Speaking the Language of Gevrey

The following morning, it was time to take our leave of the Cotes de Beaune and head north. For a meeting with the wines of the great Phillipe Roty of Domaine Joseph Roty was to be our breakfast. Wouldn't you love to have Gevrey Chambertin as a mouthwash?

Pulling up to the gates, I could actually feel myself getting anxious, like when you're a kid about to ask a girl to dance for the first time. Lots of nerves firing, but in the best, most vital and life-affirming way. Phillipe greeted us with a wide smile and in an attempt to sound more French than American, I gave my best "Bon jour, Phillipe!" Of course, my obligatory next question is always, "Parlez-vous Anglais?" to which Phillipe gave a little smirk and replied no. Last year, Phillipe's brother, Pierre-Jean (pictured at the gates with yours truly), ran me through the wines with a good smattering of English and I had no problem piecing together every bit of info. Thankfully, the MW's French was far more acute than mine on this day as he did a great job of acting as a go-between.

I think I can speak for Chris here (mainly because we discussed it ad nauseum) in saying that we both are desperately in love with these wines. They are the absolute, undeniable truth to the question that is Gevrey Chambertin. As a set, it is the most successful collection of reds that I've tasted from the 2007 vintage and was absolutely my favorite stop on the trip. It rocked me when I put these wines into the context of vintage. The purity is astounding...

We shuffled into a garage filled with barrels and was lead through a sliding door to a tiny room filled cases of Roty on broken palates. Phillipe but a bucket on the floor and began opening 1/2 bottles of the following wines...

2007 Bourgogne Blanc

2007 Marsannay Blanc

2007 Marsannay Rose

2007 Bourgogne Rouge Cuvee de Pressonier

2007 Marsannay

2007 Phillipe Roty Marsannay Quartier

2007 Phillipe Roty Marsannay Champs St. Etienne

2007 Marsannay Ouzelois

2007 Phillipe Roty Cotes de Nuits Villages

2007 Gevrey Chambertin

2007 Gevrey Chambertin Champs Chenys

2007 Phillipe Roty Gevrey Chambertin Champs Chenys Vielles Vignes

2007 Gevrey Chambertin Les Fontenys 1er cru

At this point, I was nearly dizzy with the greatness that I was experiencing, but after slightly clearing my head, I noticed Phillipe was about to pour for us his magnificent Grand Cru's, Mazi-Chambertin and the crown jewel, Charmes Chambertin Tres Vielles Vignes. I asked Phillipe if it was possible to try the Gevrey Chambertin La Brunelle (its a favorite of our store manager, Tim) first before proceeding. Phillipe thought for a moment, gave a quick "Oui" and left the room. He soon returned and asked if we would also like to taste the Grand Cru Griottes Chambertin. Chris and I looked at each other, as if rehearsed, and said in concert, "NAH!" After the laughter subsided, we delved into...

2007 Gevrey Chambertin La Brunelle

2007 Gevrey Chambertin Clos Prieur

2007 Mazi-Chambertin Grand Cru

2007 Griottes-Chambertin Grand Cru

2007 Charmes Chambertin Tres Vielles Vignes Grand Cru

We are offering our selections (an extremely difficult task as the wines across the board were that superb) for these wines on Monday. Savvy 56 clients are advised to acquire these en masse. They are truly special, ageworthy and absolutely breathtaking wines of terroir, power, finesse, sex appeal and unadulterated beauty. What more could one ask for?

JCB the 4th

Larue Like Me

The very next day was a watershed day for it was my first visit to a cooperage, thanks to the brilliant forethought of Didier Larue, who was to be our next wine encounter. Despite our language barrier, I identify with Didier on multiple levels. Didier is a short man, as am I. He's thoughtful and generous, as I hope to be. He is improving every year, which is something I strive to do. We're both balding (I'd have a George Jefferson if I let it go) and we have extreme passion for the grape. See...kindred spirits.

Our visit to barrel-maker-to-the-stars, Seguin Moreau, was truly enlightening. Located in Chaigny, a stones throw from Chassagne Montrachet, this outfit makes approximately 90,000 high quality barrels every year. The process of taking wood staves and turning them into weapons of winemaking destruction is really a pleasure to view. From the shaping to the toasting to the laser engraving, watching these barrels come to life gave me a deeper connection to the wines from which they come. Very, very cool...

After the tour, we jetted over to St. Aubin to tastes the wares of Domaine Larue. I documented as much last year after tasting the 2008's from barrel, but they are the finest collection I've tasted from Larue. As always, the St. Aubin en Remilly and St. Aubin Murgers Dents des Chien are the standouts. These are 1er cru wines with supreme clarity and could certainly fool even the most experienced taster into thinking they were drinking big time Puligny. The en Remilly cuts like a knife across the palate with white fruits, thyme, crystallized ginger and cleansing, refreshing acidity. If the en Remilly is a razor's edge, then the Dents des Chien is ninjas steel. It starts off very linear and just fans out saturating the palate with citrus, clover, pain grille and baking spice. Broader, weightier, voluptuous and alluring, it is about as good as St. Aubin gets. In addition, Didier crafted two fantastic Puligny's, the Sous le Puits and the La Garenne. What an impressive showing for Didier's wines. Look for them in the Spring, as they are knockout wines.

After tasting the wines, we had a magnificent lunch in Pommard at Aupres de Cloches. Not sure if this place has a Michelin star or not, but the 6-course tasting menu we experienced was expertly prepared and melded to perfection with the wines we drank. Yeah, we drank at lunch...enough with the spitting!

2006 Domaine Larue St. Aubin Murgers Dents de Chien - MAGNUM

2002 Domaine Larue St. Aubin Murgers Dents de Chien

2003 Domaine Larue St. Aubin Sentier du Clou Rouge

1999 Domaine Ganoux Pommard Grands Epenots

I was fat and happy!

JCB the 4th

Women & The Rockstar

Directly following our visit at Domaine Leflaive, we walked a few blocks to taste with Francois Carillon of Domaine Louis Carillon. Well, at least that's the name of it at present. 2010 marks a split between Francois and his brother, Jacques and each will have holdings and wines bearing their own name. Apparently, from the hap-hazard bits I could decipher, it has something to do with a woman. Shocking!

The wines of Carillon are a direct opposite of those from Domaine Leflaive. They were richer, which to me manifested itself gorgeously with the Puligny village and not so gorgeously with regard to the various 1er cru wines. They felt a bit heavy-handed in 2008 just slightly lacking cut, but there is certainly a wealth of fruit. That being said, the 2008 Carillon Bienvenue Batard Montrachet, tasted out of a tiny stainless steel tank, was the kind of stuff dreams are made of. They only make 600, er 599 1/2 bottles of this massively endowed Grand Cru that tips the scales of weight, while still seeming weightless. Expansive, wide and exuberant mango, nectarine, brioche, stones, white flowers and ripping acid cleanliness culminate with great force. An outstanding wine that only need a decade of rest to display its greatness.

As an aside, this domaine has also been bold enough to do extensive tasting of their older wines and have proclaimed that all of their wines from the mid-90's completely suck due to premature oxidation problems. They blame bad corks as the culprit and also say that the same wines out of magnum have no issues and are superb. Let's get a big bottle and test the theory, eh?

Now that two monumental visits are in the books, its time for lunch. We saunter over to Hotel Montrachet for a little refreshments, food and beverages of the typicity of the place. Meal...superb...wines...damn fine. After playing our usual blind tasting reindeer games, we finish up with a sublime cup of coffee, a perfect segue to the rendez-vous with the Vinifrance rockstar of the portfolio, Sylvain Bzikot.

I've said it before. Sylvain Bzikot would be a complete wine idol of every Burg-geek in the world if you sat them down to blind taste his wares against the greats. He's that good. Aside from that, he has an aura as large and brilliant as the sun. Despite the fact that there is a distinct linguistic disconnect when we see each other (he speaks little to no English and I know just enough French to be wrong every time I attempt to converse) we are never at a loss of understanding. Sylvan unveiled an absolutely stunning set of 2008's for us to taste after sampling his 2009's from barrel. These wines are feverish and nervy, luscious and lively, lingering and long...in a singluar word, captivating. You really can't take your mind off them for long when engaged with them as all thoughts, even ones outside of wine, take you back to the beauty in the glass. Haunting beauty...

Every wine presented was spot on. But if pressed for two to look for in the near future, seek out his 2008 Puligny Montrachet La Rouselle and his 2007 Puligny Montrachet Les Folatieres 1er cru, both arriving in a couple months. The La Rouselle marks a victorious three year battle importer/svengali, Olivier Daubresse, has had with Sylvain to bottle this special lieu-dit on its own. Formerly, blended into the village-level wine, the La Rouselle is dynamic, dreamy Puligny that could compete with any 1er cru. Crystalline mineral touches, medium bodied melon tones meld with hints of honeydew and show impeccable balance. It's amazing wine! All I have to say about Sylvain's Folatieres 1er cru is that I tasted the exact same vintage and site from Domaine Leflaive precisely 4 hours before so it was fresh in my mind. Sylvain made the better wine. Period.

JCB the 4th

Wine Diversion 2010 - The 6 Greatest Albums of All-Time

For your viewing pleasure (and because I know you can't live without this knowledge) I present to you the 6 Greatest Albums of All-Time. Well, at least these are my faves...

6 - Weezer - The Red Album - Ok, so before you think this list has no credibility, give this thing a listen. These pop songs with distorted guitars are so finely crafted, dripping with oxymorons, sarcasm and just life-affirming truth. It begins with a 2 chord stomp, "Troublemaker", that toyfully plays with rockgod/B-boy swagger. "The Greatest Man That Ever Lived" is a Bohemian Rhapsody inspired touch of genius. "Heart Songs" hits home deep to me as an ode to adolescent musical inspiration and I did a lot of the nutty things in "Everybody Get Dangerous" as a kid. In my mind, Rivers Cuomo is one of my generations most under-appreciated songwriters.

5 - Jay-Z - The Blueprint - Since I've never been one to totally dismiss someone for being popular, any true fan of hip-hop can't deny that Jay-Z deserves a spot on the "Mt. Rushmore" of the art form. While he has crafted many bumpin' singles over the years, The Blueprint is his most complete work with lyrical flows that match the tremendous musical production. From the brilliant use of a Doors sample in "The Takeover" to the swingin' Timbaland-produced "Hola Hovito" to the Bobby Blues Bland-groove of "Heart of the City (Ain't No Love)" this is Jigga at not only his most lethal, but also perhaps his most poignant. Lot's of dudes can rap, but no one has the verbal skills of Jay-Z.

4 - Fishbone - Truth & Soul - This album's production may sound dated to some now, but this is the most important record that I've ever heard. It was released at a time when I wanted desparately to be in a touring band and when I saw a black kid with a bald head, a few dreadlocks aloft play a live set at City Gardens for $5 with the energy and destructive capabilities of a SCUD missle, my mind was forever changed. Once I got home and bought the CD (yes, kids, that's what we did back then) I was destroyed. Seering ska-soaked, punk-n-soul with attitude and real heart, made me listen so much I wore the CD out. The greatest band I've ever seen live, period, at their creative apex.

3 - Public Enemy - It Take A Nation Of Millions To Hold Us Back - From Chuck D's barking baritone delivery to the nonsense of Flavor Flav's antics, this is Panther Power punk. The Bomb Squad (whatever happened to these guys?) created a ground-breaking style of beats by making the track so dense that it almost sounded like cacophony incarnate but every sample has its place and is perfectly situated. Chuck's voice is so crucial in songs like "Rebel Without a Pause" "Black Steel In the Hour of Chaos" and "Night of the Living Baseheads", it's like a call to arms. I'm ready, Chuck!

2 - Sam Cooke - Live at Harlem Square (1964) - No one, and I do mean no one, has ever sang a song like Sam does. When he first came on the scene, he was a crooner in a tight suit and so clean cut. But the REAL Sam Cooke is on full display in this live performance in front of an all-Black crowd in Miami. Sam takes 'em to church with soulful, raspy renditions of his poppy singles. Listening to this you can feel the sweat in the room, you can hear the urgency in his voice and the passion of the real man. Rod Stewart has probably listened to this as much as I have as his vocal styling throughout his career is a dead-red replication of this album. Sometimes, I wish I was born back then (except for the racism and stuff) just so I could have been groovin' in the back of the room. I still, after 9 million listens, get the chills every time "Bring It On Home" breaks in. Whoa!

And in the Number One Spot!

1 - Stevie Wonder - Songs In the Key Of Life - Nothing will ever displace this album...ever. Forget for a moment that it was the soundtrack to my childhood, always playing at my home on Saturday morning when my mother was cleaning the house and still on when my father got back from the golf course. Song after song after song of greatness from the most important singular artist in my lifetime. He paints a picture more vivid that anyone despite having never seen many of the things he describes. "Village Ghetto Land", "I Wish", "Sir Duke", "Isn't She Lovely", "Knocks Me Off My Feet", "Saturn", "Ebony Eyes"...my God, there really isn't a collection of music that I've ever come across that is so completely organic, honest and filled with the reality of the human experience. To me, the greatest work of art of all-time.

I promise to get back to the Burgundy trip, pronto.

JCB the 4th

Promise (slightly) Unfulfilled...

Well, I know that I told you I would be sending daily updates from the vineyards of the Cote d'Or, but alas, I never brought my computer. Why? I always have a tough time at our hotel (Le Montrachet) getting and maintaining an internet connection, so instead of lugging my burly laptop to Burgundy, I decided at the last minute to just focus on the sights, sounds and smells (oh yes, there are many) of Bourgogne and to detail as much as possible. Some of my travel companions look at me with a perplexed brow when I'm banging away on my Blackberry, but it really is an efficient tool to record every tasting, wine and dish that we enjoy. As for Tweeting, stupid T-Mobile wanted to charge me a king's ransom to tweet out the wines from France. Le Batards!

So if you read our 56 newsletter, you know that Lamy Pillot was an impressive visit that lasted from mid-afternoon to well into the evening culminating in a delcious dinner in Beaune at Le P'tite Paradis. Chris did a great job of describing the whole scene on his blog, Down to Earth Wine. The following morning, we were to see one of the most storied white wine estates of the world, the irrepressible, Domaine Leflaive...

We had a glorious tasting at Domaine Leflaive and Antoine Lepetit couldn't have been more gracious. He answered all of our questions about the processes with accuracy and thought, allowed us to sample their dynamic 2008's from tank as the are close to being bottled and even explained what "Sous le Dos d'Ane" means, their fantastic singular Meursault. "Donkey's back" is the answer as neither Chris nor I could find a good translation for the life of us before now. One surprising tidbit is that many 2008's were extremely slow to complete malo-lactic fermentation. Thus, we were unable to taste the Puligny Montrachet AC or the Puligny Montrachet Les Folatieres 1er cru. We did go Bourgogne Blanc to Grand Cru and it was really amazing!

Wines Tasted:

2008 Bourgogne Blanc
2008 Meursault Sous le Dos d'Ane 1er cru
2008 Puligny Montrachet Clavoillons 1er cru
2008 Puligny Montrachet Les Pucelles 1er cru
2008 Batard Montrachet Grand Cru
2008 Chevalier Montrachet Grand Cru

2007 Puligny Montrachet AC
2007 Puligny Montrachet Les Folatiers 1er cru
2007 Bienvenue Batard Montrachet Grand Cru

Since the 2007's will be coming to our market very soon, it was great to get a chance to taste them from bottle. All three were stunning wines in their respective category, representing the pinnacle of the Chardonnay grape. The Puligny village is not to be missed as it is wide open and classic Puligny with tropical fruits, orange peel, nuts and mocha hints. The Folatiers is always a lush and forward drinking site and the 07 is gorgeous with expansive, voluminous citrus fruit, stones, chalk, white fruits and vanilla bean. Finally, the Bienvenue is like a statuesque beauty, all regal and dressed to the nines. It jumps from the glass with melons, spice, tangerine, smoke and white corn with real class and superior length. Truly a jaw dropping tasting and a true honor to be in the hallowed halls...

Next up...Carillon, Bzikot & crazy meals!

JCB the 4th

Here We Go, Here We Go, Here We Go, Here We Go, Here We Here We Here We Go!

Burgundy trip is a go, T-minus six days to liftoff. This year, the list of wineries confirmed to visit is as follows...

Domaine Bzikot, Puligny

Domaine Lamy-Pillot, Chassagne

Domaine Borgeot, Santenay

Domaine Larue, St. Aubin

Domaine Jean Michel Guillon, Gevrey

Domaine Maillard, Chorey

Domaine Albert Grivault, Meursault

Domaine Leflaive, Puligny

Domaine Joseph Roty, Gevrey

The plan at present is to document each day as best I can in the short spells of down time that we have. I also intend to bring you a little video as well (thanks Rich!) to paint the portait a touch more vividly.

To warm-up, last night I roasted various chicken parts, made a little rice pilaf and sauteed a bit of broccolini in olive oil and garlic and washed it down with the 2006 Domaine Leflaive Macon-Verze. To classify this as just Macon is akin to classifying Freddie Mercury as just a singer. It's so much greater than that (as is the late Mercury) and the only thing separating this from 1er cru is the dirt. All the tell-tale Domaine Leflaive creme brulee, citrus oil, creamy-yet-not-oaky-and-still-precise character is all there. Can't wait to see the whole operation...

JCB the 4th

Guess Who's Back?!

I'm back, People!

The hiatus of Le Monstre was one part holiday hub-bub, as it is the busiest time of the year at 56. The other two parts were due to Blogspot shutting me down for a week or so, slapping this as a spamblog. What the hell? I put a few links to our business and all of sudden I'm a spammer? I am trying to make a living for cryin' out loud, but I'd like to think that there's a little more entertainment and artistry going on here than that moniker suggests. If there wasn't, you wouldn't read this more than once anyway. Believe me, no computer generated spam-bot can do it like I do. Well, maybe except for my IPod, which I referenced nearly a year ago when this blog began. My IPod is a freak. Seriously.

And she'll be put to the test in less than 10 days as I head back to Burgundy, the scene of the very first posts here. I'll do my best to give you a blow-by-blow as the tastings unfold. And as long as I don't have too much Chassagne with dinner, I'll wake up early and do just that. It's sure to be interesting this year as the focus will be the now bottled 2008's (unheralded vintage) and the in barrel (super heralded vintage) 2009's. I'm really excited to try both. Really? Excited to try 2008's? Yes, because experience has shown me that there are many jewels among vintages that the wine press officially labels as "just ok". One only need look as far back as 2006 and 2001. Both came alongside great years (2005 & 2002) and got lost in the process. 2001's are glorious wines right now and 2006 will mirror that with time. You heard it here first!

Since its been a while since we've seen each other and I've consumed too many tasty wines to give you the laundry list, here is my fave Pinot for drinking right now that I had just last night with leftovers. It's the (link provided, so sue me!) 2007 Domaine Maillard Bourgogne Rouge. This is flat-out delicious Pinot right now just drinking brilliantly. Kudus, Pascal! See you in a couple weeks!

Le Monstre's New Year's Eve Wines

1976 Josef Fries Noviander Honigberg Riesling Auslese

2002 Daniel Rion Vosne Romanee Les Beaux Monts 1er cru
2004 Vimart & Cie Champagne Brut Rose "Grand Cellier Rubis"

The l'enfant terrible is back for the 2010!

à bientôt

JCB the 4th

"Hyperactive Now I'm Grown"

Want something to do tonight (Saturday) that will be wickedly entertaining? Come to Just Jakes in Montclair (30 Park St) and see me and my bandmates rip through 32 or so songs with Death Star-like precision. It's sure to be a funky good time, we're playing some new tunes and I'll probably Tweet from the stage. What could be more fun than watching a 41 year old play rock-n-soul while Tweeting about the sights?

I rest my case.

JCB the 4th

Thanksgiving Day Fraud

Sadly, I was dry on Thanksgiving.

Not that it's really such a major deal, but the big wine director who made pairing suggestions to hundreds in the last couple weeks enjoyed his turkey and trimmings with...fruit punch!

A late arrival to dinner coupled with a 30+ family member gathering with lots of catching up to do left my mind not really on wine. I did have some on hand, as I asked my mother to tote 3 bottles to the dinner for me and anyone else who cared to enjoy. 3 bottles, 30 people? Have you lost your mojo, Le Monstre?

As I previously chronicled, there is not much of a wine (or any sort of imbibing) culture in my family, so I'm a bit of a renegade in that respect. On top of that, my mother forgot to bring the bottles in from her car and I wasn't in the mood to run out and get them as the food began to flow. No matter...a late night bottle of bubbly with Madame Bruce was delicious, the NV Eric Rodez Champagne Brut "Cuvee des Crayeres". It has more crisp apple tones with a chalky personality and long, lascivious finish. It's so bad, it's good.

JCB the 4th

Wine Diversion #1

This is unreal live grown folks music. Enjoy!

JCB the 4th



Lyrics Hall & Oates - She’s Gone lyrics

Thanksgiving Juice

Believe it or not, my family is not big on wine. I didn't grow up with parents who drank much at all and wine was never really a part of the dinner atmosphere. So when we gather for Thanksgiving, I usually bring something tasty and not terribly expensive, dare I say Cellar Defender™?

NV Michel Fonne Cremant d'Alsace Brut - A great Champagne alternative, crisp and dry Pinot Blanc with bubbles.

2007 Alain Corcia Bourgogne Chardonnay - This is delicious Chardonnay from declassified fruit from Meursault. An outstanding deal.

2008 Willi Schaefer Riesling Qba Mosel - Just enough sweetness, just enough minerals, just the right price. Bring on the yams!

2007 Domaine des Billards St. Amour - Devastatingly good Gamay, the best I've ever had. Those who poo-poo Beaujolais should taste this Cru Beaujo and prepare to be rocked!

Happy Thanksgiving!

JCB the 4th

No Respect!

Can anyone explain to me why the retail wine merchant is the Rodney Dangerfield of the wine business?

I mean, ok, I get it. There are a lot of uninformed, slovenly folks out there who happen to own licenses that don't really give a hoot about wine. They lack passion, imagination and a firm understanding about the how and why wine is the magnificent, lovely and essential beverage that it is. Perfectly comfortable to just pump out wine scores and sell on the merits of other palates rather than their own, they do a disservice to the wine world as a whole. It's very irksome to ponder...

I'm often invited to lunch or dinner by our stable of distributors and importers to meet and dine with various winemakers from around the globe. It's usually at a very swank restaurant in the city and I'm always thrilled and very appreciative to attend. The first thing that I notice upon arriving is the ratio of retailers to sommeliers. It's usually in the 4 to 1 range in favor of the somms. Not sure why I care or why I even mention this but I always perceive it as a (very tiny) disrespect to the power of the educated and effective retailer. What is usually more surprising to me is that many winemakers are in love with sommeliers and having their wines on the lists of great restaurants. Don't get me wrong, a great sommelier is essential to the dining experience and some of my best friends are sommeliers. But the somms themselves feed into this also. Can't tell you how many times I've met one and upon me introducing myself they ask, "What part of the city is the restaurant?" When I mention that it's a retail store AND in NJ (another no-no) they usually try to end the conversation as soon as possible and find another somm.

It's a bit of an ego thing on the winemakers part, that much I understand. But the bottom line is unless your wine is being poured by the glass, the great restaurant might go through a couple cases of your wine in a year. A good retailer can do five (or twenty) times more than that in a day. No one goes in a restaurant and orders a case of the same wine. Would be kinda nutty to do so considering the markup.

Show a little love toward your friendly neighborhood wineshop.

JCB the 4th

Barolo Testing - 1, 2, 3...

A small gathering of wine pro's gave a test drive to 2004 and 1996 Barolo last night...

2002 Domaine Leflaive Puligny Montrachet Les Clavoillons 1er cru - What the heck?! This ain't Barolo. Hell, it ain't even red! What are we supposed to start off with Cortese or Favorita? Killer wine that unfortunately could have used an hour to unwind or better yet five more years.

2004 & 1996 Marcarini Barolo Brunate
2004 & 1996 Francesco Rinaldi Barolo Brunate
2004 & 1996 Bartolo Mascarello Barolo
2004 & 1996 Guisepp Mascarello Barolo Monprivato
2004 & 1996 Giacomo Conterno Barolo Cascina Francia
2004 Roagna Barolo Vigna Rionda & 1996 Massolino Barolo Vigna Rionda
2004 Giacosa Barolo Falletto (White Label) & 1996 Giacosa Barolo Falletto (Red Label)

1995 Chateau d'Yquem Sauternes - Super yum!

Much discussion about which wine was best in the respective vintage and surprisingly there was not a clear consensus. Since this blog is my sandbox, I'll say the Bartolo Mascarello wins as the best 2004 and the Giacosa (Duh!) wins as the favorite 1996. The Giacomo Conterno wines were the best pair, although in serious need of further slumber, and were my second favorite wine in both vintages. As always, they were devastatingly good. Both wines from Rinaldi were superb, a classic producer doing the old-school strut to perfection. Finally, I've never had a wine by Masolino, but after this encounter, I desparately want to try more from them. Really lovely...

Thanks to Doug for organizing and everyone else for sharing such precious juice.

JCB the 4th

Dinner with a Vieux

Francois Thienpont is about as charming as they come. Just look at him...wouldn't you want to buy wine from this guy?

Born of Belgish (is that a word?) descent, his family has graced the Bordeaux landscape since the 1920's. Purchasing the hallowed Pomerol estate, Vieux Chateau Certan, the Thienpont clan has embarked upon a singular mission to create the best they possibly can from the top-notch "terroir" to which they have at their disposal. Seems simple, and at its very core, it is...farm naturally, don't use chemicals, avoid the pitfalls the vintage tosses your way, and wait. And wait. And wait. Finally, when the vine whispers to you that the time is right, you pick the fruit by hand. You ferment the grapes with its natural yeasts, you allow malo-lactic fermentation, you rack to barrels and then you wait. Easy, right?

But there is talent involved and that talent lies in the hands of Francois' brother, Alexandre. His touch with Merlot, Cabernet Franc and Cabernet Sauvignon is feather-light, a bit of an oxymoron when referring to Bordeaux. But if Pomerol is the Burgundy of Bordeaux, then Vieux Chateau Certan is the Vosne Romanee. It's velvety and sleek, certainly the most sexy of the Right Bankers. In short, I adore the wines of VCC.

Francois came to a Grapes for Good wine dinner in his honor at Culinariane in Montclair this past week. He humbly told the tale of his family's estate, described in-depth the winemaking philosophy of his wines and showcased gorgeous examples of his wines ranging from $11 to $179 per bottle. Hell, he even helped me personally double decant all of the reds prior to service. Spilling a bit, it was refreshingly hilarious to hear a Frenchman curse in both French and English! But his wit, charm and moreover, his wares won over the group who sampled them along with the devastatingly delicious delights of Chef Ariane Duarte, my hometown culinary goddess. Many proclaimed the Yogurt Marinated Lamb Chops, Vadouvan Carrot Puree, Raita, Petit Seasons Mix and Maldon Sea Salt, the best lamb to every pass their lips. High praise from the experienced foodies in attendance...

Four wines really stood out to me that night:

2007 Charmes Goddard Cotes de Francs Blanc

2006 La Violette Cotes de Castillon

2006 Chateau Puygueraud Cotes de Francs

2006 La Gravette de Certan Pomerol - arriving in a week or so

2006 Vieux Chateau Certan Pomerol - arriving in a week or so

These wines are essential Bordeaux. Naked, honest and real...

JCB the 4th

A Throwback...

Like short-shorts, the afro pick and white socks over the calf, these wines are a throwback to the good ol' days. The times when wines we're as honest and hard-working as James Brown and smooth as Dr. J gliding through the lane.

2007 Domaine Haut Cances Cotes du Rhone Villages Cairanne "Tradition" - Hard to argue with the value of this wine as I defy you to put it in your mouth blind and not think old-school Chateauneuf du Pape from a strong vintage. I know nothing of this winery (but I'll learn more before we offer it this week) and have never tasted any of their wares before yesterday. But there is no doubt that there are many wines that can satisfy, but few can tell a story as vivid as this in just one taste without some serious terroir, history and deft skills. Flat out the best Cotes du Rhone I have tasted in years, truly stunning.

2007 Lamy Pillot Chassagne Montrachet Les Caillerets 1er cru - Shining like the true star it is at a recent tasting in NYC, this Chardonnay is all about pedigree. Caillerets is for my money, the best non-Grand Cru site in Chassagne, without question. And while no one wants to give credit or much attention to Sebastien Caillat, who not only married well into the Lamy family, but also is a gifted vigneron who has a lacy touch with his wines. This is so stunning a wine that it will, to quote a friend of mine from California, "Roll yer socks up and down three times!" How can that be beat?

Both of these wine are coming in the next week, so savvy Le Monstre readers get the inside skinny, like George Gervin with the patented finger roll.


JCB the 4th

Coming Ko-rrect...

While this restaurant is subject to a wide variety of opinions in the blogosphere, I just wanted to relay my thoughts as I dined at Momofuku Ko a few nights ago. Forget the sparse minimalist 12-seats, impossible reservation system that rewards those with itchy trigger fingers and super fast internet connections or even the slightly underwhelming wine list...this place is what I would open with unlimited funds and no one to answer to. Complete with a pumping soundtrack of every thing I love musically: Jay Z to Weezer to Led Zeppelin to Mos Def to James Brown, it's an unrelenting artistic endeavor. Why else would one open a micro-sized, mega-course restaurant with a food max $ intake of $2400 ($100 pp x 12 seats and two seatings) a night? Certainly not a king’s ransom in Manhattan...

But it's really about the food. Determined to live in the moment and not tweet my way through the dining experience, I didn't document each of the 10+ courses presented. But this was clearly the best meal I've ever had in NYC and pretty close to the best one ever, period. The amuse of feather light Pork Rind and an English Muffin of salty Pork fat melts in the mouth. Things like Oxtail Consommé with Caramelized Onion Ravioli, Purple Basil and Cilantro were so fine and subtle, while an intense southwestern inspired, Sweet Grilled Corn Ravioli with Chorizo, Pickled Heiloom Tomato and Scallions literally exploded with flavor. The amazing (and now famous) Lychee, Riesling Gelee, Pine Nut Brittle and shaved frozen Fois Gras just might be the best thing I’ve ever consumed despite the plate looking like a Fois Gras snowstorm. A Deep Fried Short Rib braised in Soy Sauce, Mirin and Sugar is wondrous. Blueberries with Black Pepper Crumble and Black Pepper Ganache is a sweet, savory dream.

I ordered a 375ml of 2004 Domaine Ferret Pouilly-Fuisse “Le Clos” which was delicious and drinking to perfection. I opted for the $45 corkage and brought a bottle from my cellar, 1996 Joseph Roty Gevrey Chambertin Les Fontenys 1er cru (link to the 2006 -- give it a decade and it will be just as amazing). It was showing brilliantly with loads of luscious black cherry fruit, Gevrey-spice, deep sappy cassis, and hints of animal. Phenomenal with the Short Rib…

I hope that one day I can return and despite the coolish demeanor of the guys behind the line, I’m in love. And when you’re in love, one’s slight foibles are endearing. If you are lucky enough to get in here, you’re really in for an unforgettable meal.

JCB the 4th

The Stream of Inebriation Documented

I'm sure you thought the subtitle of this blog was a joke, but a few days ago, I connected electrodes to my brain to capture what flows through my head while sleeping. The results were shocking to say the least.

Almondo's Roero Arneis...best...citrus...minerally...barking dogs need to stop...White Pie with Broccoli...Michael Vick...almonds...long finish...no more barking

Oddero...dynamite...old school...my delightful Nebbiolo grape...Risotto...clown in grease paint mocking a school kid...2005 Barolo's better than 04's, possible?...kid kicks clown in groin...Sette Cucina...lovely...paybacks


Fries Riesling Auslese...rich and sweet...The Jefferson's Weezie...baked apple compote...Hogan's Hero's Col. Klink...aging forever...stones, stones, stones and acid...pork chops and applesauce...Sanford and Son's Lamont...amazing deal...Horshack

Anyone have the number of a good dream therapist?

JCB the 4th

A Haiku for That...

Longing Freak of Wine
Stemware Edge to Wanting Lips
Nectar Bringing Love

Inspiration - Selosse

JCB the 4th

Angrily Staying Ahead of the Herds!

I'm a little pissed and I'm comin' out swingin'!

I've documented how much I enjoy the wines of Brewer Clifton, a long time fan. My trip to Santa Barbara a couple months ago only galvanized my admiration of what Greg Brewer and Steve Clifton are accomplishing in the Santa Rita Hills. Fine, Ok, so what has my panties in a bunch? This morning, I found out that all the wines are gone. And the reason for this is the Wine Advocate gave them big scores the day before and the stampede commenced.

Liz Willette (the fantastic NY distributor) has had these wines in her warehouse for probably 6 months. They have been shown at multiple tastings and my sales rep has brought them out to taste as well. Bottom line, any retailer or restauranteur who wanted to try them since then had ample opportunity to use their own palates and buy accordingly. Instead, like the lazy lumps they are, they sit around waiting for Lord Parker to tell them what to buy and how good it is by way of a numerical figure. And once he weights in the herds descend like cattle infected with Mad Cow Disease. It makes my nuts!

Believe me, I have no axe to grind with Robert Parker. He has done way more good for the wine world than almost anyone in the last 50 years. I don't necessarily agree with his palate, but that's why they make chocolate and vanilla. It's not Parker's fault that the entire wine world hangs on his every word, to the point where winemakers are crafting wines solely to impress him. That's another rant for another day.

In summation, here is a link to the Brewer Clifton wines we have in stock, the Santa Rita Hills Chardonnay and the Santa Rita Hills Pinot Noir. Both are solid Burgundian styled efforts that I've tasted and think are special. I've calmed down now. Thanks for helping me through this...

JCB the 4th

The 56 Degree Wine Road Show - All Aboard!

Enough with the vacation already! Let's get this soiree swingin'!

First of all, I have to report that tonight, Dave Powell of Torbreck Vineyards, will be joining the 56 Crew at the Pluckemin Inn in Bedminster for a super-duper Aussie Barbeque feast. It promises to be a night for the ages as we'll wash down all the superb meats from Debragga.com with Dave's supple lip-smacking wines that are always full of fruit but supremely balanced. Can't wait!

And if you've never been to one of our 56 Degree Wine dinners, you have no idea the fun you're leaving behind. Sign up for our email blasts by yours truly at 56 Degree Wine.com and enter the world of wine wonder, Master of Wine-style. Which leads me to a preview of what is to come this fall, so that those of you savvy enough to read this blog get a sneak peek and first dibs on attending.

I hatched an idea of the 56 Degree Wine Road Show a few months ago. Essentially, we'll do wine dinners at select destination restaurants outside our area with various themes and differing pricepoints. Some will be top-end and some will be ultra-casual. But I guarantee that all of them will be phenomenal experiences.

The first stop on the Road Show will be at DeLorenzo's Tomato Pies in Robbinsville, NJ on Sunday September 27th, 2009. This place is legendary in NJ as having the best tomato pies (calling it pizza is sacrilege) in the world. The original DeLorenzo's is still alive and kickin' on Hudson Street in Trenton, where it has resided since 1947. It's so entrenched in the fabric of Chambersburg that this is probably the only restaurant in the state with no bathroom. No lie, they were grandfathered in! This place serves only tomato pies and soda. No menu, no restroom and if you try to order a pie with pineapple, they'll probably kick you right out on your butt! This is old-school, hand crafted tomato pies at their best and freshest, featuring wafer thin crust that is the stuff dreams are made of. Since I didn't think we could do a wine dinner in a place with no toilet, we'll host this at the new Robbinsville location, owned by Sam Amico, the grandson of Chick DeLorenzo. Sam has fantastic salads on the menu, continues to make the family recipe tomato pies and...even has his and hers johns! The best part is that we'll be able to do this casual wine dinner for a song, enjoying the pies and sipping on Dolcetto, Barbera and Sangiovese. Mark your calendar!

I'll have more heads up info on the 56 Degree Wine Road Show very soon.

JCB the 4th