like anyone else here! What is this...Jim Crow laws? I told the guys in the band that I'm taking a leak in the lobby and that if anyone says a word to me that the gig is over. Try explaining to the bride and groom (who were lovely, by the way) that the band got kicked out for using the wrong potty.

- Jim Nantz was irritating as hell today while watching the Masters coverage. All praise due to champion Mill Pickleson, but if I hear Nantz bring up one more time Tiger Woods "swearing" on the golf course during the 3rd round, I'm gonna puke. After hitting a poor shot on the 6th hole, Mr. Woods said, "Tiger, you suck! Goddamn it!" Nantz obviously wants to subtly pile on the Worlds #1 for his indiscretions. It's not like he mooned the crowd or dropped an F-bomb! And what golfer in the world hasn't said something like that before? I know I have and I'm certainly not out there playing for a major championship. I'm just trying to keep Laurent Chapuis from making me buy him a burger.

Now here's some good news... A few wines I've had lately that have made me swoon!

2006 Robert Sinskey Merlot Los Carneros - Finishing off the last of the Strike wines, this offering from the organic master has softened and beautifully integrated as of late. Delish!

2007 Paul Pernot Puligny Montrachet - Well made, fragrant White Burgundy that's even better when not poured into a musty stem.

NV Parigot & Richard Cremant de Bourgogne Rose - This is really one of the best deals in the store for Rose Champagne-like character at a wallet friendly price. So easy to drink and extremely versatile...

Thanks for letting me vent.

JCB the 4th

Bubbles, Bosconia & Bordeaux for Bembry!

2010-04-02T13:20:00.006-04:00

Recent excursions show that I'm drinking very, very well right now. Just look at this smile I've got while my son snaps a photo of me at Raymond's while wearing his new shades and waiting for breakfast last Sunday. He had it up on Facebook in seconds yet I still have a smile. It can only mean one thing. With the Strike behind me and now free to sample all of the wine worlds delights, these were the latest and greatest...

1998 Le Brun Servenay Champagne Brut Vielles Vignes Avize - Rich and round and filled to the hilt with apples on steroids, this is hedonistic, luscious bubbles that was downed at breakneck speed. I've been called a Champagne whore in the past and I consider it a compliment...

NV Gatinois Brut Ay from 375ml - further evidence of previous statement.

1999 Hubert Lignier Morey St. Denis La Riotte 1er cru

2001 Lopez de Heredia Rioja Vina Bosconia - If there is a better $35 Rioja than this that is equally suited for the classic and new school palate alike, I'll eat live carpenter ants! So bold and flavorful, one can hardly contain the reckless abandon that this wine gives off. But this wine is no floozy! It's contemplative, coaxing, complex and compelling. Truly divine!

2005 Chateau Les Hauts d'Aglan Cahors - Argentine Malbec lovers need apply, this ratchets up the volume with the blackest fruit you can muster in a small package. If you don't mind a little tannin (or you consume it the way you should with a steak) you are in for a ridiculous value for just $17.

2006 Moorilla Riesling Tasmania - That's right, Tasmania! You can't believe it? Neither can I, but I guarantee that if you close your eyes and take a whiff, you might think Prum first and Aussie last. Absolutely love the little petrol development on the aromatics, this is just off-dry and just dying to be consumed with your Easter ham.

Finally, last night I went to the Essex Wine Society's 1989 Bordeaux Tasting. Now you know that me and Bordeaux have this love/whatever type relationship but a well stored and well aged claret is truly a thing to behold. The wines, in order tasted (blind), with my favorites highlighted...

1989 Beychevelle St. Julien
1989 St. Pierre St. Julien
1989 Poujeaux Moulis en Medoc

1989 Meyney St. Estephe
1989 Montrose St. Estephe
1989 Le Gay Pomerol

1989 Pichon Lalande Paulliac - Best of the night. Amazing!
1989 Pichon Baron Paulliac
1989 Lynch Bages Paulliac

OK, it's time for some Vin Gris. Gimme, gimme!

JCB the 4th

Hypocrite to Hero - The Stream 3.25.10

2010-03-25T16:41:00.007-04:00

I'm sorry.

I just couldn't keep up with the Merlot strike. I'm no Ghandi, no John Lennon. I really tried to hold off for the full 14 days. I love Merlot, really I do. But it began with a little Champagne. Doesn't it always? And then a little Puligny--and then finally Pinot Noir. So since my hypocrisy knows no bounds, I need to do something seriously big things to redeem myself. Here goes the stream...

-On April 8th, Sylvain Bzikot is gracing us with his considerable light as we delve into the heights of Puligny Montrachet at the Pluckemin Inn. It will be an unbelievable night of food and wine. Make sure you are there.

-Read an ad in the Star Ledger today as I was perusing the classifieds offering "Excellent Asian Bodywork Massage, very discreet". The address listed below was a residence on my street. I'm speechless...

-I did a mini-offering on the Marcato Cabernet Franc, as we've got the 2008 in-stock. It is the best $12.50 (per bottle, by the case) that you will spend all year guaranteed. I love, love, love it!

-Tip for the Day - You should consider decanting high quality young Champagne a la Selosse, Rodez Grandes Vintages or Le Brun Servenay. What you lose in bubble, you'll be paid back in spades in flavor. And don't use a flute. Go for a white wine glass to snort up all those great aromas.

-Stevie Wonder Dripping with Funk! Circa 1973, this is just a stone cold jam!

Is that better?

JCB the 4th

I'm on Strike!

2010-03-17T17:54:00.013-04:00

Like all enlightened leaders of the world who realize that violence is not the best way to resolve conflict, I will now take a page from the book of those who came before me. Ghandi did it. The Tibetan Parliament did it. Now I'm doing it.

I will not resort to violence to get you to realize the greatness of Merlot. I will now go on a strike of 14 days where I will drink nothing but Merlot. You know me...you know that I'm a slave to Burgundy, to the Rhone, to Piemonte, to the Nahe. But I will give it all up for you; for your benefit, for your enlightenment, and the richness of your wine soul.

Join me people! Rise up and make a statement that Merlot is not to be taken lightly, laughed at or poked fun of. It is a grape of nobility and complexity, on par with the greatest wines the world has ever seen. I loved the movie, Sideways, but its ripple effects are so deep and so broad that it rocked the American wine consumer to flat out reject one of the best grapes on earth. Who knew that Paul Giamatti and Thomas Hayden Church could wield such power? Sandra Oh (sexy!), perhaps, but those two guys? In the 80's, Merlot was the shizzle...so fashionable and sleek that you just had to be the one ordering a glass of Merlot while you rolled up the sleeves of your white blazer with a turquoise tank underneath. Now, if you order it, you get "sideways" looks and people wonder whether you slipped through a time/space continuum or you're just ignorant. You're neither folks, you're my friend!

This quest began because we profiled a wine, 2007 Chad Merlot Napa Valley, that is so delicious and so cheap, an outrageous value. Yet I sat at my computer and watched a few orders shuffle in. If this said Cabernet Sauvignon on the bottle, it would have sold through the roof! If I told you that it was actually a $40 bottle of wine for $15, would that matter? What if I just lied and told you it was Cabernet? But alas the ATF and my conscience won't allow me to do that, so I'll resort to this strike.

While Tim looks on in amazement as I purchase all the wines I will personally drink over the next 14 days, here is the list...

2007 Chad Merlot Napa Valley

2006 La Violette Cotes de Castillon

2006 L'Ecole #41 Merlot Columbia Valley

2006 Robert Sinskey Merlot Napa Valley

2006 Chateau Puygueraud Cotes de Francs

2006 La Gravette de Certan Pomerol

Spread my message far and wide! Join me! Viva la Merlot!

JCB the 4th

The Genius of Brooklyn Fare

2010-03-14T08:43:00.017-04:00

I've decided to make some recollections of what I consider to be the greatest meal I've ever had. I know, a monstre-ously large statement to make and one that I can completely justify in my mind. I have certainly had more special meals (memorable romantic evenings) and I've certainly had more supremely complete experiences. I'll never forget the concert-like rhythmic movements of the staff at Le Meurice in Paris, the famed Michelin 3-star. It was so precise and the attention to detail elevated the already superb meal to legendary status in my head. But the food delivered on February 16th left me in complete awe.

Brooklyn Fare Kitchen is an amazing concept and is the genius of Chef Cesar Ramirez, a former exec-chef for David Bouley. It is called a "class" on their website but really it is the experience of being served the most precise and flavorful food by a master artisan chef live and up close. Having dined at Brooklyn Fare once before and loving the experience, I was eager to repeat it with my co-workers, so I made a reservation for the whole table back in November for February 16th. That's how tough a reservation it is, but believe me, persistence and patience here are well worth the reward you will receive.

Chris Cree did a great job of documenting the extent of culinary wizardry we experienced. Check it out here. Cesar does not allow photos any more and discourages note taking, which is a shame and also completely understandable. In the blogosphere in which we live, the last thing a chef as creative as Ramirez needs is to see digital pictures of his intellectual property out there for other chefs to steal. But it certainly robs food geeks like me of remembering (especially after the 6 magnums we downed, more on that in a bit) everything presented. And I want to remember. I want to file it away in my memory banks, so when I have a moment to daydream, I can recollect, reminisce and draw inspiration from it.

6 courses and 12--no typo--canapes to start. One after another of magnificence on a plate, I have never muttered the word "Wow" so often in one evening. The warm beet soup with Hudson Valley yogurt with a shave of citrus zest was so inviting and welcoming. The Bluefin Toro with a hint of mustard and crisped leeks was luscious. The Kumamoto oyster with grapefruit creme fraiche and oyster juice gelee was breathtaking. The King Crab --stolen photo at right, sue me--with caviar, vanilla and pineapple was explosive. Hell, I even ate Duck testicles (no bullshit) and loved it; fried into a crispy little "ball" that he conveniently didn't tell us what it was until everyone had already eaten it! And how could anyone forget the Cod creme with a mountain of shaved black truffle, so much so that Cesar let us know that the cost of the shaved truffle is more than what we paid for the meal. It is probably the simplest, yet most complex and thoroughly satisfying things that has ever caressed my palate.

The wines were all mags and all tasty...

NV Eric Rodez Champagne Brut "Cuvee des Crayeres" Ambonnay
NV De Meric Champagne Brut "Catherine de Medici" Ay
2001 Domaine Bzikot Puligny Montrachet Les Folatieres 1er cru
1999 Bouchard Corton Charlemagne Grand Cru
2006 Robert Sinskey Pinot Blanc Carneros
1999 Thomas Levet Cote Rotie Chavaroche
1986 Raymond Lafon Sauternes

I urge you to check this place out for yourself, as alas, the times are a changin' at Brooklyn Fare. This summer, they plan to expand, increase the price which is currently $95 per person and add a liquor license which will end the BYO practice. I volunteered to run the wine program for Cesar in exchange for food. Still waiting to hear back...

JCB the 4th

The Stream of Inebriationess from March 5th...

2010-03-05T10:55:00.006-05:00

Probably more appropriate as a series of tweets but I wanted to get some short thoughts out...

- What in the world is up with restaurant markups on wine? Seriously, as someone who knows exactly how much these joints pay for this stuff, it's grotesque. I don't want to hear about glass breakage, insurance costs, license aquistitions or any other nonsense. Next time I see Ramey Larkmead Cabernet for $198 on a wine list (we just sold it retail for $55), I'm standing up, slapping the maitre'd in the face with the winelist and walking the *%#& out!

- While I'm on restaurants, why such laziness with selection? Please, for the sake of your customers, do a better job at having something of interest to wine lovers who frequent your establishment. A self-proclaimed winebar I recently visited had just one Riesling by the glass...from Kendall Jackson. Just what I envision when I thirst for Riesling, don't you?

- I was at a tasting last night. I love how polarizing wine can be, and I use the word "love" in the truest sense. Two wines poured next to each other drew visceral reactions from the crowd, some preferring the first and others the second. I guess that is why they make chocolate AND vanilla. When I was asked which I preferred, I simply responded, "Depends on what's for dinner..."

- Because I'm selfish, can suppliers please stop having portfolio tastings on Mondays? It's my one weekday off and tough to get to. I'd like you to all shift your events to Tuesdays, please. Thanks so much.

- I still eat peanut butter and jelly sandwiches like I'm a six year old. They actually go well with Tawny Port. Don't tell anyone I do this...

- 2007 Chateauneuf hype is the biggest perpetration committed against the wine public in quite a while. I've now plowed through enough of them to render an informed opinion that 2006 is better by a wide margin. Ask any truthful CdP producer and they'll tell you that 2006 is a better vintage. I have and haven't found one yet who prefers 2007. I'll keep searching.

- You should recognize the greatness of 2007 Domaine de la Pepiere Muscadet Granite de Clisson. It might be the greatest white wine ever made that goes for less than $25. I also think you'll live a better life once you get some. I know I have...

Le Monstre, OUT!

JCB the 4th

When Only The Best Will Do...

2010-02-18T18:06:00.000-05:00

It's been a while since I've dropped the top picks, so it's time for some good ol' fashioned shuckin' for sheckles, or as some may say, showing off the goods. This is the weeks' best tasted and approved selections at 56...

2008 Willowbrook Pinot Noir Sonoma County - I am continually amazed at just how many unheard of outfits there are in California these days making really good wine at very fair tariffs. Add this the list as it flavorful, lovely wine eschewing the steroid-size Pinot trend. Especially with Pinot, it's not about who's is bigger, but more about delivering pleasure. This wine has it down to perfection.

2008 Domaine du Bagnol Cassis Blanc (can't get the damn link workin', but call us!) - In a shameless attempt to corner the Bagnol Rose market, I happily agreed to hoard as much of this beautiful white wine as we could get our grubbies on. While the Rose is months away, this is a little ray of sunshine in a month where we could certainly use it. Fragrant melons, white peaches and honeydew...it's like a glass of hand-squeezed fruit goodness with laser acids. In short, a white of the highest order with the most reasonable of prices.

NV DeMeric Champagne Brut "Catherine de Medici" Cuvee Prestige Ay Grand Cru MAGNUM - Wanna be a baller, shotcaller, brawler? Of course you do, and nothing gives you pimp status like killer bubbles in a big sexy bottle. This amazing wine from DeMeric is a blend that is rarely made and is comprised of only the best vintages, in this case 1995 and 1996. So fine and pedigreed, this elegant wine sneaks up on you with bits of apple pie, caramel, pear, brioche and creme brulee. Seriously, if you care at all about Champagne, you have to have one of these; they are extremely limited as only 60 bottles made it in the US.

As an aside to the last wine, I was fortunate enough to enjoy the aforementioned magnum of Champagne on Tuesday night at Brooklyn Fare Kitchen , featuring the genius of Chef Cesar Ramirez. It's a very difficult reservation but if you have the opportunity (and schedule flexibility) you will be treated to something truly magical. I will talk more about this place in a subsequent post, but in short, it was the greatest meal I have ever had, period. No doubt and nothing even comes close.

Holla!

JCB the 4th

The Off Day

2010-02-14T20:18:00.000-05:00

While I've always waxed on and on about the blazing gut-busting pace of these trips, there usually is an "off" day of sorts. It is typically Sunday, as it is the one day where most producers could care less that you are available and care more about rest and family time. With the amount of work these artisans have to perform over the course of the year, you can't blame them.

But this Sunday marked a visit to Pouilly-Fuisse. We made the 90 minute drive to the Macon and, amazingly, I forgot to bring my Blackberry, which to me is akin to forgetting to breathe. That rarity aside, honestly, I didn't love the wines...and it's not because I had just been filled to the gills with Puligny Montrachet for the previous four days. To me, they were slightly heavy handed, lacking a bit of precision and personality. And you might have noticed by now that I haven't mentioned the producer. He's young and I think the wines have potential, so I'll choose to not rain on them and hope to try again in the future.

Upon exiting the Macon, we took the long route back to Puligny and toured a few sites along the way driving through St. Aubin, St. Romain (the worst terroir in ALL of Burgundy, seriously someone should just bulldoze it!) and Aloxe Corton finally ending up in Meursault. A trek to the Caveau de Chassagne yielded a couple nice finds that were later to be consumed on the trip. Finally, we ended up at the Caveau de Puligny, with proprietor Julien Wallerand opening some astounding wines, served blind of course, for us...

2007 Henri Boillot Pulingy Montrachet Clos de la Mouchere 1er cru
1999 Domaine Leflaive Puligny Montrachet Les Pucelles 1er cru
2001 Domaine Leflaive Chevalier Montrachet Grand Cru

Now that is what I call an aperitif!

Dinner at Hotel Le Montrachet with Rose & Pascal Maillard, Didier Larue and Julien Wallerand yielded the following beauties, all served blind...

NV Meilly Champagne Brut Magnum
2006 Domaine Larue Puligny Montrachet Le Trezin
2007 Marc Colin Chassagne Montrachet Le Caillerets 1er cru Magnum
2001 Domaine Leflaive Batard Montrachet Grand Cru
1992 Domaine Larue Blagny Rouge Sous le Puits 1er cru
2007 Domaine Maillard Pommard
1990 Domaine de Montille Volnay Taillepieds
1999 Meo Camuzet Vosne Romanee Les Chaumes

Lots of great discussion ensued about the wines...Was the bubbly a touch oxidized? Is this Vosne Romanee? Was the Montille in good (my camp) or great shape? But without question, the singular greatest memory of the nights wines will be the 1992 Blagny, an unheralded vintage and an unheralded appellation, this wine was one that would rock you to your core, leaving you feeling that you don't know as much as you thought about the potential of greatness of wine. The wine was lyrical, profound and devastating. Sigh...

Quite the Off Day.

JCB the 4th

The Midas Touch

2010-02-10T10:22:00.000-05:00

I'm fed up...

Corks are becoming more and more of a problem from my perspective. It seems like every week I open a couple bottles that are infected with TCA (2,4,6-trichloroanisole), a filthy little wine killer that renders the wines bereft of fruit, boxy, skunky and frickin' gross. It only takes a few parts per million of the bacteria to be present in a wine to be assessed by super-tasters (of which I'm not one) and just a bit more than that to be noticed by everyone. To those of you who think you've never experienced a corked bottle of wine, I can almost guarantee that you have. Have you ever bought a case of your favorite wine and loved the first bottle, second bottle, third bottle and then the fourth bottle just doesn't taste right? Bingo, you just had one!

It has gotten to the point that Tim (our store manager) has proclaimed me the Cork Monster, because of my proclivity for having a "Midas touch", just laying my hands upon a bottle and having it end up corked. Of course, this is not true, but I do seem to open up more of them than I should. Unlucky, I suppose. Apparently, estimates are that about 5-8% of all wines are infected. Seems a shade low to me...

So what can we do about it? Nothing really, but I am firmly in favor of bottling all wines meant for near-term consumption in either Stelvin closure (screwcaps) or my absolute favorite, the glass stopper. The glass stopper is super-sexy, air-tight, can be replaced with ease and doesn't have the negative "cheapo" connotation that Stelvins have. And don't get me started on fake corks, as they are just awful. Seriously, cork isn't going anywhere anytime soon. And honestly, I can't imagine opening up a classic, aged iconic wine and simply turning my wrist and hearing a crack. But if one is going to drink it now, why the hell not? Here are a few of my favorite extremely high quality wines that are under Stelvin or glass stopper...

2008 Robert Sinskey Abraxas White Blend - Rob Sinskey is my hero and this crispy white is the first American wine I've seen under glass stopper. Gotta love a guy who rips out all his Chardonnay (which he sold successfully) to plant Pinot Blanc, Riesling, Gewurztraminer and Pinot Gris...and make an even better wine to boot!

2007 Alzinger Gruner Veltliner Muhlpoint Federspiel - The precision of Alzinger wines become clearly evident when the freshness is captured under Stelvin, as this beautiful 2007 is. It's so crispy you can almost crunch it in your mouth. A real beauty!

2006 Terra Burdigala Manoir du Gravoux Cotes de Castillon - Although the New World is leading the charge for alternative closures, the savvy Frenchman, Francois Thienpont realizes that this juicy Merlot/Cabernet Franc blend is made to drink young. So why not use the screwcap and avoid the issues with cork.

JCB the 4th

Speaking the Language of Gevrey

2010-02-05T08:11:00.000-05:00

The following morning, it was time to take our leave of the Cotes de Beaune and head north. For a meeting with the wines of the great Phillipe Roty of Domaine Joseph Roty was to be our breakfast. Wouldn't you love to have Gevrey Chambertin as a mouthwash?

Pulling up to the gates, I could actually feel myself getting anxious, like when you're a kid about to ask a girl to dance for the first time. Lots of nerves firing, but in the best, most vital and life-affirming way. Phillipe greeted us with a wide smile and in an attempt to sound more French than American, I gave my best "Bon jour, Phillipe!" Of course, my obligatory next question is always, "Parlez-vous Anglais?" to which Phillipe gave a little smirk and replied no. Last year, Phillipe's brother, Pierre-Jean (pictured at the gates with yours truly), ran me through the wines with a good smattering of English and I had no problem piecing together every bit of info. Thankfully, the MW's French was far more acute than mine on this day as he did a great job of acting as a go-between.

I think I can speak for Chris here (mainly because we discussed it ad nauseum) in saying that we both are desperately in love with these wines. They are the absolute, undeniable truth to the question that is Gevrey Chambertin. As a set, it is the most successful collection of reds that I've tasted from the 2007 vintage and was absolutely my favorite stop on the trip. It rocked me when I put these wines into the context of vintage. The purity is astounding...

We shuffled into a garage filled with barrels and was lead through a sliding door to a tiny room filled cases of Roty on broken palates. Phillipe but a bucket on the floor and began opening 1/2 bottles of the following wines...

2007 Bourgogne Blanc

2007 Marsannay Blanc

2007 Marsannay Rose

2007 Bourgogne Rouge Cuvee de Pressonier

2007 Marsannay

2007 Phillipe Roty Marsannay Quartier

2007 Phillipe Roty Marsannay Champs St. Etienne

2007 Marsannay Ouzelois

2007 Phillipe Roty Cotes de Nuits Villages

2007 Gevrey Chambertin

2007 Gevrey Chambertin Champs Chenys

2007 Phillipe Roty Gevrey Chambertin Champs Chenys Vielles Vignes

2007 Gevrey Chambertin Les Fontenys 1er cru

At this point, I was nearly dizzy with the greatness that I was experiencing, but after slightly clearing my head, I noticed Phillipe was about to pour for us his magnificent Grand Cru's, Mazi-Chambertin and the crown jewel, Charmes Chambertin Tres Vielles Vignes. I asked Phillipe if it was possible to try the Gevrey Chambertin La Brunelle (its a favorite of our store manager, Tim) first before proceeding. Phillipe thought for a moment, gave a quick "Oui" and left the room. He soon returned and asked if we would also like to taste the Grand Cru Griottes Chambertin. Chris and I looked at each other, as if rehearsed, and said in concert, "NAH!" After the laughter subsided, we delved into...

2007 Gevrey Chambertin La Brunelle

2007 Gevrey Chambertin Clos Prieur

2007 Mazi-Chambertin Grand Cru

2007 Griottes-Chambertin Grand Cru

2007 Charmes Chambertin Tres Vielles Vignes Grand Cru

We are offering our selections (an extremely difficult task as the wines across the board were that superb) for these wines on Monday. Savvy 56 clients are advised to acquire these en masse. They are truly special, ageworthy and absolutely breathtaking wines of terroir, power, finesse, sex appeal and unadulterated beauty. What more could one ask for?

JCB the 4th

Larue Like Me

2010-01-31T16:40:00.000-05:00

The very next day was a watershed day for it was my first visit to a cooperage, thanks to the brilliant forethought of Didier Larue, who was to be our next wine encounter. Despite our language barrier, I identify with Didier on multiple levels. Didier is a short man, as am I. He's thoughtful and generous, as I hope to be. He is improving every year, which is something I strive to do. We're both balding (I'd have a George Jefferson if I let it go) and we have extreme passion for the grape. See...kindred spirits.

Our visit to barrel-maker-to-the-stars, Seguin Moreau, was truly enlightening. Located in Chaigny, a stones throw from Chassagne Montrachet, this outfit makes approximately 90,000 high quality barrels every year. The process of taking wood staves and turning them into weapons of winemaking destruction is really a pleasure to view. From the shaping to the toasting to the laser engraving, watching these barrels come to life gave me a deeper connection to the wines from which they come. Very, very cool...

After the tour, we jetted over to St. Aubin to tastes the wares of Domaine Larue. I documented as much last year after tasting the 2008's from barrel, but they are the finest collection I've tasted from Larue. As always, the St. Aubin en Remilly and St. Aubin Murgers Dents des Chien are the standouts. These are 1er cru wines with supreme clarity and could certainly fool even the most experienced taster into thinking they were drinking big time Puligny. The en Remilly cuts like a knife across the palate with white fruits, thyme, crystallized ginger and cleansing, refreshing acidity. If the en Remilly is a razor's edge, then the Dents des Chien is ninjas steel. It starts off very linear and just fans out saturating the palate with citrus, clover, pain grille and baking spice. Broader, weightier, voluptuous and alluring, it is about as good as St. Aubin gets. In addition, Didier crafted two fantastic Puligny's, the Sous le Puits and the La Garenne. What an impressive showing for Didier's wines. Look for them in the Spring, as they are knockout wines.

After tasting the wines, we had a magnificent lunch in Pommard at Aupres de Cloches. Not sure if this place has a Michelin star or not, but the 6-course tasting menu we experienced was expertly prepared and melded to perfection with the wines we drank. Yeah, we drank at lunch...enough with the spitting!

2006 Domaine Larue St. Aubin Murgers Dents de Chien - MAGNUM

2002 Domaine Larue St. Aubin Murgers Dents de Chien

2003 Domaine Larue St. Aubin Sentier du Clou Rouge

1999 Domaine Ganoux Pommard Grands Epenots

I was fat and happy!

JCB the 4th

Women & The Rockstar

2010-01-27T13:44:00.001-05:00

Directly following our visit at Domaine Leflaive, we walked a few blocks to taste with Francois Carillon of Domaine Louis Carillon. Well, at least that's the name of it at present. 2010 marks a split between Francois and his brother, Jacques and each will have holdings and wines bearing their own name. Apparently, from the hap-hazard bits I could decipher, it has something to do with a woman. Shocking!

The wines of Carillon are a direct opposite of those from Domaine Leflaive. They were richer, which to me manifested itself gorgeously with the Puligny village and not so gorgeously with regard to the various 1er cru wines. They felt a bit heavy-handed in 2008 just slightly lacking cut, but there is certainly a wealth of fruit. That being said, the 2008 Carillon Bienvenue Batard Montrachet, tasted out of a tiny stainless steel tank, was the kind of stuff dreams are made of. They only make 600, er 599 1/2 bottles of this massively endowed Grand Cru that tips the scales of weight, while still seeming weightless. Expansive, wide and exuberant mango, nectarine, brioche, stones, white flowers and ripping acid cleanliness culminate with great force. An outstanding wine that only need a decade of rest to display its greatness.

As an aside, this domaine has also been bold enough to do extensive tasting of their older wines and have proclaimed that all of their wines from the mid-90's completely suck due to premature oxidation problems. They blame bad corks as the culprit and also say that the same wines out of magnum have no issues and are superb. Let's get a big bottle and test the theory, eh?

Now that two monumental visits are in the books, its time for lunch. We saunter over to Hotel Montrachet for a little refreshments, food and beverages of the typicity of the place. Meal...superb...wines...damn fine. After playing our usual blind tasting reindeer games, we finish up with a sublime cup of coffee, a perfect segue to the rendez-vous with the Vinifrance rockstar of the portfolio, Sylvain Bzikot.

I've said it before. Sylvain Bzikot would be a complete wine idol of every Burg-geek in the world if you sat them down to blind taste his wares against the greats. He's that good. Aside from that, he has an aura as large and brilliant as the sun. Despite the fact that there is a distinct linguistic disconnect when we see each other (he speaks little to no English and I know just enough French to be wrong every time I attempt to converse) we are never at a loss of understanding. Sylvan unveiled an absolutely stunning set of 2008's for us to taste after sampling his 2009's from barrel. These wines are feverish and nervy, luscious and lively, lingering and long...in a singluar word, captivating. You really can't take your mind off them for long when engaged with them as all thoughts, even ones outside of wine, take you back to the beauty in the glass. Haunting beauty...

Every wine presented was spot on. But if pressed for two to look for in the near future, seek out his 2008 Puligny Montrachet La Rouselle and his 2007 Puligny Montrachet Les Folatieres 1er cru, both arriving in a couple months. The La Rouselle marks a victorious three year battle importer/svengali, Olivier Daubresse, has had with Sylvain to bottle this special lieu-dit on its own. Formerly, blended into the village-level wine, the La Rouselle is dynamic, dreamy Puligny that could compete with any 1er cru. Crystalline mineral touches, medium bodied melon tones meld with hints of honeydew and show impeccable balance. It's amazing wine! All I have to say about Sylvain's Folatieres 1er cru is that I tasted the exact same vintage and site from Domaine Leflaive precisely 4 hours before so it was fresh in my mind. Sylvain made the better wine. Period.

JCB the 4th

Wine Diversion 2010 - The 6 Greatest Albums of All-Time

2010-01-25T17:05:00.000-05:00

For your viewing pleasure (and because I know you can't live without this knowledge) I present to you the 6 Greatest Albums of All-Time. Well, at least these are my faves...

6 - Weezer - The Red Album - Ok, so before you think this list has no credibility, give this thing a listen. These pop songs with distorted guitars are so finely crafted, dripping with oxymorons, sarcasm and just life-affirming truth. It begins with a 2 chord stomp, "Troublemaker", that toyfully plays with rockgod/B-boy swagger. "The Greatest Man That Ever Lived" is a Bohemian Rhapsody inspired touch of genius. "Heart Songs" hits home deep to me as an ode to adolescent musical inspiration and I did a lot of the nutty things in "Everybody Get Dangerous" as a kid. In my mind, Rivers Cuomo is one of my generations most under-appreciated songwriters.

5 - Jay-Z - The Blueprint - Since I've never been one to totally dismiss someone for being popular, any true fan of hip-hop can't deny that Jay-Z deserves a spot on the "Mt. Rushmore" of the art form. While he has crafted many bumpin' singles over the years, The Blueprint is his most complete work with lyrical flows that match the tremendous musical production. From the brilliant use of a Doors sample in "The Takeover" to the swingin' Timbaland-produced "Hola Hovito" to the Bobby Blues Bland-groove of "Heart of the City (Ain't No Love)" this is Jigga at not only his most lethal, but also perhaps his most poignant. Lot's of dudes can rap, but no one has the verbal skills of Jay-Z.

4 - Fishbone - Truth & Soul - This album's production may sound dated to some now, but this is the most important record that I've ever heard. It was released at a time when I wanted desparately to be in a touring band and when I saw a black kid with a bald head, a few dreadlocks aloft play a live set at City Gardens for $5 with the energy and destructive capabilities of a SCUD missle, my mind was forever changed. Once I got home and bought the CD (yes, kids, that's what we did back then) I was destroyed. Seering ska-soaked, punk-n-soul with attitude and real heart, made me listen so much I wore the CD out. The greatest band I've ever seen live, period, at their creative apex.

3 - Public Enemy - It Take A Nation Of Millions To Hold Us Back - From Chuck D's barking baritone delivery to the nonsense of Flavor Flav's antics, this is Panther Power punk. The Bomb Squad (whatever happened to these guys?) created a ground-breaking style of beats by making the track so dense that it almost sounded like cacophony incarnate but every sample has its place and is perfectly situated. Chuck's voice is so crucial in songs like "Rebel Without a Pause" "Black Steel In the Hour of Chaos" and "Night of the Living Baseheads", it's like a call to arms. I'm ready, Chuck!

2 - Sam Cooke - Live at Harlem Square (1964) - No one, and I do mean no one, has ever sang a song like Sam does. When he first came on the scene, he was a crooner in a tight suit and so clean cut. But the REAL Sam Cooke is on full display in this live performance in front of an all-Black crowd in Miami. Sam takes 'em to church with soulful, raspy renditions of his poppy singles. Listening to this you can feel the sweat in the room, you can hear the urgency in his voice and the passion of the real man. Rod Stewart has probably listened to this as much as I have as his vocal styling throughout his career is a dead-red replication of this album. Sometimes, I wish I was born back then (except for the racism and stuff) just so I could have been groovin' in the back of the room. I still, after 9 million listens, get the chills every time "Bring It On Home" breaks in. Whoa!

And in the Number One Spot!

1 - Stevie Wonder - Songs In the Key Of Life - Nothing will ever displace this album...ever. Forget for a moment that it was the soundtrack to my childhood, always playing at my home on Saturday morning when my mother was cleaning the house and still on when my father got back from the golf course. Song after song after song of greatness from the most important singular artist in my lifetime. He paints a picture more vivid that anyone despite having never seen many of the things he describes. "Village Ghetto Land", "I Wish", "Sir Duke", "Isn't She Lovely", "Knocks Me Off My Feet", "Saturn", "Ebony Eyes"...my God, there really isn't a collection of music that I've ever come across that is so completely organic, honest and filled with the reality of the human experience. To me, the greatest work of art of all-time.

I promise to get back to the Burgundy trip, pronto.

JCB the 4th

Promise (slightly) Unfulfilled...

2010-01-21T15:01:00.000-05:00

Well, I know that I told you I would be sending daily updates from the vineyards of the Cote d'Or, but alas, I never brought my computer. Why? I always have a tough time at our hotel (Le Montrachet) getting and maintaining an internet connection, so instead of lugging my burly laptop to Burgundy, I decided at the last minute to just focus on the sights, sounds and smells (oh yes, there are many) of Bourgogne and to detail as much as possible. Some of my travel companions look at me with a perplexed brow when I'm banging away on my Blackberry, but it really is an efficient tool to record every tasting, wine and dish that we enjoy. As for Tweeting, stupid T-Mobile wanted to charge me a king's ransom to tweet out the wines from France. Le Batards!

So if you read our 56 newsletter, you know that Lamy Pillot was an impressive visit that lasted from mid-afternoon to well into the evening culminating in a delcious dinner in Beaune at Le P'tite Paradis. Chris did a great job of describing the whole scene on his blog, Down to Earth Wine. The following morning, we were to see one of the most storied white wine estates of the world, the irrepressible, Domaine Leflaive...

We had a glorious tasting at Domaine Leflaive and Antoine Lepetit couldn't have been more gracious. He answered all of our questions about the processes with accuracy and thought, allowed us to sample their dynamic 2008's from tank as the are close to being bottled and even explained what "Sous le Dos d'Ane" means, their fantastic singular Meursault. "Donkey's back" is the answer as neither Chris nor I could find a good translation for the life of us before now. One surprising tidbit is that many 2008's were extremely slow to complete malo-lactic fermentation. Thus, we were unable to taste the Puligny Montrachet AC or the Puligny Montrachet Les Folatieres 1er cru. We did go Bourgogne Blanc to Grand Cru and it was really amazing!

Wines Tasted:

2008 Bourgogne Blanc
2008 Meursault Sous le Dos d'Ane 1er cru
2008 Puligny Montrachet Clavoillons 1er cru
2008 Puligny Montrachet Les Pucelles 1er cru
2008 Batard Montrachet Grand Cru
2008 Chevalier Montrachet Grand Cru

2007 Puligny Montrachet AC
2007 Puligny Montrachet Les Folatiers 1er cru
2007 Bienvenue Batard Montrachet Grand Cru

Since the 2007's will be coming to our market very soon, it was great to get a chance to taste them from bottle. All three were stunning wines in their respective category, representing the pinnacle of the Chardonnay grape. The Puligny village is not to be missed as it is wide open and classic Puligny with tropical fruits, orange peel, nuts and mocha hints. The Folatiers is always a lush and forward drinking site and the 07 is gorgeous with expansive, voluminous citrus fruit, stones, chalk, white fruits and vanilla bean. Finally, the Bienvenue is like a statuesque beauty, all regal and dressed to the nines. It jumps from the glass with melons, spice, tangerine, smoke and white corn with real class and superior length. Truly a jaw dropping tasting and a true honor to be in the hallowed halls...

Next up...Carillon, Bzikot & crazy meals!

JCB the 4th

Here We Go, Here We Go, Here We Go, Here We Go, Here We Here We Here We Go!

2010-01-06T17:19:00.000-05:00

Burgundy trip is a go, T-minus six days to liftoff. This year, the list of wineries confirmed to visit is as follows...

Domaine Bzikot, Puligny

Domaine Lamy-Pillot, Chassagne

Domaine Borgeot, Santenay

Domaine Larue, St. Aubin

Domaine Jean Michel Guillon, Gevrey

Domaine Maillard, Chorey

Domaine Albert Grivault, Meursault

Domaine Leflaive, Puligny

Domaine Joseph Roty, Gevrey

The plan at present is to document each day as best I can in the short spells of down time that we have. I also intend to bring you a little video as well (thanks Rich!) to paint the portait a touch more vividly.

To warm-up, last night I roasted various chicken parts, made a little rice pilaf and sauteed a bit of broccolini in olive oil and garlic and washed it down with the 2006 Domaine Leflaive Macon-Verze. To classify this as just Macon is akin to classifying Freddie Mercury as just a singer. It's so much greater than that (as is the late Mercury) and the only thing separating this from 1er cru is the dirt. All the tell-tale Domaine Leflaive creme brulee, citrus oil, creamy-yet-not-oaky-and-still-precise character is all there. Can't wait to see the whole operation...

JCB the 4th

Guess Who's Back?!

2010-01-03T07:07:00.000-05:00

I'm back, People!

The hiatus of Le Monstre was one part holiday hub-bub, as it is the busiest time of the year at 56. The other two parts were due to Blogspot shutting me down for a week or so, slapping this as a spamblog. What the hell? I put a few links to our business and all of sudden I'm a spammer? I am trying to make a living for cryin' out loud, but I'd like to think that there's a little more entertainment and artistry going on here than that moniker suggests. If there wasn't, you wouldn't read this more than once anyway. Believe me, no computer generated spam-bot can do it like I do. Well, maybe except for my IPod, which I referenced nearly a year ago when this blog began. My IPod is a freak. Seriously.

And she'll be put to the test in less than 10 days as I head back to Burgundy, the scene of the very first posts here. I'll do my best to give you a blow-by-blow as the tastings unfold. And as long as I don't have too much Chassagne with dinner, I'll wake up early and do just that. It's sure to be interesting this year as the focus will be the now bottled 2008's (unheralded vintage) and the in barrel (super heralded vintage) 2009's. I'm really excited to try both. Really? Excited to try 2008's? Yes, because experience has shown me that there are many jewels among vintages that the wine press officially labels as "just ok". One only need look as far back as 2006 and 2001. Both came alongside great years (2005 & 2002) and got lost in the process. 2001's are glorious wines right now and 2006 will mirror that with time. You heard it here first!

Since its been a while since we've seen each other and I've consumed too many tasty wines to give you the laundry list, here is my fave Pinot for drinking right now that I had just last night with leftovers. It's the (link provided, so sue me!) 2007 Domaine Maillard Bourgogne Rouge. This is flat-out delicious Pinot right now just drinking brilliantly. Kudus, Pascal! See you in a couple weeks!

Le Monstre's New Year's Eve Wines

1976 Josef Fries Noviander Honigberg Riesling Auslese

2002 Daniel Rion Vosne Romanee Les Beaux Monts 1er cru
2004 Vimart & Cie Champagne Brut Rose "Grand Cellier Rubis"

The l'enfant terrible is back for the 2010!

à bientôt

JCB the 4th

"Hyperactive Now I'm Grown"

2009-12-05T08:10:00.000-05:00

Want something to do tonight (Saturday) that will be wickedly entertaining? Come to Just Jakes in Montclair (30 Park St) and see me and my bandmates rip through 32 or so songs with Death Star-like precision. It's sure to be a funky good time, we're playing some new tunes and I'll probably Tweet from the stage. What could be more fun than watching a 41 year old play rock-n-soul while Tweeting about the sights?

I rest my case.

JCB the 4th

Thanksgiving Day Fraud

2009-11-30T16:23:00.001-05:00

Sadly, I was dry on Thanksgiving.

Not that it's really such a major deal, but the big wine director who made pairing suggestions to hundreds in the last couple weeks enjoyed his turkey and trimmings with...fruit punch!

A late arrival to dinner coupled with a 30+ family member gathering with lots of catching up to do left my mind not really on wine. I did have some on hand, as I asked my mother to tote 3 bottles to the dinner for me and anyone else who cared to enjoy. 3 bottles, 30 people? Have you lost your mojo, Le Monstre?

As I previously chronicled, there is not much of a wine (or any sort of imbibing) culture in my family, so I'm a bit of a renegade in that respect. On top of that, my mother forgot to bring the bottles in from her car and I wasn't in the mood to run out and get them as the food began to flow. No matter...a late night bottle of bubbly with Madame Bruce was delicious, the NV Eric Rodez Champagne Brut "Cuvee des Crayeres". It has more crisp apple tones with a chalky personality and long, lascivious finish. It's so bad, it's good.

JCB the 4th

Wine Diversion #1

2009-11-18T22:49:00.000-05:00

This is unreal live grown folks music. Enjoy!

JCB the 4th

Lyrics Hall & Oates - She’s Gone lyrics

Thanksgiving Juice

2009-11-18T08:08:00.000-05:00

Believe it or not, my family is not big on wine. I didn't grow up with parents who drank much at all and wine was never really a part of the dinner atmosphere. So when we gather for Thanksgiving, I usually bring something tasty and not terribly expensive, dare I say Cellar Defender™?

NV Michel Fonne Cremant d'Alsace Brut - A great Champagne alternative, crisp and dry Pinot Blanc with bubbles.

2007 Alain Corcia Bourgogne Chardonnay - This is delicious Chardonnay from declassified fruit from Meursault. An outstanding deal.

2008 Willi Schaefer Riesling Qba Mosel - Just enough sweetness, just enough minerals, just the right price. Bring on the yams!

2007 Domaine des Billards St. Amour - Devastatingly good Gamay, the best I've ever had. Those who poo-poo Beaujolais should taste this Cru Beaujo and prepare to be rocked!

Happy Thanksgiving!

JCB the 4th

No Respect!

2009-11-17T21:54:00.000-05:00

Can anyone explain to me why the retail wine merchant is the Rodney Dangerfield of the wine business?

I mean, ok, I get it. There are a lot of uninformed, slovenly folks out there who happen to own licenses that don't really give a hoot about wine. They lack passion, imagination and a firm understanding about the how and why wine is the magnificent, lovely and essential beverage that it is. Perfectly comfortable to just pump out wine scores and sell on the merits of other palates rather than their own, they do a disservice to the wine world as a whole. It's very irksome to ponder...

I'm often invited to lunch or dinner by our stable of distributors and importers to meet and dine with various winemakers from around the globe. It's usually at a very swank restaurant in the city and I'm always thrilled and very appreciative to attend. The first thing that I notice upon arriving is the ratio of retailers to sommeliers. It's usually in the 4 to 1 range in favor of the somms. Not sure why I care or why I even mention this but I always perceive it as a (very tiny) disrespect to the power of the educated and effective retailer. What is usually more surprising to me is that many winemakers are in love with sommeliers and having their wines on the lists of great restaurants. Don't get me wrong, a great sommelier is essential to the dining experience and some of my best friends are sommeliers. But the somms themselves feed into this also. Can't tell you how many times I've met one and upon me introducing myself they ask, "What part of the city is the restaurant?" When I mention that it's a retail store AND in NJ (another no-no) they usually try to end the conversation as soon as possible and find another somm.

It's a bit of an ego thing on the winemakers part, that much I understand. But the bottom line is unless your wine is being poured by the glass, the great restaurant might go through a couple cases of your wine in a year. A good retailer can do five (or twenty) times more than that in a day. No one goes in a restaurant and orders a case of the same wine. Would be kinda nutty to do so considering the markup.

Show a little love toward your friendly neighborhood wineshop.

JCB the 4th

Barolo Testing - 1, 2, 3...

2009-10-29T18:02:00.000-04:00

A small gathering of wine pro's gave a test drive to 2004 and 1996 Barolo last night...

2002 Domaine Leflaive Puligny Montrachet Les Clavoillons 1er cru - What the heck?! This ain't Barolo. Hell, it ain't even red! What are we supposed to start off with Cortese or Favorita? Killer wine that unfortunately could have used an hour to unwind or better yet five more years.

2004 & 1996 Marcarini Barolo Brunate
2004 & 1996 Francesco Rinaldi Barolo Brunate
2004 & 1996 Bartolo Mascarello Barolo
2004 & 1996 Guisepp Mascarello Barolo Monprivato
2004 & 1996 Giacomo Conterno Barolo Cascina Francia
2004 Roagna Barolo Vigna Rionda & 1996 Massolino Barolo Vigna Rionda
2004 Giacosa Barolo Falletto (White Label) & 1996 Giacosa Barolo Falletto (Red Label)

1995 Chateau d'Yquem Sauternes - Super yum!

Much discussion about which wine was best in the respective vintage and surprisingly there was not a clear consensus. Since this blog is my sandbox, I'll say the Bartolo Mascarello wins as the best 2004 and the Giacosa (Duh!) wins as the favorite 1996. The Giacomo Conterno wines were the best pair, although in serious need of further slumber, and were my second favorite wine in both vintages. As always, they were devastatingly good. Both wines from Rinaldi were superb, a classic producer doing the old-school strut to perfection. Finally, I've never had a wine by Masolino, but after this encounter, I desparately want to try more from them. Really lovely...

Thanks to Doug for organizing and everyone else for sharing such precious juice.

JCB the 4th

Dinner with a Vieux

2009-10-24T16:32:00.000-04:00

Francois Thienpont is about as charming as they come. Just look at him...wouldn't you want to buy wine from this guy?

Born of Belgish (is that a word?) descent, his family has graced the Bordeaux landscape since the 1920's. Purchasing the hallowed Pomerol estate, Vieux Chateau Certan, the Thienpont clan has embarked upon a singular mission to create the best they possibly can from the top-notch "terroir" to which they have at their disposal. Seems simple, and at its very core, it is...farm naturally, don't use chemicals, avoid the pitfalls the vintage tosses your way, and wait. And wait. And wait. Finally, when the vine whispers to you that the time is right, you pick the fruit by hand. You ferment the grapes with its natural yeasts, you allow malo-lactic fermentation, you rack to barrels and then you wait. Easy, right?

But there is talent involved and that talent lies in the hands of Francois' brother, Alexandre. His touch with Merlot, Cabernet Franc and Cabernet Sauvignon is feather-light, a bit of an oxymoron when referring to Bordeaux. But if Pomerol is the Burgundy of Bordeaux, then Vieux Chateau Certan is the Vosne Romanee. It's velvety and sleek, certainly the most sexy of the Right Bankers. In short, I adore the wines of VCC.

Francois came to a Grapes for Good wine dinner in his honor at Culinariane in Montclair this past week. He humbly told the tale of his family's estate, described in-depth the winemaking philosophy of his wines and showcased gorgeous examples of his wines ranging from $11 to $179 per bottle. Hell, he even helped me personally double decant all of the reds prior to service. Spilling a bit, it was refreshingly hilarious to hear a Frenchman curse in both French and English! But his wit, charm and moreover, his wares won over the group who sampled them along with the devastatingly delicious delights of Chef Ariane Duarte, my hometown culinary goddess. Many proclaimed the Yogurt Marinated Lamb Chops, Vadouvan Carrot Puree, Raita, Petit Seasons Mix and Maldon Sea Salt, the best lamb to every pass their lips. High praise from the experienced foodies in attendance...

Four wines really stood out to me that night:

2007 Charmes Goddard Cotes de Francs Blanc

2006 La Violette Cotes de Castillon

2006 Chateau Puygueraud Cotes de Francs

2006 La Gravette de Certan Pomerol - arriving in a week or so

2006 Vieux Chateau Certan Pomerol - arriving in a week or so

These wines are essential Bordeaux. Naked, honest and real...

JCB the 4th

A Throwback...

2009-10-10T12:06:00.000-04:00

Like short-shorts, the afro pick and white socks over the calf, these wines are a throwback to the good ol' days. The times when wines we're as honest and hard-working as James Brown and smooth as Dr. J gliding through the lane.

2007 Domaine Haut Cances Cotes du Rhone Villages Cairanne "Tradition" - Hard to argue with the value of this wine as I defy you to put it in your mouth blind and not think old-school Chateauneuf du Pape from a strong vintage. I know nothing of this winery (but I'll learn more before we offer it this week) and have never tasted any of their wares before yesterday. But there is no doubt that there are many wines that can satisfy, but few can tell a story as vivid as this in just one taste without some serious terroir, history and deft skills. Flat out the best Cotes du Rhone I have tasted in years, truly stunning.

2007 Lamy Pillot Chassagne Montrachet Les Caillerets 1er cru - Shining like the true star it is at a recent tasting in NYC, this Chardonnay is all about pedigree. Caillerets is for my money, the best non-Grand Cru site in Chassagne, without question. And while no one wants to give credit or much attention to Sebastien Caillat, who not only married well into the Lamy family, but also is a gifted vigneron who has a lacy touch with his wines. This is so stunning a wine that it will, to quote a friend of mine from California, "Roll yer socks up and down three times!" How can that be beat?

Both of these wine are coming in the next week, so savvy Le Monstre readers get the inside skinny, like George Gervin with the patented finger roll.

JCB the 4th

Coming Ko-rrect...

2009-09-27T13:30:00.001-04:00

While this restaurant is subject to a wide variety of opinions in the blogosphere, I just wanted to relay my thoughts as I dined at Momofuku Ko a few nights ago. Forget the sparse minimalist 12-seats, impossible reservation system that rewards those with itchy trigger fingers and super fast internet connections or even the slightly underwhelming wine list...this place is what I would open with unlimited funds and no one to answer to. Complete with a pumping soundtrack of every thing I love musically: Jay Z to Weezer to Led Zeppelin to Mos Def to James Brown, it's an unrelenting artistic endeavor. Why else would one open a micro-sized, mega-course restaurant with a food max $ intake of $2400 ($100 pp x 12 seats and two seatings) a night? Certainly not a king’s ransom in Manhattan...

But it's really about the food. Determined to live in the moment and not tweet my way through the dining experience, I didn't document each of the 10+ courses presented. But this was clearly the best meal I've ever had in NYC and pretty close to the best one ever, period. The amuse of feather light Pork Rind and an English Muffin of salty Pork fat melts in the mouth. Things like Oxtail Consommé with Caramelized Onion Ravioli, Purple Basil and Cilantro were so fine and subtle, while an intense southwestern inspired, Sweet Grilled Corn Ravioli with Chorizo, Pickled Heiloom Tomato and Scallions literally exploded with flavor. The amazing (and now famous) Lychee, Riesling Gelee, Pine Nut Brittle and shaved frozen Fois Gras just might be the best thing I’ve ever consumed despite the plate looking like a Fois Gras snowstorm. A Deep Fried Short Rib braised in Soy Sauce, Mirin and Sugar is wondrous. Blueberries with Black Pepper Crumble and Black Pepper Ganache is a sweet, savory dream.

I ordered a 375ml of 2004 Domaine Ferret Pouilly-Fuisse “Le Clos” which was delicious and drinking to perfection. I opted for the $45 corkage and brought a bottle from my cellar, 1996 Joseph Roty Gevrey Chambertin Les Fontenys 1er cru (link to the 2006 -- give it a decade and it will be just as amazing). It was showing brilliantly with loads of luscious black cherry fruit, Gevrey-spice, deep sappy cassis, and hints of animal. Phenomenal with the Short Rib…

I hope that one day I can return and despite the coolish demeanor of the guys behind the line, I’m in love. And when you’re in love, one’s slight foibles are endearing. If you are lucky enough to get in here, you’re really in for an unforgettable meal.

JCB the 4th

The Stream of Inebriation Documented

2009-09-19T11:33:00.000-04:00

I'm sure you thought the subtitle of this blog was a joke, but a few days ago, I connected electrodes to my brain to capture what flows through my head while sleeping. The results were shocking to say the least.

Almondo's Roero Arneis...best...citrus...minerally...barking dogs need to stop...White Pie with Broccoli...Michael Vick...almonds...long finish...no more barking

Oddero...dynamite...old school...my delightful Nebbiolo grape...Risotto...clown in grease paint mocking a school kid...2005 Barolo's better than 04's, possible?...kid kicks clown in groin...Sette Cucina...lovely...paybacks

Fries Riesling Auslese...rich and sweet...The Jefferson's Weezie...baked apple compote...Hogan's Hero's Col. Klink...aging forever...stones, stones, stones and acid...pork chops and applesauce...Sanford and Son's Lamont...amazing deal...Horshack

Anyone have the number of a good dream therapist?

JCB the 4th

A Haiku for That...

2009-09-11T17:31:00.000-04:00

Longing Freak of Wine
Stemware Edge to Wanting Lips
Nectar Bringing Love

Inspiration - Selosse

JCB the 4th

Angrily Staying Ahead of the Herds!

2009-09-04T11:10:00.000-04:00

I'm a little pissed and I'm comin' out swingin'!

I've documented how much I enjoy the wines of Brewer Clifton, a long time fan. My trip to Santa Barbara a couple months ago only galvanized my admiration of what Greg Brewer and Steve Clifton are accomplishing in the Santa Rita Hills. Fine, Ok, so what has my panties in a bunch? This morning, I found out that all the wines are gone. And the reason for this is the Wine Advocate gave them big scores the day before and the stampede commenced.

Liz Willette (the fantastic NY distributor) has had these wines in her warehouse for probably 6 months. They have been shown at multiple tastings and my sales rep has brought them out to taste as well. Bottom line, any retailer or restauranteur who wanted to try them since then had ample opportunity to use their own palates and buy accordingly. Instead, like the lazy lumps they are, they sit around waiting for Lord Parker to tell them what to buy and how good it is by way of a numerical figure. And once he weights in the herds descend like cattle infected with Mad Cow Disease. It makes my nuts!

Believe me, I have no axe to grind with Robert Parker. He has done way more good for the wine world than almost anyone in the last 50 years. I don't necessarily agree with his palate, but that's why they make chocolate and vanilla. It's not Parker's fault that the entire wine world hangs on his every word, to the point where winemakers are crafting wines solely to impress him. That's another rant for another day.

In summation, here is a link to the Brewer Clifton wines we have in stock, the Santa Rita Hills Chardonnay and the Santa Rita Hills Pinot Noir. Both are solid Burgundian styled efforts that I've tasted and think are special. I've calmed down now. Thanks for helping me through this...

JCB the 4th

The 56 Degree Wine Road Show - All Aboard!

2009-08-20T15:00:00.000-04:00

Enough with the vacation already! Let's get this soiree swingin'!

First of all, I have to report that tonight, Dave Powell of Torbreck Vineyards, will be joining the 56 Crew at the Pluckemin Inn in Bedminster for a super-duper Aussie Barbeque feast. It promises to be a night for the ages as we'll wash down all the superb meats from Debragga.com with Dave's supple lip-smacking wines that are always full of fruit but supremely balanced. Can't wait!

And if you've never been to one of our 56 Degree Wine dinners, you have no idea the fun you're leaving behind. Sign up for our email blasts by yours truly at 56 Degree Wine.com and enter the world of wine wonder, Master of Wine-style. Which leads me to a preview of what is to come this fall, so that those of you savvy enough to read this blog get a sneak peek and first dibs on attending.

I hatched an idea of the 56 Degree Wine Road Show a few months ago. Essentially, we'll do wine dinners at select destination restaurants outside our area with various themes and differing pricepoints. Some will be top-end and some will be ultra-casual. But I guarantee that all of them will be phenomenal experiences.

The first stop on the Road Show will be at DeLorenzo's Tomato Pies in Robbinsville, NJ on Sunday September 27th, 2009. This place is legendary in NJ as having the best tomato pies (calling it pizza is sacrilege) in the world. The original DeLorenzo's is still alive and kickin' on Hudson Street in Trenton, where it has resided since 1947. It's so entrenched in the fabric of Chambersburg that this is probably the only restaurant in the state with no bathroom. No lie, they were grandfathered in! This place serves only tomato pies and soda. No menu, no restroom and if you try to order a pie with pineapple, they'll probably kick you right out on your butt! This is old-school, hand crafted tomato pies at their best and freshest, featuring wafer thin crust that is the stuff dreams are made of. Since I didn't think we could do a wine dinner in a place with no toilet, we'll host this at the new Robbinsville location, owned by Sam Amico, the grandson of Chick DeLorenzo. Sam has fantastic salads on the menu, continues to make the family recipe tomato pies and...even has his and hers johns! The best part is that we'll be able to do this casual wine dinner for a song, enjoying the pies and sipping on Dolcetto, Barbera and Sangiovese. Mark your calendar!

I'll have more heads up info on the 56 Degree Wine Road Show very soon.

JCB the 4th

Hiatus!

2009-08-03T23:14:00.000-04:00

Le Monstre is on vacation this week. Won't be much wine, but should be lots of fun and some truly memorable experiences with all my loved ones...

See you in a week.

JCB the 4th

Big Glass of Hater-ade...I mean, Bordeaux, Please!

2009-07-25T18:06:00.000-04:00

I never fell in love with Bordeaux...

Back when I was just a wine lovin' fool, I took a class at the WSET (Wine & Spirits Education Trust) in New York City. While listening to my instructor extol the virtues of fine Bordeaux, I raised my hand and made some smart-alack remark about how Bordeaux wasn't the end-all, be-all of wine. My teacher shot back something to the effect, "If one doesn't understand and adore Bordeaux, one could never truly be an expert in this field." Despite my internal temperature starting to peak, I shut my mouth. My early feeling was that Bordeaux couldn't shine Burgundies shoes and I was darn happy that everyone else loved it except me. Less people grasping at Beaune meant I would have an easier time getting my hands on it.

But I have softened my stance...at least a little. Time and experience (as well as very generous friends and colleagues) have offered me tastes of mind altering wines from Bordeaux, 1st Growths and little satellite wines alike. To me, there are two kinds of people in the world, Bordeaux people and Burgundy people. Bordeaux is regal; it's the grand-daddy of them all. I can respect that even though there definitely seems to be a "type" to the personality of a Bordeaux lover. You guys like big things...Cabernet, tannins, tooth-staining and mouth-coating wines. I completely get it! It's seductive as hell...I like to think of myself as a Burgundy guy. We're a little geeky, sorta pensive and like to speak in over-flowery language like the wine poets we are, waxing on about terroir and the soil differences between Vosne Romanee Les Beaux Monts vs. Vosne Romanee Les Malconsorts. Also Burgundy guys tend to be a bit more immediate-gratification types. Bordeaux is damn-near undrinkable in its youth (or is it...read below) and requires 10-20 years of patience before one can experience the nirvana of Margaux. Hell, I'm a spry 40, but I don't know if I've got the stick-to-it-iveness to wait these suckers out.

And then I run across a wine like the 2004 Chateau Pape Clement Pessac-Leognan, a surpirsingly drinkable and absolutely delicious blend of Merlot and Cabernet Sauvignon. Despite being so lovable currently, this will no doubt turn into a swan in 15 years as well because of the plethora of black fruit, dark chocolate, cassis and melted licorice notes propped up by plush tannins. This wine struck me so deeply that my faith in Bordeaux has been restored, renewed and recharged. It's funny how wines can do that to you, even when you least expect it.

JCB the 4th

The Simple Things in Wine...

2009-07-21T17:45:00.000-04:00

I got a call from my friend today thanking me for a gift I gave to him. It was a bottle of (no link, there's none left) 2008 Ameztoi Txacolina "Rubentis", a tasty Rose wine from the Basque area of Spain that I spoke about a month or so ago on this blog. He opened it with some wine loving friends and apparently everyone thoroughly enjoyed it. I gave the bottle to him as a huge "merci beaucoup" for supplying the wine and food for the aforementioned Sunday Night Debauchery listed below. Mind you, this is a guy with one of the most amazing cellars I've ever seen, filled with extremely well selected "best of the best" Old World classics. That night we probably plowed through a few thousand bucks worth of unreal juice; such a great education I received. Why in the world would JCB the 4th think that a proper offering would be a $23 bottle of Rose Txacolina?

Because there is bespoke beauty in the simplicity of wine, the things that move one's soul. It's not ratings...it's not who's is bigger. It's the right wine for the right meal with the right crowd and the fit is exacting and precise. It's like the perfect riff', so basic at its core and refreshingly pure.

Wine is quite a wonder to behold if you can allow your mind to accept all it is...

JCB the 4th

Sunday Night Debauchery

2009-07-15T11:31:00.000-04:00

My good friend and wine biz associate, Doug, invited me to his gorgeous home for a night of sheer wine masochism. No photos to protect all involved but witness this gory mess...

1985 Krug
1995 Billecart Salmon Cuvee Nicolas Francois Billecart
1991 Coche Dury Meursault Perrieres
2004 Roagna Barolo Vigna Rionda
2004 Giacosa Barolo Falleto (white label)
1992 Niellon Batard Montrachet
1992 Ramonet Batard Montrachet
1993 Rousseau Chambertin
1993 Bachelet Charmes Chambertin
2006 Rene Rostaing Cote Rotie Cote Blonde
1990 Giacosa Barolo Collina Rionda (red label) - corked - like a stake thru the heart!
1978 Rayas Chateauneuf du Pape
1988 Henri Bonneau Chateauneuf du Pape Reserve de Celestins
2002 Neveu Sancerre Vielles Vignes
1999 Berthet Bondet Jura Chateau Chalon
1989 Huet Vouvray Cuvee Constance
1995 Dal Forno Nattare Passito

And a Cuban...the only misstep of the night.

Thank you, kind Sir!

JCB the 4th

Love From Wall Street...

2009-07-14T15:46:00.000-04:00

Big shout out to the folks at the Wall Street Journal for recognizing out little shop this weekend. In a question about temperature control, they referenced 56 as a champion of all things chilly. We appreciate the love...

Below is my newsletter to our clients about the article and why we freeze our butts off at 56...

TEMPERATURE RULES! ASK THE WALL ST. JOURNAL...

Despite the name of the store, sometimes folks come in shocked at the temperature. "How can you stand it in here?” the common question heard. Quite honestly, we care more about your wine than we do our own comfort. It's that important. Just take a look at the recent Wall Street Journal article by Dorothy J. Gaiter and John Brecher, where they tackle the question of storage temperature and champion our store as a place to get perfectly stored wine. They explain superbly what we've know for quite a while; temperature is of paramount importance. So critical that we staked our name on it.

The bad things that happen to wine occur at breakneck speed when the temperature rises. Produce is kept cool at the supermarket and during transport so the food stays fresh and allows the natural flavors to shine. Wine is no different. We want to provide you with the brilliant flavors the winemaker coaxed from the fruit that was naturally and carefully harvested. And while we have many offerings that are rarities, we care just as much about the storage of the $12 white from the Touraine.

We'll gladly suffer for our winemakers art and your pleasure.

Cheers!

Joe Bembry
Director of Wine

JCB the 4th

Ronchi di Cialla - The Best Italian Whites, IMHO...

2009-07-08T16:44:00.000-04:00

Picture late May and you’ve just come off a 10 hour connected flight horror show, piled 7 adults in a mini-van and drove an hour to Friuli. After multiple tastings, you wander hungry and exhausted back in the van. Finally, you drive up a dusty, windy hill that opens up into a plateau with a gorgeous garden surrounding a 15th century home with vines of Ribolla Gialla, Picolit, Verduzzo, Scioppetino and Refosco in full bloom. This is the oasis known as Ronchi di Cialla, the best of crus in Friuli and home to the most memorable white wines I’ve ever tasted from Italy, period.

The Rapuzzi family has owned the property for 45 years and Paolo Rapuzzi relentlessly holds on to the traditions of the area. His staunch stance on only using indigenous varietals is about more than money. It’s about history…and it was history that he made when he “rescued” the Scioppetino grape from extinction. He was given an award by the Italian government for doing so in 1975. Legendary, yes, but how are the wines?

Amazing…just take a sniff and swirl of these wines and you’ll be in love. They are unique, extremely food friendly and age effortlessly (I tasted back to 1997 at the winery) continuing to gain depth and intrigue. They are superb blends of Ribolla Gialla, Verduzzo and Picolit.

2007 Cialla Bianco – One year in bottle and one in barrel give this the tools to display its waxy white fruits, almond and lemon drop tones. Long finishing and young with a vibrant tangerine note in the resolution. $38

2004 Cialla Bianco – More developed nose and palate with briny tones, white fruits, spice cake, floral honeysuckle notes and hints of apricot. This is a dynamite wine with white asparagus risotto, as I can personally attest. $52

1999 Cialla Bianco – Outstanding aromas of vital white fruits, this seems to have barely aged a bit. Very fresh fruit cocktail, clover honey, melons, macadamia, and sea salt. Like breathing in fresh ocean air, this is what wine dreams are made of…miraculous length and freshness. Wow! $65

These wines are great, period...end of story!

JCB the 4th

20 Seconds Away from Wine...

2009-07-08T16:20:00.000-04:00

The final stroke has been played and Jay-Beezee is the 2009 Mercer County Match Play Champion 2nd Flight. A long winded title for a minor achievement that was none-the-less extremely satisfying. Not only because I dusted off a 16 year old flat belly phenom 5 & 4 (five holes up with four holes to play, for you non-golfers) but also because my father was there to witness the carnage in the final match. Pictured at left, showing perfect form at Trump National last year, he even was giving my brother in Los Angeles text message updates during the match...erroneously, I might add. Once I got up by 4 holes, he began to fib about what was going on; relaying things like my opponent holed from the bunker to close the gap, just made a string of birdies, 50 foot putts and other miraculous, big fat whopping lies. See, I told you he was diabolical!

But it really was a thrill to accomplish the feat and a treat to have him see it. 20 seconds is up now, back to wine, so read above...

JCB the 4th

Today's Best

2009-07-02T16:46:00.000-04:00

Look out for the new vintage of Seis de Azul y Garanza, the best selling wine in the history of 56. The 2006 version can be found HERE and while there are a couple cases left of it, the 2007 will be arriving shortly and it is devastating. There is just a little more of everything, juicy ripe dark berries, complex coffee tones, heady aromatics and supple tannins. This might be one that will age a bit as well for those who like things a bit more mature. But for those seeking sex appeal, I can't think of a better burger candidate than this right now, perfect for the holiday weekend. Fire up the grill, make mine medium rare, and don't forget the cheddar!

As an aside, there is a little wine by the same producer called Abril de Azul y Garanza that is done in cement tank and is a cheap, juicy dynamo. Look for that in September...

Just landing today is THE white of the week, a minerally yet luscious Gruner Veltliner that goes by the name KALMUCK. It is a Federspiel (think Kabinett if this was Germany) but its bone dry with beautiful weight, crispy white fruits and just a measly 12.5% alc. Could it be the perfect wine? Well, it's darned close because it's just $16.50 and that makes it one to load in the trunk by the case.

Friday night is staff holiday party night. So much Txacolina, Cialla Bianco and Chateauneuf we'll feel it coming out of our pores Saturday morning!

JCB the 4th

Wildin' out on the West Coast...

2009-06-25T14:12:00.000-04:00

The delay in posts stems from a short jaunt I made to Vegas, Santa Barbara and Los Angeles. Short in the respect that it was 3 places in four days, but long in the fact that I took planes, (air) trains and automobiles to accomplish the journey.

Las Vegas was...well...Las Vegas. I won't go into what went on, as like the commercial states, it stays there. But I did have a very good meal at Bouchon in the Venetian's Venezia Tower. This Thomas Keller run restaurant showcased wonderful dishes like Salade de Poulpe, marinated octopus and flageolet bean salad with parsley vinaigrette and garlic toast. It went superbly with the 2007 William Fevre Chablis AC, showcasing all the steely, taut citrus fruit. Moving on to Gigot d'Agneau, a roasted leg of lamb with ratatoille and sweet garlic jus, I opted for a magnificent, albeit outrageously priced 2007 A. Clape Cotes du Rhone. Gloriously fragrant and delicious Syrah from the Northern Rhone that really shouldn't be $90 on a list. It's freakin' COTES du RHONE!! Actually, if you poured it in a glass for me and asked if I'd think it was worth it, I'd say "Hell yeah!" as it's that good. But what is this world coming to when Cotes du Rhone is $90? A rhetorical question that I wish I never asked. I sound like an old man who walked to school everyday...5 miles...uphill...both ways...in a snowstorm.

After leaving Vegas, the journey led to Santa Barbara where a meeting with the great Greg Brewer of Brewer Clifton and Diatom was on the docket. I've always been a fan of their wines, even purchasing a bunch on my own dime back in the day. Greg is a thinker, a generous soul and a guy who seems fairly unfazed by his fame in the world of wine. Tasting his 2008 Diatom Chardonnay Babcock Vineyard showed just how wonderful California Chardonnay can be when unfettered by oak. Citrusy, tangerine-toned, bright and sunshiny, this wine keeps the emphasis squarely on the fruit as he uses 6% new wood with the rest older oak. The freshness of the wine is really impressive. We will be receiving a small amount of this wine very shortly, so get some while you can. We followed up with tank samples of the not yet bottled Brewer Clifton Chardonnays (the Santa Rita Hills and the Gnesa were my favorites) and finished with the Santa Rita Hills Pinot Noir (fragrant cherry and green tea), Melville Vineyard Pinot Noir (amazing spicy, Gevrey reminiscent wine that's locked, loaded and needing cellaring) and Mount Carmel Pinot Noir (lush and sexy, juicy and ripe black fruit). An astoundingly fantastic tasting and I thank Greg for his patience and generosity!

Finally, Los Angeles, where my brother resides, has never been my cup of tea. It's like a bunch of sprawled out communities with no real grit. I mean, where are the city blocks, the subways, the flavor? How can you love a place that never rains, never gets cold, has earth quakes and Kobe Bryant? But there is a charm to Santa Monica and after a good burrito and margarita at Lula's, we had dinner at Chaya in Venice. A fun and loud spot that has lousy service, but solid food and one wine by the glass that rocked, the 2008 Claude Branger Muscadet Sevre et Maine Sur Lie "Le Gras Moutons". Briny, spiny and shiny, this is tasty quaffing wine with Peruvian Salmon Ceviche with Red Onion, White Corn and Chili Lime Sauce as well as Lobster Enchiladas with Cilantro Cream Sauce.

East Coast represent...

JCB the 4th

60 Seconds Away from Wine

2009-06-17T14:46:00.000-04:00

Yes, Le Monstre du Vin does more than wine and music. I have two other passions, the first of which I'll reveal now...

I have been a golfer ever since going to college. My father, who is the smartest and most steady person I ever met, diabolically introduced me to the game as a young kid. I don't know if I should thank him or flip him the bird. For after all these years of bashing balls, spending money, traveling to courses all over the country and incessantly seeking a golf ideal (the perfect round) that really doesn't exist, I have finally come to peace with the game. Golf has a way of exposing your every facet. It's a game based on honor. The rules and etiquette involved are revered, as well they should be. In what other sport do you call penalties on yourself? Have you ever seen an NBA player that actually thought they EVER committed a foul?

Bad rounds of golf used to kill me. I'd take that sinking feeling with me off the course and often let it affect my life outside the links. These days, I'm so busy with work, fatherhood, family issues, musical endeavors and just generally living, that I rarely get that upset by golf. It's the fun diversion that it should be unless your name is Tiger. I'm proud to say this new outlook has manifested itself in my reaching the Finals in the Mercer County Match Play event, by winning my match this morning 2 & 1. Since I have been enjoying just playing, I've actually been playing better and having more fun in the process. Don't get me wrong, I'm still extremely competitive and want to beat your brains out on the course. But it doesn't rule or define me. Le Monstre just might be growing up after all.

Since this should have taken you less than 60 seconds to read (unless you read slow like me), I'd like to get back to wine for just a second. A couple days ago, I had the 2007 Lamblin Bourgogne Chardonnay, a super tasty white from declassified Chablis vines. It was so lovable and so cheap, just another re-affirmation of the value spectrum and how fantastic wines can still be made for a song. So tasty with Chinese food from Sesame in Montclair on Sunday night.

JCB the 4th

Battle Royale...The Sweet Science of Wine Pairing & Transformation

2009-06-13T12:10:00.000-04:00

I've always thought that wine and food make music when they come together. Sometimes it's raucous, sometimes it's serene and sometimes it's profound, ponderous. But there is almost always a difference between having wine (and assessing it) on its own vs. with a complimentary meal. I was reminded of this just a couple of days ago, while speaking to a group of corporate clients at the Pluckemin Inn on Thursday. It got me to thinkin'...

I walked everyone through a comparative tasting of classic French and Italian wines. My idea was to keep it real, as in true, indigenous varietals made in the traditional fashion. No pumped up, micro-oxygenated, cone-spun, water added, over-extracted, tuti-frutti, Johnny-Come-Lately's allowed! We began with a delicious Champagne, NV Gatinois Champagne Brut Ay Grand Cru , which was superb with its toasty, zippy, copper-tinged Petit Pinot d'Ay fruit. We stayed with that wine through the amuse and then dived into two whites from 2007, the fantastic Ronchi di Cialla Colli Orientali del Friuli "Cialla Bianco" and the Domaine Bzikot Puligny Montrachet AC. Right out of the box the Bzikot was all pedigree, minerals and definition, the way more exuberent wine. On the surface it didn't seem like a fair fight, like sticking me in the ring with Lennox Lewis. But I'm scrappy, and so is the Ronchi di Cialla, so with a bit of air time AND the dish presented (Scallops, White Eggplant Puree & Riviera sauce) which had just a hint of honey character, Ronchi transformed like a pheonix and made music. It was tremendous! And like the true champion, the Bzikot put on a brilliant display as well, but slight nod to the underdog.

Next up, we gave Piemonte a chance to bump heads with Burgundy as we pitted the 2001 Scarzello Barolo Vigna Merenda against the 2002 Domaine des Chezeaux Chambolle Musigny Les Charmes 1er cru. Ah, now there's a match of heavyweights! Decanting the Barolo for 2 hours prior gave it the early lead in aromatics and presence, but never underestimate Laurent Ponsot's accumen. And never underestimate Chambolle Les Charmes ability to allow the flavors of Organic Zucchini Risotto, Parmesan, Roasted Quail & Squash Blossom Tempura to envelope your senses. The Barolo actually was amazing on its own, but when the food arrived, I longed for red meat or maybe a veal chop. The Chezeaux was magic with the dish as its delicate fragrance yet deep and penetrating black cherry fruit soared.

In the final Smackdown, we aimed to create a deathmatch of the quintessential regions of each country, Bordeaux and Brunello di Montalcino. 2005 La Gravette de Certan Pomerol was pitted against the 2003 Collemattoni Brunello di Montalcino. Once again, the Bordeaux was decanted 2 hours prior giving it excellent pronounced aromas of blackberry, plums, spice and graphite. The Collemattoni is the best 2003 Brunello I have tasted (after sampling scores of disappointments) and it showed like the supremely balanced wine it is on that night. When the cooked-to-perfection Roasted Lamb, Extra Virgin Olive Oil, Crushed Spring Potatoes, Favas & Young Onion arrived, I was hard pressed to decide which was better. But what a difference with the food. The earthy, gamy tones of each wine came to the fore and the fruit seemed to explode with vibrancy. Just the ever-so-slight advantage to the Pomerol, despite my Bordeaux bias against, it was other-worldy stuff, only in need of another decade of cellaring.

The Pluckemin Inn rocked it out once again, and with the battle over and the blood drawn, I was left with just one thought...

What's for dessert? Professional Pig, at your service!

JCB the 4th

Intruder ALERT! A Visit to Riecine...

2009-06-10T16:24:00.000-04:00

Sometimes its tough for an outsider to be welcomed with open arms. Such is the case with one particular Tuscan estate with a rich storied history that I visited last month called Riecine. Savvy 56 clients know the name Riecine as makers of ultra-fine Chianti Classico. But it is the work of Sri Lankan-born, Londoner Sean O'Callaghan, who made the move to Riecine in 1991 after finishing his studies in Germany, that has really set them apart. He was not exactly greeted to resounding applause by the Tuscan natives upon his arrival, leery of an "outsider" coming to the great Chianti Classico region. Were they worried he would tarnish the "straw flask" ideal that has done so much to "uplift" Chianti in the past? But his emphasis on the classic approach to vinifying Sangiovese, organic farming and now bio-dynamic practices, has won over just about everyone who ever comes in contact with his wines.

I was lucky to visit the estate last month and even luckier that the birthday party they had for Sean at the winery the night before left him still upright. A slightly hungover, but none-the-less charming and accommodating, Sean, showed us his wares in the cellar as we tasted barrel samples of some upcoming vintages. Later, we retired to a local restaurant, Badia a Coltibuono, for a serious test run of the 2007 Chianti Classico, the 2005 Chianti Classico Riserva and a special treat, of 2005 & 1994 Riecine La Gioia, a Super Tuscan-like Sangiovese based wine that is aged for 2 years in older and new barriques. The 2007 Chianti Classico is elegance personified. All of the roundness one could hope for juxtaposed with the acid tension that makes Sangiovese so alluring. The 2005 Chianti Classico Riserva ramps up the intensity without screaming, sorta like listening to Toto's Africa through super high-quality speakers and gently rolling the volume knob. There is a superb depth of fruit and spiced wild berries, smoke and white pepper with superior length.

Finally, the La Gioia is a Tuscan dream wine. The 2005 version was stunning; the wine reminding me of great encounters I've had with top vintages of Flaccianello or Cepparello. Powerfully made and structured for the long haul, this young wine struts out of the glass with brash, brazen black fruit, plums, raspberry and spice, leather and tobacco. Finally the 1994 La Gioia was seductive, self-assured and sultry...lots of lovely dark fruit, truffles, incense, pomegranate, pan drippings and aged balsamic notes melding in harmony. Very long finishing and a lustful, guilty pleasure, I hope like hell that we can get some of this in the near future as it's tremendous, aged wine.

Alas, the visit had to come to an end. And all intruders eventually return home. But maybe if you live in the fruits of the area long enough, you can create your own reality and subsequently, find a space in the world that is new and uniquely yours. I think Sean has done just that.

JCB the 4th

Fresh As a Daisy...

2009-06-07T12:26:00.000-04:00

It's time, people!

As I stare out into the parking lot of the U.S. Post Office in Bernardsville, NJ 07924, the solar glow shines through the window of my corner office. It's a little ray of sunshine to a space that's not very sexy. If you'd ever had a chance to see my desk with various printed wine propaganda strewn about, you'd know what I mean. Certainly it's clutter, but it's my clutter...and I know just where to find whatever I need.

But this beam of hope and warmth can only mean one thing...Rose is a must. Just the thought of that copper colored elixir cuppled with the radiating rays brings joy to my mind. Any worry-some thoughts shrink and one's ability to expand the possibilities available increases. Sheesh, it's just good shit!

My favorites this summer are the 2008 Robert Sinskey Vin Gris Los Carneros , a California Rose of Pinot Noir from vines that quite honestly could be making amazing Pinot. For Rob, this wine is a labor of love, a triumph for the palate and probably a bit of a headache. Everyone wants more than the supply provides and you can't please all. They don't even have it still at the winery. I feel very fortunate to be able to get a modest amount of this. True story, a gentlemen came to our store yesterday from Manasquan (a good hour and 15 minutes away) just for Vin Gris. It's so good, it'll make you do unusual things just to get it. Scary, eh?

For value, the 2008 La Ferme Saint Pierre Cotes du Ventoux "Cuvee Juliette" Rose can't be beat. It's all Grenache (used to think it was Syrah...misinformation) and so lively and fresh with that deliciously mineral thirstquenchability that is a requirement for me with Rose wines. I love to slug this back while I'm doing my cooking and sometimes there isn't enough left for the meal. Be careful though, as this isn't 8% alc a la Riesling. But it's so refreshing that it's hard to hold back. Just look at that label...so rosy it's making me nuts!

Real men drink pink.

JCB the 4th

The Top 5 Grubs in Italia

2009-05-30T15:07:00.000-04:00

Sorry for the delay in posts, but I've been abroad, soaking up Italia on a whirlwind romp that had me in six regions in six days...

If it seems I've been waxing on and on over Italy, I have. Every time I run across a new Italian find, I have a new favorite wine of the moment. I don't know why Italy is striking a chord with me at present, but my recent journey to Italia from top to bottom has only fed into my Jones. Let's leave wine to the side for the moment to focus on the five best Italian dishes EVER (or at least that I consumed while there)!

1 - Risotto at Trattoria Al Parco - Paolo Meroi is not only the owner of his eponymous winery in Friuli, but he and his wife have a phenomenal restaurant called Trattoria Al Parco in Buttrio. The only wines served are his, where apparently 80% of the wine is sold. His simple Risotto with a local herb was life changing. I have never had (nor probably ever will) another Risotto done with such skill. A testament to the simple approach and the perfection of cooking to the proper doneness. The best dish, bar none.

2 - Carne Cruda at Gillardi's Home - Giacolino Gillardi's mother made us a magnificent lunch capped off with the best version I ever had of Carne Cruda. Raw meat mixed with a few simple spices and drizzled with Extra Virgin Olive Oil. Seems easy, right? This is one raw food movement that I can actually get behind. My God, unbelievable...

3 - Fried Stuffed Zuchini Flowers at Carpe Diem - In Piana di Monte Verda, serious back-water Campania, we had what I can only describe as an appetizer filled with cheese infused crack cocaine! Impossible to stop eating them and amazing with a particular white from Pellagrello Bianco by Alois called "Caiati". The chef has promised to come to Bernardsville and recreate the experience for our clients. If he doesn't, I will hunt him down!

4 - Pasta all'Amatriciana at Casale del Giglio - This is a classic, rustic Lazio dish that was a magnificent foil to their Satrico Bianco, but I might prefer it with a lighter red, even Nebbiolo perhaps. I got 5 things for you...Olive Oil, Short Rigatoni, Sausage, Guanciale (pig jowl) and Pecorino Romana. That's it! Amazingly simple and astoundingly good. Even I can do this one, if I can ever find Guanciale in NJ...

5 - Pasta alla Patate at Carpe Diem - (In a cheesy DJ voice) "Carpe Diem checking in with 2 dishes in our top five countdown, this is Enrico Battisti's favorite thing in the world to eat." He even went in the kitchen to help and he didn't screw it up. This is Mac-n-Cheese for adults, little bits of potato and layers of flavor. This chef rocks and I wish I could remember his name. But if you ever find yourself in Piana di Monte Verda, you must go to Carpe Diem. And then head for Rome pronto...

More on the wines to come, as they will be arriving soon. The first of which will hit next week as we'll uncover some gems of Friuli from Ronchi di Cialla, one of the most gorgeous estates I have ever seen, period.

JCB the 4th

The Best Down the Gullet This Week...

2009-05-09T12:42:00.000-04:00

These were remarkable and consumed this week...

Didier Larue came to our store this week with the intention of showcasing his gorgeous wares from St. Aubin and Puligny. Indeed they were stunning; none moreso than the flashy 2006 and 1999 Murgers des Dents de Chiens 1er cru . It was a case study on young and older White Burgundy, showing the classic hallmarks of each wine in its respective evolutionary stage. Those prefering younger, more vibrant wine would gravitate to the 2006, as it was just so precocious and showy. The 1999 was boisterous aromatically but really showed what an aged St. Aubin is all about on the palate. Lots of glycerine, tangerine tones and plenty of terroir. $50 and $57 respectively make them a steal for 1er cru wines of their stature.

What can I say? I can't get enough of the 2008 Ameztoi "Rubentis" Getaraiko Txacolina . Unfortunately, this is one of those rare wines that is just $23...and allocated! Crazy, but they just don't make much of this deliciously crisp, minerally and vibrant Rose Txacoli. We've got about 3 cases of it left. Let's see if you can beat me to them as I'm out of the office the next couple days. You ready, set, GO!

Want a great way to encounter gastrono-oenologic bliss in NYC. Head over to Txikito in Chelsea on 9th Ave between 24th and 25th Sts, for a true Basque experience. The small plates are delectible with my favorite being the Piperrak (pictured), flash fried Basque peppers sprinkled with sea salt. Every once and while you'll get one that will set your mouth ablaze. A little rolling of the gastronomic dice, perhaps? You'll need a bottle of lovely Txacoli to wash it down. They pour the wine in the traditional method with the bartender holding the tumblers low and the bottle overhead. Great wine theatre! Who cares if his hair is reminiscent of A Flock of Seagulls circa 1983?

JCB the 4th

Vintage, Vintage, Vintage...I Want My Vintage!

2009-05-08T12:20:00.001-04:00

Ok, I'm going to go out on a limb, here. Vintage ain't all its cracked up to be...

Now before you click off this blog, never to return again, let me expand upon the notion a bit. My opinion is that vintage is important, as the laws of terroir tell us that climate factors are crucial to grape development and the resulting wines. But I think that our American pysche of "only the best will do" can betray us at times. If one becomes consumed with only the best vintages, you will miss out on magnificence to the 10th degree in the form of an underdog. I can't tell you how many times I've tasted great (yes, great) wines from supposed "off-vintages". They just needed some time to come around, like those high school movies where the geeky girl becomes the bombshell.

Here's how it works in the world of wine...

Wine experts, in the form of the press, travel and taste, as well as talk to the producers to hear about the new vintage. These are all good things! Hell, I try to do as much of it as possible to understand what is in the bottle and why it tastes the way it does. But somewhere along the line, the word gets out on the greatness or not-so-greatness of a vintage, in general terms. A broad brush paints everyone's mind who hears about it and that's that. But wines change and evolve from barrel to bottle. And no one likes to go back and say that they might be wrong about a vintage characterization. So that pervasive notion remains...it's a shame.

But what is wrong with a wine that is not from a great vintage? If it is still pleasing to drink and enjoy, why not do just that? It would be a boring wine world if every vintage was great, even if every wine I drank was great. There is a profoundness in the differences that can tell the story of a family's passion. Maybe about the trials and tribulations associated with the challenges to make a good wine when nature threw curve balls in the dirt. I love that.

JCB the 4th

Love in a Clear Bottle Heads the List...

2009-04-30T11:02:00.000-04:00

Liquid love in a clear bottle was consumed a few days ago in the form of 2007 Aveleda Vinho Verde Grinalda Reserva, a seriously delicious wine for the heat that just recently broke. At a non-mind boggling 11.5% alc, I damn near killed this one off on my own. Just really refreshing Louiero, Trajadura and Alvarinho from a winery with a long history that is cheap and lovely, one of my favorite combinations. Perfection with tilapia simply prepared with a squeeze of lemon...

Ahh, now that the reds from Joseph Roty have hit, what more can I say about the 2006 Joseph Roty Bourgogne Cuvee de Pressonier, it has exceeded my expectations from tasting it at the cellars of Roty in January. The vines are located in Gevrey Chambertin; part of them village level and part Bourgogne. But this is about as tasty a bottle of value Gevrey (it really drinks like village) you'll see and its a perfect indicator of just how good the 2006 reds are. If you don't buy some 2006 Red Burgs, you may be kicking yourself down the road...same as those who poo-poo'd the 2001 vintage. I won't discuss the other reds from Roty, as I don't want anyone buying them. There ain't much left and I sleep better at night knowing that they are still here!

JCB the 4th

A Digression..

2009-04-28T17:39:00.000-04:00

Just a quick post to say that I made my debut on guitar this past weekend. Despite performing on stage as a vocalist for 20 (that's right, I said 20 for those not familiar with "Rock-n-Roll Joe") years, I haven't felt nerves like this since I first became a man at the not so tender age of 16. Talk about performance anxiety!

The show went off without a hitch, or at least that is the report that I have been given. And while my performance at 16 was way, way shorter, this one was pretty gratifying. I took guitar lessons as a 12 year old for about a year. But when my teacher insisted on showing me scales rather than how to play "Strutter" from Kiss, my enthusiasm waned. Fast forward to this past January and I made myself three tiny resolutions for the new year: learn French, drink more Italian reds this year (check) and pick up the guitar. Since my 11 year old son, Isaiah, has been playing for a year and a half now, I have been inspired to do the same. Every time he'd came over, I'd pick up his guitar and noodle around. In February, I bought a Fender Telecaster (Burgundy colored of course) and started hacking away. And now "Crazy Little Thing Called Love" will always have a special place in my heart. Just like that first time...

JCB the 4th

Viva Italia! - The "Grown Folks Zone"

2009-04-23T13:00:00.000-04:00

Without question, the one place in the world of wine that use to mean nothing to me was the wines of Italy. I'll chalk it up to one part ignorance, and two parts immaturity. While I'm still pretty immature in some ways, (like my love for peanut butter & jelly sandwiches on wheat bread) when it comes to Italian wines, I have come into the "grown folks zone". By that, I mean the period when you wise up, and learn that its not all about T & A. And that a little age isn't necessarily a bad thing. Kinda like the difference between Justin Timberlake "Sexy Back" and Marvin Gaye's "Let's Get It On". Need I say more?

Italian wines always struck me as hard and fruit-less when I was a littler in the wine world. These days, I drink them more than wines from any other country and that includes my beloved France or more specifically, Burgundy. The value can be staggering. I'm in love with little Dolcetto's with pizza, Barbera's with pork and Chianti Classico with Bolognese. And let's not forget the whites, like Verdicchio and Pigato, San Zuan and Vermentino, perfect for quaffing and superb with seafood. In the land of a thousand grapes, the list is endless.

Sometimes patience is required for the more noble wines like Barolo and Brunello to come into their own. But isn't that what being a "grown folk" is all about? Wisdom, patience, knowledge, understanding...

Dim the lights, and let's put on some Marvin, cook up some pasta and open a bottle of Bonarda from Oltrepo Pavese. Who says getting older isn't fun?

JCB the 4th

Sweatin' the Small Stuff

2009-04-12T22:17:00.000-04:00

Happy Easter! My apologies for the long delay between posts. Life intervenes times a slight malaise equals no output. Which brings us to this holiday thought...

I try to make it a point of never forgetting about the inexpensive wine. If you are a 56 devotee,(which I hope you are if you're reading this) you know we call these Cellar Defenders. It describes the wine equivelent of a "defense" against constantly raiding ones cellar and consuming all the collectibles at breakneck speed. I am often guilty of not having Cellar Defenders handy, but sometimes it's a joy to be "forced" into opening something special at a not-so-special moment. It can make a night.

So as I enjoyed my Easter dinner at my fathers house, without wine, I returned to my Montclair lair and opened a bottle of 2005 Chateau Lauriol Cotes de Francs made by the Stephane Derononcourt and the Thienpont family of Vieux Chateau Certan and Le Pin fame. This wine is so delicious, that it re-affirms my faith in inexpensive wine. Not that my faith has ever waivered but everyone needs afirmation. God bless drinkable, juicy Bordeaux that is less than $20. So drinkable that it doesn't even require food right now. It's that lovable.

I went to dinner at Culinariane in Montclair on Thursday Night with one of our clients. I brought a 1996 Marquis d'Angerville Volnay Les Taillepieds 1er cru that was about as pure a wine as you'll ever encounter. I was in ecstasy. I'm getting NEARLY as much joy from this little Cotes de Francs tonight. The former wine is about $100 and the latter is $19.50. Value is alive and well people! Ya gotta just know where to look.

JCB the 4th

Need Further Proof? Please Meet Bert...

2009-03-20T17:06:00.000-04:00

In the very first post of my blog, I documented the psychic abilities of my Ipod. For lack of a better name, let's call him Bert. I dunno why, it just seems to fit. Like a laser beam from a starship, his intuition to selecting musical accompaniment to wines is uncanny. Bert knows when to show restraint, when to pounce and when to surf the middle ground like a champion. So it was with great anticipation that I put Bert through the paces at an industry tasting this week. The excitement was fevered!

I entered Cru, a bastion of colossal wines with equally colossal prices as it was the site of the Liz Willette tasting. Liz is a wonderful lady and I'm told her company began when one of her best friends married Jean Louis Chave. Talk about being in the right place at the right time. Regardless, her palate and stable of producers are very fine indeed. I walked up to my sales rep and personal wine god, Doug, to sample a bit of White Burgundy. While the wines didn't "wow" me at first, I did notice Bert shift into overdrive as I sipped the Vincent Mothe Chablis Bougros Grand Cru, diving into Queen's "Barcelona". Of course, it would be an obvious choice for something from Catalan... a Priorat perhaps, but the majesty of Freddie Mercury and the layers the musical tapestry create are perfection with Grand Cru Chablis. Yes, I sense this will be a good day.

Sliding over to Kellen Lignier, the now winemaker/proprietor of Lucie et Auguste Lignier, I delved into a few offerings of the domaine, and some with a bit of bottle age. Like clockwork, Bert changed the game with Jay-Z's "30 Something". Let's face it...thirty's the new 20 and 40 is definitely the new 30. This 40 yr old still feels vibrant, just like Kellen's 2002 Gevrey Chambertin. Smokin'!

One more pitstop at the Champagne table brought new jams. The NV Le Brun Servenay Brut Selection was mesmerizing and sassy, so I felt Bert's selection of Kelis' "Milkshake" an intriguing choice. An enticing bubbly for an enticing song...just makes you wanna go nuts. And I think that was his intention all along, that rascal!

JCB the 4th

I'm Jazzed About...

2009-03-14T16:34:00.000-04:00

These have all been tasted in the last few days and are wicked good, hella-tasty and stupid-fresh!

2004 Kientzler Riesling Gaisberg Grand Cru - We haven't seen hide nor hare of this wine in over a year and I'm yearning for the measly 3 cases to arrive next week. Riddiculously wonderful Alsatian Riesling that is textured, fine and precise.

2006 Yves Cuilleron Condrieu "Vertige" - Someone told me that Cuilleron's Condrieu Vertige is oaky. I beg to differ. This wine is lithe and mineral and really doesn't display a trace of oak. It's so long on the palate, it could block Kobe Bryant driving through the lane. A dynamic, soaring Viognier that is a great wine, period! I adored it.

2007 Vaona Valpolicella Classico - You pour this into a glass and think its light color is going to lead to a thin, flavorless wine. Nothing could be further from the truth. Opened and consumed over 3 days (I know, shameful...I'm sorry) this is Pinot Noir-ish in its ethereal-ness. Just gets better with more air. This can't be beat for just $17.

2004 Ada Nada Barbaresco "Elisa" - Can someone please not buy all of this so fast? I didn't even get a bottle of the 2001! Superb Nebbiolo in the most classic sense with all the rusticity I love and just enough ripe, forward fruit to satisfy those with a more New World palate. An absolute steal for $42! 56 followers, this offering is coming on Monday.

1998 Joseph Roty Gevrey Chambertin La Brunelle - If there is something more beautiful than ready to drink, perfectly aged Burgundy, I suppose I have not really lived up until this point. Soft fragrant, strawberry, spice, saddle leather, incense and love. Sorry, we sold out of this eons ago but the good news is the 2006's are coming in April (I tasted them all at Roty's cellars) and with a little patience, they'll be as divine as this 1998. Lovely wine and thanks for opening it, Nita!

Drink something good this weekend, people...

JCB the 4th

Pha-Pha-Phooey! The Problem with Wine Ratings...

2009-03-13T12:26:00.000-04:00

Shout out to Howard, one of my heroes...

Ah, wine ratings, they make the whole wine world go round. Or do they?

There is no denying the power and influence of the wine press on the drinking habits of the populus. The Honorable Chris Cree tells us that there was once a time when wine merchants tasted and bought what they liked, and didn't have to purchase a palate of shlock to get a case of something highly regarded. Must have been before I was born. I recall a distributor telling me that unfortunately, in order to have the "privilige" of purchasing some fairly well regarded Burgundies, I would need to order 10 cases of a $100 per bottle California Cabernet that is quite honestly, pedestrian at best. I wonder if that hard working Burgundian farmer knows that is the way the game is played in NJ?

But back to the numbers. No doubt that if one lived in a non-cosmopolitan area where pickins are slim, a guide to what is good in wine can be helpful. I also can appreciate Robert Parker's palate. While very different from my own, his is consistently accurate in the sense that the wines he loves have a common thread and if you like the style, he's an excellent barometer. My problem lies with wine merchants who are either inexperienced, under-educated or just flat out too damn lazy to get out there and decide for themselves. When did wine shops just decide to hang a WS 94 on the shelf and sell based solely on that, having never tasted the wine at all? When and in what other business can you know nothing at all about the product you sell? How about that same wine that got 94 points in the previous example the following year gets 89? Let's see how easy it is to sell it now! Unless we're talking about Bordeaux en primeur, the price ain't going down. Why would the customer buy it for the same price or more when it's obviously an inferior product to the previous vintage? Or maybe it's not inferior but just different. Another rant on that subject at a later date...

Folks, wine is not a sport. It never has been and it never should be. We just don't keep score. Can you imagine an art conversation like, "Well, Sherman, the Mona Lisa is clearly a 99 pointer while Whistler's Mother is merely just a 93!" Crazy, right? Wine is truly an agricultural product that is an art form with no equal on earth. It is a beverage that rightfully so, is the compliment to a meal that offers the person enjoying it to fine tune and elevate the food and the wine through the symbiotic pairing. Wine can lift your spirits and it can transcend your mood. My favorite nights to open a great bottle are never holidays, birthdays or special occasions. I much prefer to decide to prepare something simple but flavorful on a Tuesday, open one singular great bottle, and let that and the food be the "Starlet Johanssen" of the evening. Sexy, right?

Please leave the point scoring to LeBron and leave the artistry to the artisans. Thanks.

JCB the 4th

Gettin' High on Your Own Supply...

2009-03-04T18:07:00.000-05:00

No, I ain't talkin' about a Cheech & Chong moment. Quite honestly, that practice has never done a thing for me. Like my man Slick Willie Clinton, I only did it once and I didn't inhale. And yes, it was because of a girl when I was a youngin'. Sadly, like Slick Willie, "Ah did not have sexual relations with that woman!" The best laid plans...

What this is about is "What I'm drinking Lately", a frequent topic of discussion on my favorite wine chat board VinoCellar.com, started many years ago by a good friend of mine. Essentially, folks list all the great, awful and so-so wines they have tasted of late. Many like to rate them with scores (my harsh views on that topic upcoming) but most list what they drank and if it was ready or not. I drink many wines that we sell at 56 Degree Wine and you can always tell my favorite wines, by what I list at VinoCellar. Actually, the wines that I choose to cellar myself in my modest (by-wineguy-terms) 300 bottle collection are most often my absolute favorites from tastings. A recent raid of my wine fridge the last few weeks yielded these great results...

2007 Donnhoff Oberhauser Leistenberg Riesling Kabinett

2005 Jean Garaudet Monthelie

2006 Joseph Voillot Volnay Champans 1er cru

Each one was fantastic!

I try to do my best to squirrel away a few bottles of stuff here and there when my budget will allow it. But it is hard to watch all these great bottles of wine come into your "house" and then watch them go to other happy homes. A good wine buddy of mine once remarked, "You're so lucky! You get to touch all bottles that come in the store." But the first rule is "Don't get high on your own supply". Or else you will be broke with a kickin' collection of wine.

I can think of worse things.

JCB the 4th

Sinskey Is My Homeboy...

2009-02-26T14:05:00.000-05:00

This photo is about more than a goofy tag line. It is a mock-up of a t-shirt I was going to have made to give to my girl, who is a #1 fan of the Vin Gris, a gorgeous rose of Pinot Noir made by Sinskey. It's flat out sexy wine, from its flute-shaped bottle to its pale, pink-tangerine hue. It just makes any summer night one to remember. Rob Sinskey is an icon to me; a man who blazes the path of organic wine grape growing and is now engrossed in bio-dynamics. His emphasis is deliciousness and balance, in that order. How can one not look up to a guy who ripped out all his Chardonnay to plant Pinot Blanc, Riesling, Pinot Gris and Gewurztraminer?

I happened to be fortunate enough to score an invite by Rob and Maria Sinskey to Hearth, the ultimate homey, comfort food mecca in New York City, this past Tuesday evening. The name of the event was Rob Sinskey's Electric P No Acid Test, a comparative tasting of Pinot Noir with great food in three flights containing four wines per flight, all wines from the 2005 vintage. In each quad grouping, there would be two Burgundies, one "cult" (this notion of cult wines makes me throw up a bit in my mouth) domestic Pinot and one made by Sinskey. As Rob explained, he didn't want anyone to necessarily score or rank the wines, but rather get the input of this talented group on terroir and acidity. We were left to the task of figuring out where each one was from. Over-generalizing, the end result was the "culty" wines stuck out like the steroid-sized behemoths they are, the Sinskey wines were ripe, balanced and juicy and the Burgundies were comme ci, comme ca, a hard statement to make for a hard-core Burg-nut. Some (Gouges Nuits St. Georges Clos Porrets St. Georges and Vincent Girardin Volnay les Caillerets) being sultry and wide open while others were shut down and locked up.

With a little bit of self-congratulation, I must admit that I went 12 for 12 in identifying the place of origin, even recognizing the Sinskey wines apart from the big-boy New World Pinots. In years past, a tasting like this with a roomful of gifted sommeliers and winemakers would have made me nervous to give my opinion out loud, lest I screw up. I knew they would go back to their respective restaurants and wineries saying, "Man, I just went to this event with a guy from 56 Degree Wine and jeez, was he clueless!" But maybe I've garnered enough experience (or I just don't give a damn!) to be more comfortable in these situations. So much so, that I began to get a bit cocky, leaning toward Rob at one point saying, "Congratulations, on Wine #1 in the second flight. It's delicious!" Luckily, it was his Vandal Vineyard Pinot and it was magnificent. Just so I don't leave you with the impression that I can identify any wine with a sniff and a swirl, my Burgundy trip blind tastings in January probably left me batting about .200 in terms of guessing the place. And I had the benefit of knowing they were all Burgundies. Straddling the Mendoza line is as bad in baseball as it is in wine.

Back to the drawing board...

JCB the 4th

Dark Faces in Wine Places...

2009-02-23T20:00:00.000-05:00

Why aren't there more black folks in wine?

We'll I'm here, although my whole life I have rarely been pegged as an African American, except by African-Americans. There's nothing more disturbing than having someone say something extremely racist in your presence since they don't think there are any of "those" people around. Used to happen to me fairly regularly as a kid, not so much as an adult. Skeeves me out just thinking back to the time, but I digress...

Set aside the socio-economic arguments, one would think that in 2009 the wine world would have at least a representative number of black wine professionals, but it's still a rarity from my viewpoint. Growing up, my parents didn't drink wine in any way, shape or form, so there was no precedence for my wine rearing. That may be a major reason why we don't see many people of color in the wine world, but there are, for instance, professional black hockey players. Don't know it for a fact but I'd bet their parents didn't grow up on skates. Here are a few wine professionals I know of...

Ruben Morancy - This gentleman is single-handedly responsible for my career. A Haitian man who speaks at least 5 languages fluently, he forced me to drink my first red wine against my will when I only would consume oaky Chardonnay. He then gave me an expensive, rare bottle of wine (1991 Dominus) to make sure I was completely drawn in to the passion of the grape. He's currently starting his own distribution company in California. Ruben, I owe you everything. Best of luck with the new company!

David Brown - I met David Brown of Brown Estate many years ago when I was just a wine fan at their home. I was just thrilled to see that an African American family owned vineyards in Napa. Then I tasted the wines and was equally thrilled by what was in the glass. I haven't tasted them in a while, so I should request some samples.

I met Andre Mac, the former sommelier at Per Se in New York City, once at an industry tasting at the restaurant. Seemed like a nice guy. I understand he's looking to make wine on his own. I wish him success. I also met quite a character, Mac MacDonald, of Vision Cellars recently as he visited us at 56 Degree Wine. He's a larger-than-life individual and his wines are a mirror image of his personality.

That's about it. Bummer.

JCB the 4th

Best of the Week - Feb 20th, 2009

2009-02-20T14:36:00.001-05:00

A quick run down on the most notable wines I tasted this week...

2007 Georges Vernay Cotes du Rhone Sainte Agathe - This is gorgeous Syrah from vines around Condrieu. Really fragrant and a good barometer of how fantastic the 2007 vintage is in the Northern Rhone.

2006 Porter Creek Pinot Noir Fiona Hill Vineyard - Alex Davis really coaxes the true varietal character of Pinot Noir from this organic and biodynamically farmed site. Really impressive...

These are a couple that are arriving shortly...

2004 Ada Nada Barbaresco Elisa - Good lord, as good as the 2001 was (which we sold out of in a blink) this 2004 is so luscious, with the fruit more primary and prominent. We wanted more 2001 but I'm tickled that we're getting some 2004.

2006 Hirsch Vineyards Pinot Noir Sonomoa Coast - A deeply concentrated Pinot Noir that really has all the bells and whistles. Jasmine Hirsch came to visit and her family home vineyard site has superb terroir that any Pinot fan would enjoy.

The following were tasted via the generosity of one of my suppliers and good friend (Thanks DS)..

1988 Krug Brut
1990 Comtes Lafon Meursault Charmes 1er cru
1990 Domaine Leflaive Chevalier Montrachet Grand Cru
1990 Domaine de Montille Pommard Pezerolles 1er cru
1990 Marquis d'Angerville Volnay Clos des Ducs 1er cru
1990 Dujac Clos de la Roche Grand Cru
1990 Armand Rousseau Chambertin Clos de Beze Grand Cru
1990 Quinterelli Recioto della Valpolicella

Life...is...beautiful

JCB the 4th

So You Wanna Be International like Jay Beezee, eh?

2009-02-20T13:11:00.000-05:00

Believe me, (and no one does) it's not easy being a professional pig. Everyone says, "Ohh, tough job you have there, jetting around the world, drinking wine everyday, eating in great restaurants constantly. Where do I sign up for that?" Well, all I can say is, "Be careful what you wish for."

Do I love my job? Absolutely!

Would I trade it for any other profession? No way, Jose! Unless I can be a professional golfer or poker-pro, but they've got drawbacks too.

So what is so difficult about what you do? Well, ya got a minute...

No one wants to hear me whine and I swore this blog would be a no whining zone, but here goes nothing. If one wants to be a true connoisseur of gluttony, you better have the constitution for a day like this....

7am - Wake up

7:45 - Breakfast in lobby of hotel. Usually the local goodies, croissant, cafe noir, yogurt and pain. If in Spain, maybe a little cortado and tortilla. If in Italy, stick to a great coffee and a less stellar croissant. They suck at breakfast.

8:15 - Drive to vineyard

8:45 - Arrive at vineyard. Oh and I forgot to mention that we always travel in January/February. The producers have time, the importers have $ and we are slower during those months making it easier to block the time. So suffice it to say that it's freezin' ass cold out.

9am - Walk the vineyards.
10am - View the winery (yes, that was one hour in the cold)

10:15 - See the cellar and taste barrel samples. Sometimes up to 40 samples, many times the same wine from differing tanks and casks. Often they are in the middle of malolactic fermentation, so it's like having a little bacterial science project going on in your stomach, even though you're spitting every drop.

11:30 - Lunch -- oh, not just a little sandwich, but a spread of 4-6 courses over a 3 1/2 hour span so you can test drive the producers wines with food, quite honestly, the way they should be. It's the way the end user (you) will enjoy them so you want to see how these puppies perform.

3:30 - Drive to next vineyard

4:30pm - Arrive at vineyard and stand outside for another hour among the vines, see the winery, taste another 40 or so samples and arrive at...

7:30pm - Dinner. Where you will indulge at somewhere between a great local haunt to a gorgeous Michelin starred restaurant. The food is always outstanding. So much so that it is often difficult to stop eating until all 6 plates presented are clean. Don't forget the cheese course and dessert. The best meals are those at producers homes when you get a great classic home cooked meal of an indigenous nature. Often there will be back vintages of the producers best to enjoy as almost all of them are a generous lot. One caveat, if this is Spain you must shift two hours ahead. The Spanish refuse to eat before 10pm, but they do take a siesta, those cheaters!

11:30pm - Head to hotel
12:30am - Back in hotel room.

Sounds fun, right! Ok, now go back to the 7am part and repeat this schedule for six to nine days in a row and then roll (and I do mean roll) yourself to the airport, fly back home and make the adjustment to eating like a normal human being. This sound like vacation, but if I'm a bit tired on day 3, I can't say, "I'm gonna skip Domaine Du-du today and catch up with you guys tomorrow." I owe it to my boss, the importers and the producers to be "on" at all times and give the attention to them and their wines that they deserve for providing me with these experiences that I can in turn share with clients and paint a picture that's as vivid and vivacious as the people who make these great wines.

Don't forget that there are three tasting appointments on the day of your return to the shop.

Yeah, booyyee!

JCB the 4th

The Super-Intelligence of My Ipod in Puligny Montrachet

2009-02-15T18:07:00.000-05:00

I made my third journey to Burgundy this January and just as last year, I traveled with the most engaging, Juan Prieto and one of my wine idols, Olivier Daubresse. The generosity of these two men and their excellent stable of producers is unparalleled. Msr. Daubresse is one of the most articulate palates I have come across in all my wine years. It's always a learning experience.

On the morning of January 15th, after 4 days of complete culinary and oenological debauchery, I decided to not let myself turn completely into a veal and ventured out for an early morning walk amongst the vines. We were staying in the Hotel Montrachet, located in the center of the thriving, metropolis that is Puligny with its population of 400. I set my Ipod on shuffle, bundled up as best I could and got to steppin'. The first song my genius of a machine chose was Deacon Blues by Steely Dan. It was a wise selection: stark, pensive and smoky. Just as the burning of the vine shoots filled the air with the sweetest smells. I walked up the Routes des Grand Cru, swiftly passing by Bienvenue and Batard Montrachet on my left. As if by magic, as soon as I entered the site, the song changed to Sam Cooke's "A Change Is Gonna Come". The song is so emotional, and Sam's voice (my favorite vocalist of all-time) is so laced with soul, the music so majestic. It captures the essence of why Grand Cru is Grand Cru and 1er cru wines, as great as they are, don't have the emotion, soul and majesty of the Grand Cru's.

I made a right turn and breezed past Les Pucelles, shimmying up the hillside to Les Folatieres. The vineyard is steep as hell, you really don't get the feel until you stand at the bottom and look up. My ipod was on it! Shifting gears to the the raucous jam, "B.O.B. (Bombs Over Bahgdad)" by Outkast. The lyrics come at you in a rapid-fire succession of layers, just as the resulting wines from Folatieres slap you with layers of fruit, then minerals, then (differing) fruit and minerals until they fade off into the distance. Sampling Sylvan Bzikot's gorgeous 2006 Puligny Montrachet Les Folatieres just two days prior left me with that dancing across the palate sensation. It's stupendous!

Finally descending down, I walked past La Garenne toward Les Combettes, a 1er cru site that to me always brings fatness tempered by excellent cut. What would be next? Sir Mix-a-Lot's "Baby Got Back"? Too obvious, as my ipod is nothing if not clever beyond imagination. Much more imagination and intelligence than I, as evidenced by this lovely photo I had to take myself at arm's length, too ignorant to figure out how to make it shoot with a timer. Yes, my ipod went for the jugular with Nirvana's fuzz-infused "In Bloom". The guitar work by the late Kurt Cobain creates a wall of sound that still has definition and precision, just like Combettes. Absolutely frightening!

At this point I don't know if I should just drop this freakin' thing and run back to Puligny screaming for the villagers to gather and burn my ipod at the stake, like the witch it is. I decide against it lest they look at me like the maniac that would think of such a thing and do what I suggested to me instead. Oh how the mind wanders when left on its own devices.

This final photo is of the gate of Les Combettes, notable because of the bottle of the french equivalent of "Two Buck Chuck" strewn at the base of this hallowed site. While I would consider this tantamount to drawing a mustache on Whistler's Mother, obviously some local was just looking for a good spot to catch a buzz? Or maybe it's like "Lover's Lane" for the Pulignese? Sheesh!

JCB the 4th

"Feels Like The First Time..."

2009-02-15T17:54:00.000-05:00

And it is. I'm not much for reading blogs as I had always fancied it a waste of what is precious. Lord knows there is enough blathering on at Facebook and the other devices of predators. But I'm here to set the whole world ablaze with my views on wine first, and life, second. I can feel your excitement as I finish typing this sentence. I'm pumped myself!

That being said, I have no idea what makes an interesting blog so this will be a work-in-progress. My intention is to update regularly, not daily. I'd like to think that I have a little bit of a life going on here. Yet like the Foriegner song...

"I have waited a lifetime,
Spent my time so foolishly,
But now that Ive found you
Together well make history"

Music will play a major role here as I'm a bit of a pseudo-singer myself. So let's begin with the tale of how my ipod is smarter than yours.

Truly,

JCB the 4th