Wildin' out on the West Coast...

The delay in posts stems from a short jaunt I made to Vegas, Santa Barbara and Los Angeles. Short in the respect that it was 3 places in four days, but long in the fact that I took planes, (air) trains and automobiles to accomplish the journey.

Las Vegas was...well...Las Vegas. I won't go into what went on, as like the commercial states, it stays there. But I did have a very good meal at Bouchon in the Venetian's Venezia Tower. This Thomas Keller run restaurant showcased wonderful dishes like Salade de Poulpe, marinated octopus and flageolet bean salad with parsley vinaigrette and garlic toast. It went superbly with the 2007 William Fevre Chablis AC, showcasing all the steely, taut citrus fruit. Moving on to Gigot d'Agneau, a roasted leg of lamb with ratatoille and sweet garlic jus, I opted for a magnificent, albeit outrageously priced 2007 A. Clape Cotes du Rhone. Gloriously fragrant and delicious Syrah from the Northern Rhone that really shouldn't be $90 on a list. It's freakin' COTES du RHONE!! Actually, if you poured it in a glass for me and asked if I'd think it was worth it, I'd say "Hell yeah!" as it's that good. But what is this world coming to when Cotes du Rhone is $90? A rhetorical question that I wish I never asked. I sound like an old man who walked to school everyday...5 miles...uphill...both ways...in a snowstorm.

After leaving Vegas, the journey led to Santa Barbara where a meeting with the great Greg Brewer of Brewer Clifton and Diatom was on the docket. I've always been a fan of their wines, even purchasing a bunch on my own dime back in the day. Greg is a thinker, a generous soul and a guy who seems fairly unfazed by his fame in the world of wine. Tasting his 2008 Diatom Chardonnay Babcock Vineyard showed just how wonderful California Chardonnay can be when unfettered by oak. Citrusy, tangerine-toned, bright and sunshiny, this wine keeps the emphasis squarely on the fruit as he uses 6% new wood with the rest older oak. The freshness of the wine is really impressive. We will be receiving a small amount of this wine very shortly, so get some while you can. We followed up with tank samples of the not yet bottled Brewer Clifton Chardonnays (the Santa Rita Hills and the Gnesa were my favorites) and finished with the Santa Rita Hills Pinot Noir (fragrant cherry and green tea), Melville Vineyard Pinot Noir (amazing spicy, Gevrey reminiscent wine that's locked, loaded and needing cellaring) and Mount Carmel Pinot Noir (lush and sexy, juicy and ripe black fruit). An astoundingly fantastic tasting and I thank Greg for his patience and generosity!

Finally, Los Angeles, where my brother resides, has never been my cup of tea. It's like a bunch of sprawled out communities with no real grit. I mean, where are the city blocks, the subways, the flavor? How can you love a place that never rains, never gets cold, has earth quakes and Kobe Bryant? But there is a charm to Santa Monica and after a good burrito and margarita at Lula's, we had dinner at Chaya in Venice. A fun and loud spot that has lousy service, but solid food and one wine by the glass that rocked, the 2008 Claude Branger Muscadet Sevre et Maine Sur Lie "Le Gras Moutons". Briny, spiny and shiny, this is tasty quaffing wine with Peruvian Salmon Ceviche with Red Onion, White Corn and Chili Lime Sauce as well as Lobster Enchiladas with Cilantro Cream Sauce.

East Coast represent...

JCB the 4th

60 Seconds Away from Wine

Yes, Le Monstre du Vin does more than wine and music. I have two other passions, the first of which I'll reveal now...

I have been a golfer ever since going to college. My father, who is the smartest and most steady person I ever met, diabolically introduced me to the game as a young kid. I don't know if I should thank him or flip him the bird. For after all these years of bashing balls, spending money, traveling to courses all over the country and incessantly seeking a golf ideal (the perfect round) that really doesn't exist, I have finally come to peace with the game. Golf has a way of exposing your every facet. It's a game based on honor. The rules and etiquette involved are revered, as well they should be. In what other sport do you call penalties on yourself? Have you ever seen an NBA player that actually thought they EVER committed a foul?

Bad rounds of golf used to kill me. I'd take that sinking feeling with me off the course and often let it affect my life outside the links. These days, I'm so busy with work, fatherhood, family issues, musical endeavors and just generally living, that I rarely get that upset by golf. It's the fun diversion that it should be unless your name is Tiger. I'm proud to say this new outlook has manifested itself in my reaching the Finals in the Mercer County Match Play event, by winning my match this morning 2 & 1. Since I have been enjoying just playing, I've actually been playing better and having more fun in the process. Don't get me wrong, I'm still extremely competitive and want to beat your brains out on the course. But it doesn't rule or define me. Le Monstre just might be growing up after all.

Since this should have taken you less than 60 seconds to read (unless you read slow like me), I'd like to get back to wine for just a second. A couple days ago, I had the 2007 Lamblin Bourgogne Chardonnay, a super tasty white from declassified Chablis vines. It was so lovable and so cheap, just another re-affirmation of the value spectrum and how fantastic wines can still be made for a song. So tasty with Chinese food from Sesame in Montclair on Sunday night.

JCB the 4th

Battle Royale...The Sweet Science of Wine Pairing & Transformation

I've always thought that wine and food make music when they come together. Sometimes it's raucous, sometimes it's serene and sometimes it's profound, ponderous. But there is almost always a difference between having wine (and assessing it) on its own vs. with a complimentary meal. I was reminded of this just a couple of days ago, while speaking to a group of corporate clients at the Pluckemin Inn on Thursday. It got me to thinkin'...

I walked everyone through a comparative tasting of classic French and Italian wines. My idea was to keep it real, as in true, indigenous varietals made in the traditional fashion. No pumped up, micro-oxygenated, cone-spun, water added, over-extracted, tuti-frutti, Johnny-Come-Lately's allowed! We began with a delicious Champagne, NV Gatinois Champagne Brut Ay Grand Cru , which was superb with its toasty, zippy, copper-tinged Petit Pinot d'Ay fruit. We stayed with that wine through the amuse and then dived into two whites from 2007, the fantastic Ronchi di Cialla Colli Orientali del Friuli "Cialla Bianco" and the Domaine Bzikot Puligny Montrachet AC. Right out of the box the Bzikot was all pedigree, minerals and definition, the way more exuberent wine. On the surface it didn't seem like a fair fight, like sticking me in the ring with Lennox Lewis. But I'm scrappy, and so is the Ronchi di Cialla, so with a bit of air time AND the dish presented (Scallops, White Eggplant Puree & Riviera sauce) which had just a hint of honey character, Ronchi transformed like a pheonix and made music. It was tremendous! And like the true champion, the Bzikot put on a brilliant display as well, but slight nod to the underdog.

Next up, we gave Piemonte a chance to bump heads with Burgundy as we pitted the 2001 Scarzello Barolo Vigna Merenda against the 2002 Domaine des Chezeaux Chambolle Musigny Les Charmes 1er cru. Ah, now there's a match of heavyweights! Decanting the Barolo for 2 hours prior gave it the early lead in aromatics and presence, but never underestimate Laurent Ponsot's accumen. And never underestimate Chambolle Les Charmes ability to allow the flavors of Organic Zucchini Risotto, Parmesan, Roasted Quail & Squash Blossom Tempura to envelope your senses. The Barolo actually was amazing on its own, but when the food arrived, I longed for red meat or maybe a veal chop. The Chezeaux was magic with the dish as its delicate fragrance yet deep and penetrating black cherry fruit soared.


In the final Smackdown, we aimed to create a deathmatch of the quintessential regions of each country, Bordeaux and Brunello di Montalcino. 2005 La Gravette de Certan Pomerol was pitted against the 2003 Collemattoni Brunello di Montalcino. Once again, the Bordeaux was decanted 2 hours prior giving it excellent pronounced aromas of blackberry, plums, spice and graphite. The Collemattoni is the best 2003 Brunello I have tasted (after sampling scores of disappointments) and it showed like the supremely balanced wine it is on that night. When the cooked-to-perfection Roasted Lamb, Extra Virgin Olive Oil, Crushed Spring Potatoes, Favas & Young Onion arrived, I was hard pressed to decide which was better. But what a difference with the food. The earthy, gamy tones of each wine came to the fore and the fruit seemed to explode with vibrancy. Just the ever-so-slight advantage to the Pomerol, despite my Bordeaux bias against, it was other-worldy stuff, only in need of another decade of cellaring.

The Pluckemin Inn rocked it out once again, and with the battle over and the blood drawn, I was left with just one thought...

What's for dessert? Professional Pig, at your service!


JCB the 4th

Intruder ALERT! A Visit to Riecine...

Sometimes its tough for an outsider to be welcomed with open arms. Such is the case with one particular Tuscan estate with a rich storied history that I visited last month called Riecine. Savvy 56 clients know the name Riecine as makers of ultra-fine Chianti Classico. But it is the work of Sri Lankan-born, Londoner Sean O'Callaghan, who made the move to Riecine in 1991 after finishing his studies in Germany, that has really set them apart. He was not exactly greeted to resounding applause by the Tuscan natives upon his arrival, leery of an "outsider" coming to the great Chianti Classico region. Were they worried he would tarnish the "straw flask" ideal that has done so much to "uplift" Chianti in the past? But his emphasis on the classic approach to vinifying Sangiovese, organic farming and now bio-dynamic practices, has won over just about everyone who ever comes in contact with his wines.

I was lucky to visit the estate last month and even luckier that the birthday party they had for Sean at the winery the night before left him still upright. A slightly hungover, but none-the-less charming and accommodating, Sean, showed us his wares in the cellar as we tasted barrel samples of some upcoming vintages. Later, we retired to a local restaurant, Badia a Coltibuono, for a serious test run of the 2007 Chianti Classico, the 2005 Chianti Classico Riserva and a special treat, of 2005 & 1994 Riecine La Gioia, a Super Tuscan-like Sangiovese based wine that is aged for 2 years in older and new barriques. The 2007 Chianti Classico is elegance personified. All of the roundness one could hope for juxtaposed with the acid tension that makes Sangiovese so alluring. The 2005 Chianti Classico Riserva ramps up the intensity without screaming, sorta like listening to Toto's Africa through super high-quality speakers and gently rolling the volume knob. There is a superb depth of fruit and spiced wild berries, smoke and white pepper with superior length.

Finally, the La Gioia is a Tuscan dream wine. The 2005 version was stunning; the wine reminding me of great encounters I've had with top vintages of Flaccianello or Cepparello. Powerfully made and structured for the long haul, this young wine struts out of the glass with brash, brazen black fruit, plums, raspberry and spice, leather and tobacco. Finally the 1994 La Gioia was seductive, self-assured and sultry...lots of lovely dark fruit, truffles, incense, pomegranate, pan drippings and aged balsamic notes melding in harmony. Very long finishing and a lustful, guilty pleasure, I hope like hell that we can get some of this in the near future as it's tremendous, aged wine.

Alas, the visit had to come to an end. And all intruders eventually return home. But maybe if you live in the fruits of the area long enough, you can create your own reality and subsequently, find a space in the world that is new and uniquely yours. I think Sean has done just that.

JCB the 4th

Fresh As a Daisy...

It's time, people!

As I stare out into the parking lot of the U.S. Post Office in Bernardsville, NJ 07924, the solar glow shines through the window of my corner office. It's a little ray of sunshine to a space that's not very sexy. If you'd ever had a chance to see my desk with various printed wine propaganda strewn about, you'd know what I mean. Certainly it's clutter, but it's my clutter...and I know just where to find whatever I need.

But this beam of hope and warmth can only mean one thing...Rose is a must. Just the thought of that copper colored elixir cuppled with the radiating rays brings joy to my mind. Any worry-some thoughts shrink and one's ability to expand the possibilities available increases. Sheesh, it's just good shit!

My favorites this summer are the 2008 Robert Sinskey Vin Gris Los Carneros , a California Rose of Pinot Noir from vines that quite honestly could be making amazing Pinot. For Rob, this wine is a labor of love, a triumph for the palate and probably a bit of a headache. Everyone wants more than the supply provides and you can't please all. They don't even have it still at the winery. I feel very fortunate to be able to get a modest amount of this. True story, a gentlemen came to our store yesterday from Manasquan (a good hour and 15 minutes away) just for Vin Gris. It's so good, it'll make you do unusual things just to get it. Scary, eh?

For value, the 2008 La Ferme Saint Pierre Cotes du Ventoux "Cuvee Juliette" Rose can't be beat. It's all Grenache (used to think it was Syrah...misinformation) and so lively and fresh with that deliciously mineral thirstquenchability that is a requirement for me with Rose wines. I love to slug this back while I'm doing my cooking and sometimes there isn't enough left for the meal. Be careful though, as this isn't 8% alc a la Riesling. But it's so refreshing that it's hard to hold back. Just look at that label...so rosy it's making me nuts!

Real men drink pink.

JCB the 4th

The Top 5 Grubs in Italia

Sorry for the delay in posts, but I've been abroad, soaking up Italia on a whirlwind romp that had me in six regions in six days...

If it seems I've been waxing on and on over Italy, I have. Every time I run across a new Italian find, I have a new favorite wine of the moment. I don't know why Italy is striking a chord with me at present, but my recent journey to Italia from top to bottom has only fed into my Jones. Let's leave wine to the side for the moment to focus on the five best Italian dishes EVER (or at least that I consumed while there)!

1 - Risotto at Trattoria Al Parco - Paolo Meroi is not only the owner of his eponymous winery in Friuli, but he and his wife have a phenomenal restaurant called Trattoria Al Parco in Buttrio. The only wines served are his, where apparently 80% of the wine is sold. His simple Risotto with a local herb was life changing. I have never had (nor probably ever will) another Risotto done with such skill. A testament to the simple approach and the perfection of cooking to the proper doneness. The best dish, bar none.

2 - Carne Cruda at Gillardi's Home - Giacolino Gillardi's mother made us a magnificent lunch capped off with the best version I ever had of Carne Cruda. Raw meat mixed with a few simple spices and drizzled with Extra Virgin Olive Oil. Seems easy, right? This is one raw food movement that I can actually get behind. My God, unbelievable...


3 - Fried Stuffed Zuchini Flowers at Carpe Diem - In Piana di Monte Verda, serious back-water Campania, we had what I can only describe as an appetizer filled with cheese infused crack cocaine! Impossible to stop eating them and amazing with a particular white from Pellagrello Bianco by Alois called "Caiati". The chef has promised to come to Bernardsville and recreate the experience for our clients. If he doesn't, I will hunt him down!

4 - Pasta all'Amatriciana at Casale del Giglio - This is a classic, rustic Lazio dish that was a magnificent foil to their Satrico Bianco, but I might prefer it with a lighter red, even Nebbiolo perhaps. I got 5 things for you...Olive Oil, Short Rigatoni, Sausage, Guanciale (pig jowl) and Pecorino Romana. That's it! Amazingly simple and astoundingly good. Even I can do this one, if I can ever find Guanciale in NJ...


5 - Pasta alla Patate at Carpe Diem - (In a cheesy DJ voice) "Carpe Diem checking in with 2 dishes in our top five countdown, this is Enrico Battisti's favorite thing in the world to eat." He even went in the kitchen to help and he didn't screw it up. This is Mac-n-Cheese for adults, little bits of potato and layers of flavor. This chef rocks and I wish I could remember his name. But if you ever find yourself in Piana di Monte Verda, you must go to Carpe Diem. And then head for Rome pronto...

More on the wines to come, as they will be arriving soon. The first of which will hit next week as we'll uncover some gems of Friuli from Ronchi di Cialla, one of the most gorgeous estates I have ever seen, period.

JCB the 4th

The Best Down the Gullet This Week...

These were remarkable and consumed this week...

Didier Larue came to our store this week with the intention of showcasing his gorgeous wares from St. Aubin and Puligny. Indeed they were stunning; none moreso than the flashy 2006 and 1999 Murgers des Dents de Chiens 1er cru . It was a case study on young and older White Burgundy, showing the classic hallmarks of each wine in its respective evolutionary stage. Those prefering younger, more vibrant wine would gravitate to the 2006, as it was just so precocious and showy. The 1999 was boisterous aromatically but really showed what an aged St. Aubin is all about on the palate. Lots of glycerine, tangerine tones and plenty of terroir. $50 and $57 respectively make them a steal for 1er cru wines of their stature.

What can I say? I can't get enough of the 2008 Ameztoi "Rubentis" Getaraiko Txacolina . Unfortunately, this is one of those rare wines that is just $23...and allocated! Crazy, but they just don't make much of this deliciously crisp, minerally and vibrant Rose Txacoli. We've got about 3 cases of it left. Let's see if you can beat me to them as I'm out of the office the next couple days. You ready, set, GO!

Want a great way to encounter gastrono-oenologic bliss in NYC. Head over to Txikito in Chelsea on 9th Ave between 24th and 25th Sts, for a true Basque experience. The small plates are delectible with my favorite being the Piperrak (pictured), flash fried Basque peppers sprinkled with sea salt. Every once and while you'll get one that will set your mouth ablaze. A little rolling of the gastronomic dice, perhaps? You'll need a bottle of lovely Txacoli to wash it down. They pour the wine in the traditional method with the bartender holding the tumblers low and the bottle overhead. Great wine theatre! Who cares if his hair is reminiscent of A Flock of Seagulls circa 1983?

JCB the 4th

Vintage, Vintage, Vintage...I Want My Vintage!

Ok, I'm going to go out on a limb, here. Vintage ain't all its cracked up to be...

Now before you click off this blog, never to return again, let me expand upon the notion a bit. My opinion is that vintage is important, as the laws of terroir tell us that climate factors are crucial to grape development and the resulting wines. But I think that our American pysche of "only the best will do" can betray us at times. If one becomes consumed with only the best vintages, you will miss out on magnificence to the 10th degree in the form of an underdog. I can't tell you how many times I've tasted great (yes, great) wines from supposed "off-vintages". They just needed some time to come around, like those high school movies where the geeky girl becomes the bombshell.

Here's how it works in the world of wine...

Wine experts, in the form of the press, travel and taste, as well as talk to the producers to hear about the new vintage. These are all good things! Hell, I try to do as much of it as possible to understand what is in the bottle and why it tastes the way it does. But somewhere along the line, the word gets out on the greatness or not-so-greatness of a vintage, in general terms. A broad brush paints everyone's mind who hears about it and that's that. But wines change and evolve from barrel to bottle. And no one likes to go back and say that they might be wrong about a vintage characterization. So that pervasive notion remains...it's a shame.

But what is wrong with a wine that is not from a great vintage? If it is still pleasing to drink and enjoy, why not do just that? It would be a boring wine world if every vintage was great, even if every wine I drank was great. There is a profoundness in the differences that can tell the story of a family's passion. Maybe about the trials and tribulations associated with the challenges to make a good wine when nature threw curve balls in the dirt. I love that.

JCB the 4th

Love in a Clear Bottle Heads the List...

Liquid love in a clear bottle was consumed a few days ago in the form of 2007 Aveleda Vinho Verde Grinalda Reserva, a seriously delicious wine for the heat that just recently broke. At a non-mind boggling 11.5% alc, I damn near killed this one off on my own. Just really refreshing Louiero, Trajadura and Alvarinho from a winery with a long history that is cheap and lovely, one of my favorite combinations. Perfection with tilapia simply prepared with a squeeze of lemon...

Ahh, now that the reds from Joseph Roty have hit, what more can I say about the 2006 Joseph Roty Bourgogne Cuvee de Pressonier, it has exceeded my expectations from tasting it at the cellars of Roty in January. The vines are located in Gevrey Chambertin; part of them village level and part Bourgogne. But this is about as tasty a bottle of value Gevrey (it really drinks like village) you'll see and its a perfect indicator of just how good the 2006 reds are. If you don't buy some 2006 Red Burgs, you may be kicking yourself down the road...same as those who poo-poo'd the 2001 vintage. I won't discuss the other reds from Roty, as I don't want anyone buying them. There ain't much left and I sleep better at night knowing that they are still here!

JCB the 4th

A Digression..

Just a quick post to say that I made my debut on guitar this past weekend. Despite performing on stage as a vocalist for 20 (that's right, I said 20 for those not familiar with "Rock-n-Roll Joe") years, I haven't felt nerves like this since I first became a man at the not so tender age of 16. Talk about performance anxiety!

The show went off without a hitch, or at least that is the report that I have been given. And while my performance at 16 was way, way shorter, this one was pretty gratifying. I took guitar lessons as a 12 year old for about a year. But when my teacher insisted on showing me scales rather than how to play "Strutter" from Kiss, my enthusiasm waned. Fast forward to this past January and I made myself three tiny resolutions for the new year: learn French, drink more Italian reds this year (check) and pick up the guitar. Since my 11 year old son, Isaiah, has been playing for a year and a half now, I have been inspired to do the same. Every time he'd came over, I'd pick up his guitar and noodle around. In February, I bought a Fender Telecaster (Burgundy colored of course) and started hacking away. And now "Crazy Little Thing Called Love" will always have a special place in my heart. Just like that first time...

JCB the 4th

Viva Italia! - The "Grown Folks Zone"

Without question, the one place in the world of wine that use to mean nothing to me was the wines of Italy. I'll chalk it up to one part ignorance, and two parts immaturity. While I'm still pretty immature in some ways, (like my love for peanut butter & jelly sandwiches on wheat bread) when it comes to Italian wines, I have come into the "grown folks zone". By that, I mean the period when you wise up, and learn that its not all about T & A. And that a little age isn't necessarily a bad thing. Kinda like the difference between Justin Timberlake "Sexy Back" and Marvin Gaye's "Let's Get It On". Need I say more?

Italian wines always struck me as hard and fruit-less when I was a littler in the wine world. These days, I drink them more than wines from any other country and that includes my beloved France or more specifically, Burgundy. The value can be staggering. I'm in love with little Dolcetto's with pizza, Barbera's with pork and Chianti Classico with Bolognese. And let's not forget the whites, like Verdicchio and Pigato, San Zuan and Vermentino, perfect for quaffing and superb with seafood. In the land of a thousand grapes, the list is endless.

Sometimes patience is required for the more noble wines like Barolo and Brunello to come into their own. But isn't that what being a "grown folk" is all about? Wisdom, patience, knowledge, understanding...

Dim the lights, and let's put on some Marvin, cook up some pasta and open a bottle of Bonarda from Oltrepo Pavese. Who says getting older isn't fun?

JCB the 4th

Sweatin' the Small Stuff

Happy Easter! My apologies for the long delay between posts. Life intervenes times a slight malaise equals no output. Which brings us to this holiday thought...

I try to make it a point of never forgetting about the inexpensive wine. If you are a 56 devotee,(which I hope you are if you're reading this) you know we call these Cellar Defenders. It describes the wine equivelent of a "defense" against constantly raiding ones cellar and consuming all the collectibles at breakneck speed. I am often guilty of not having Cellar Defenders handy, but sometimes it's a joy to be "forced" into opening something special at a not-so-special moment. It can make a night.

So as I enjoyed my Easter dinner at my fathers house, without wine, I returned to my Montclair lair and opened a bottle of 2005 Chateau Lauriol Cotes de Francs made by the Stephane Derononcourt and the Thienpont family of Vieux Chateau Certan and Le Pin fame. This wine is so delicious, that it re-affirms my faith in inexpensive wine. Not that my faith has ever waivered but everyone needs afirmation. God bless drinkable, juicy Bordeaux that is less than $20. So drinkable that it doesn't even require food right now. It's that lovable.

I went to dinner at Culinariane in Montclair on Thursday Night with one of our clients. I brought a 1996 Marquis d'Angerville Volnay Les Taillepieds 1er cru that was about as pure a wine as you'll ever encounter. I was in ecstasy. I'm getting NEARLY as much joy from this little Cotes de Francs tonight. The former wine is about $100 and the latter is $19.50. Value is alive and well people! Ya gotta just know where to look.

JCB the 4th

Need Further Proof? Please Meet Bert...

In the very first post of my blog, I documented the psychic abilities of my Ipod. For lack of a better name, let's call him Bert. I dunno why, it just seems to fit. Like a laser beam from a starship, his intuition to selecting musical accompaniment to wines is uncanny. Bert knows when to show restraint, when to pounce and when to surf the middle ground like a champion. So it was with great anticipation that I put Bert through the paces at an industry tasting this week. The excitement was fevered!


I entered Cru, a bastion of colossal wines with equally colossal prices as it was the site of the Liz Willette tasting. Liz is a wonderful lady and I'm told her company began when one of her best friends married Jean Louis Chave. Talk about being in the right place at the right time. Regardless, her palate and stable of producers are very fine indeed. I walked up to my sales rep and personal wine god, Doug, to sample a bit of White Burgundy. While the wines didn't "wow" me at first, I did notice Bert shift into overdrive as I sipped the Vincent Mothe Chablis Bougros Grand Cru, diving into Queen's "Barcelona". Of course, it would be an obvious choice for something from Catalan... a Priorat perhaps, but the majesty of Freddie Mercury and the layers the musical tapestry create are perfection with Grand Cru Chablis. Yes, I sense this will be a good day.

Sliding over to Kellen Lignier, the now winemaker/proprietor of Lucie et Auguste Lignier, I delved into a few offerings of the domaine, and some with a bit of bottle age. Like clockwork, Bert changed the game with Jay-Z's "30 Something". Let's face it...thirty's the new 20 and 40 is definitely the new 30. This 40 yr old still feels vibrant, just like Kellen's 2002 Gevrey Chambertin. Smokin'!

One more pitstop at the Champagne table brought new jams. The NV Le Brun Servenay Brut Selection was mesmerizing and sassy, so I felt Bert's selection of Kelis' "Milkshake" an intriguing choice. An enticing bubbly for an enticing song...just makes you wanna go nuts. And I think that was his intention all along, that rascal!

JCB the 4th

I'm Jazzed About...

These have all been tasted in the last few days and are wicked good, hella-tasty and stupid-fresh!

2004 Kientzler Riesling Gaisberg Grand Cru - We haven't seen hide nor hare of this wine in over a year and I'm yearning for the measly 3 cases to arrive next week. Riddiculously wonderful Alsatian Riesling that is textured, fine and precise.

2006 Yves Cuilleron Condrieu "Vertige" - Someone told me that Cuilleron's Condrieu Vertige is oaky. I beg to differ. This wine is lithe and mineral and really doesn't display a trace of oak. It's so long on the palate, it could block Kobe Bryant driving through the lane. A dynamic, soaring Viognier that is a great wine, period! I adored it.

2007 Vaona Valpolicella Classico - You pour this into a glass and think its light color is going to lead to a thin, flavorless wine. Nothing could be further from the truth. Opened and consumed over 3 days (I know, shameful...I'm sorry) this is Pinot Noir-ish in its ethereal-ness. Just gets better with more air. This can't be beat for just $17.

2004 Ada Nada Barbaresco "Elisa" - Can someone please not buy all of this so fast? I didn't even get a bottle of the 2001! Superb Nebbiolo in the most classic sense with all the rusticity I love and just enough ripe, forward fruit to satisfy those with a more New World palate. An absolute steal for $42! 56 followers, this offering is coming on Monday.

1998 Joseph Roty Gevrey Chambertin La Brunelle - If there is something more beautiful than ready to drink, perfectly aged Burgundy, I suppose I have not really lived up until this point. Soft fragrant, strawberry, spice, saddle leather, incense and love. Sorry, we sold out of this eons ago but the good news is the 2006's are coming in April (I tasted them all at Roty's cellars) and with a little patience, they'll be as divine as this 1998. Lovely wine and thanks for opening it, Nita!

Drink something good this weekend, people...

JCB the 4th

Pha-Pha-Phooey! The Problem with Wine Ratings...

Shout out to Howard, one of my heroes...

Ah, wine ratings, they make the whole wine world go round. Or do they?

There is no denying the power and influence of the wine press on the drinking habits of the populus. The Honorable Chris Cree tells us that there was once a time when wine merchants tasted and bought what they liked, and didn't have to purchase a palate of shlock to get a case of something highly regarded. Must have been before I was born. I recall a distributor telling me that unfortunately, in order to have the "privilige" of purchasing some fairly well regarded Burgundies, I would need to order 10 cases of a $100 per bottle California Cabernet that is quite honestly, pedestrian at best. I wonder if that hard working Burgundian farmer knows that is the way the game is played in NJ?

But back to the numbers. No doubt that if one lived in a non-cosmopolitan area where pickins are slim, a guide to what is good in wine can be helpful. I also can appreciate Robert Parker's palate. While very different from my own, his is consistently accurate in the sense that the wines he loves have a common thread and if you like the style, he's an excellent barometer. My problem lies with wine merchants who are either inexperienced, under-educated or just flat out too damn lazy to get out there and decide for themselves. When did wine shops just decide to hang a WS 94 on the shelf and sell based solely on that, having never tasted the wine at all? When and in what other business can you know nothing at all about the product you sell? How about that same wine that got 94 points in the previous example the following year gets 89? Let's see how easy it is to sell it now! Unless we're talking about Bordeaux en primeur, the price ain't going down. Why would the customer buy it for the same price or more when it's obviously an inferior product to the previous vintage? Or maybe it's not inferior but just different. Another rant on that subject at a later date...

Folks, wine is not a sport. It never has been and it never should be. We just don't keep score. Can you imagine an art conversation like, "Well, Sherman, the Mona Lisa is clearly a 99 pointer while Whistler's Mother is merely just a 93!" Crazy, right? Wine is truly an agricultural product that is an art form with no equal on earth. It is a beverage that rightfully so, is the compliment to a meal that offers the person enjoying it to fine tune and elevate the food and the wine through the symbiotic pairing. Wine can lift your spirits and it can transcend your mood. My favorite nights to open a great bottle are never holidays, birthdays or special occasions. I much prefer to decide to prepare something simple but flavorful on a Tuesday, open one singular great bottle, and let that and the food be the "Starlet Johanssen" of the evening. Sexy, right?

Please leave the point scoring to LeBron and leave the artistry to the artisans. Thanks.

JCB the 4th

Gettin' High on Your Own Supply...

No, I ain't talkin' about a Cheech & Chong moment. Quite honestly, that practice has never done a thing for me. Like my man Slick Willie Clinton, I only did it once and I didn't inhale. And yes, it was because of a girl when I was a youngin'. Sadly, like Slick Willie, "Ah did not have sexual relations with that woman!" The best laid plans...

What this is about is "What I'm drinking Lately", a frequent topic of discussion on my favorite wine chat board VinoCellar.com, started many years ago by a good friend of mine. Essentially, folks list all the great, awful and so-so wines they have tasted of late. Many like to rate them with scores (my harsh views on that topic upcoming) but most list what they drank and if it was ready or not. I drink many wines that we sell at 56 Degree Wine and you can always tell my favorite wines, by what I list at VinoCellar. Actually, the wines that I choose to cellar myself in my modest (by-wineguy-terms) 300 bottle collection are most often my absolute favorites from tastings. A recent raid of my wine fridge the last few weeks yielded these great results...

2007 Donnhoff Oberhauser Leistenberg Riesling Kabinett

2005 Jean Garaudet Monthelie

2006 Joseph Voillot Volnay Champans 1er cru

Each one was fantastic!

I try to do my best to squirrel away a few bottles of stuff here and there when my budget will allow it. But it is hard to watch all these great bottles of wine come into your "house" and then watch them go to other happy homes. A good wine buddy of mine once remarked, "You're so lucky! You get to touch all bottles that come in the store." But the first rule is "Don't get high on your own supply". Or else you will be broke with a kickin' collection of wine.

I can think of worse things.

JCB the 4th

Sinskey Is My Homeboy...

This photo is about more than a goofy tag line. It is a mock-up of a t-shirt I was going to have made to give to my girl, who is a #1 fan of the Vin Gris, a gorgeous rose of Pinot Noir made by Sinskey. It's flat out sexy wine, from its flute-shaped bottle to its pale, pink-tangerine hue. It just makes any summer night one to remember. Rob Sinskey is an icon to me; a man who blazes the path of organic wine grape growing and is now engrossed in bio-dynamics. His emphasis is deliciousness and balance, in that order. How can one not look up to a guy who ripped out all his Chardonnay to plant Pinot Blanc, Riesling, Pinot Gris and Gewurztraminer?

I happened to be fortunate enough to score an invite by Rob and Maria Sinskey to Hearth, the ultimate homey, comfort food mecca in New York City, this past Tuesday evening. The name of the event was Rob Sinskey's Electric P No Acid Test, a comparative tasting of Pinot Noir with great food in three flights containing four wines per flight, all wines from the 2005 vintage. In each quad grouping, there would be two Burgundies, one "cult" (this notion of cult wines makes me throw up a bit in my mouth) domestic Pinot and one made by Sinskey. As Rob explained, he didn't want anyone to necessarily score or rank the wines, but rather get the input of this talented group on terroir and acidity. We were left to the task of figuring out where each one was from. Over-generalizing, the end result was the "culty" wines stuck out like the steroid-sized behemoths they are, the Sinskey wines were ripe, balanced and juicy and the Burgundies were comme ci, comme ca, a hard statement to make for a hard-core Burg-nut. Some (Gouges Nuits St. Georges Clos Porrets St. Georges and Vincent Girardin Volnay les Caillerets) being sultry and wide open while others were shut down and locked up.

With a little bit of self-congratulation, I must admit that I went 12 for 12 in identifying the place of origin, even recognizing the Sinskey wines apart from the big-boy New World Pinots. In years past, a tasting like this with a roomful of gifted sommeliers and winemakers would have made me nervous to give my opinion out loud, lest I screw up. I knew they would go back to their respective restaurants and wineries saying, "Man, I just went to this event with a guy from 56 Degree Wine and jeez, was he clueless!" But maybe I've garnered enough experience (or I just don't give a damn!) to be more comfortable in these situations. So much so, that I began to get a bit cocky, leaning toward Rob at one point saying, "Congratulations, on Wine #1 in the second flight. It's delicious!" Luckily, it was his Vandal Vineyard Pinot and it was magnificent. Just so I don't leave you with the impression that I can identify any wine with a sniff and a swirl, my Burgundy trip blind tastings in January probably left me batting about .200 in terms of guessing the place. And I had the benefit of knowing they were all Burgundies. Straddling the Mendoza line is as bad in baseball as it is in wine.

Back to the drawing board...

JCB the 4th

Dark Faces in Wine Places...

Why aren't there more black folks in wine?

We'll I'm here, although my whole life I have rarely been pegged as an African American, except by African-Americans. There's nothing more disturbing than having someone say something extremely racist in your presence since they don't think there are any of "those" people around. Used to happen to me fairly regularly as a kid, not so much as an adult. Skeeves me out just thinking back to the time, but I digress...

Set aside the socio-economic arguments, one would think that in 2009 the wine world would have at least a representative number of black wine professionals, but it's still a rarity from my viewpoint. Growing up, my parents didn't drink wine in any way, shape or form, so there was no precedence for my wine rearing. That may be a major reason why we don't see many people of color in the wine world, but there are, for instance, professional black hockey players. Don't know it for a fact but I'd bet their parents didn't grow up on skates. Here are a few wine professionals I know of...

Ruben Morancy - This gentleman is single-handedly responsible for my career. A Haitian man who speaks at least 5 languages fluently, he forced me to drink my first red wine against my will when I only would consume oaky Chardonnay. He then gave me an expensive, rare bottle of wine (1991 Dominus) to make sure I was completely drawn in to the passion of the grape. He's currently starting his own distribution company in California. Ruben, I owe you everything. Best of luck with the new company!

David Brown - I met David Brown of Brown Estate many years ago when I was just a wine fan at their home. I was just thrilled to see that an African American family owned vineyards in Napa. Then I tasted the wines and was equally thrilled by what was in the glass. I haven't tasted them in a while, so I should request some samples.

I met Andre Mac, the former sommelier at Per Se in New York City, once at an industry tasting at the restaurant. Seemed like a nice guy. I understand he's looking to make wine on his own. I wish him success. I also met quite a character, Mac MacDonald, of Vision Cellars recently as he visited us at 56 Degree Wine. He's a larger-than-life individual and his wines are a mirror image of his personality.

That's about it. Bummer.

JCB the 4th

Best of the Week - Feb 20th, 2009

A quick run down on the most notable wines I tasted this week...

2007 Georges Vernay Cotes du Rhone Sainte Agathe - This is gorgeous Syrah from vines around Condrieu. Really fragrant and a good barometer of how fantastic the 2007 vintage is in the Northern Rhone.

2006 Porter Creek Pinot Noir Fiona Hill Vineyard - Alex Davis really coaxes the true varietal character of Pinot Noir from this organic and biodynamically farmed site. Really impressive...

These are a couple that are arriving shortly...

2004 Ada Nada Barbaresco Elisa - Good lord, as good as the 2001 was (which we sold out of in a blink) this 2004 is so luscious, with the fruit more primary and prominent. We wanted more 2001 but I'm tickled that we're getting some 2004.

2006 Hirsch Vineyards Pinot Noir Sonomoa Coast - A deeply concentrated Pinot Noir that really has all the bells and whistles. Jasmine Hirsch came to visit and her family home vineyard site has superb terroir that any Pinot fan would enjoy.

The following were tasted via the generosity of one of my suppliers and good friend (Thanks DS)..

1988 Krug Brut
1990 Comtes Lafon Meursault Charmes 1er cru
1990 Domaine Leflaive Chevalier Montrachet Grand Cru
1990 Domaine de Montille Pommard Pezerolles 1er cru
1990 Marquis d'Angerville Volnay Clos des Ducs 1er cru
1990 Dujac Clos de la Roche Grand Cru
1990 Armand Rousseau Chambertin Clos de Beze Grand Cru
1990 Quinterelli Recioto della Valpolicella

Life...is...beautiful

JCB the 4th

So You Wanna Be International like Jay Beezee, eh?

Believe me, (and no one does) it's not easy being a professional pig. Everyone says, "Ohh, tough job you have there, jetting around the world, drinking wine everyday, eating in great restaurants constantly. Where do I sign up for that?" Well, all I can say is, "Be careful what you wish for."

Do I love my job? Absolutely!

Would I trade it for any other profession? No way, Jose! Unless I can be a professional golfer or poker-pro, but they've got drawbacks too.

So what is so difficult about what you do? Well, ya got a minute...

No one wants to hear me whine and I swore this blog would be a no whining zone, but here goes nothing. If one wants to be a true connoisseur of gluttony, you better have the constitution for a day like this....

7am - Wake up

7:45 - Breakfast in lobby of hotel. Usually the local goodies, croissant, cafe noir, yogurt and pain. If in Spain, maybe a little cortado and tortilla. If in Italy, stick to a great coffee and a less stellar croissant. They suck at breakfast.

8:15 - Drive to vineyard

8:45 - Arrive at vineyard. Oh and I forgot to mention that we always travel in January/February. The producers have time, the importers have $ and we are slower during those months making it easier to block the time. So suffice it to say that it's freezin' ass cold out.

9am - Walk the vineyards.
10am - View the winery (yes, that was one hour in the cold)

10:15 - See the cellar and taste barrel samples. Sometimes up to 40 samples, many times the same wine from differing tanks and casks. Often they are in the middle of malolactic fermentation, so it's like having a little bacterial science project going on in your stomach, even though you're spitting every drop.

11:30 - Lunch -- oh, not just a little sandwich, but a spread of 4-6 courses over a 3 1/2 hour span so you can test drive the producers wines with food, quite honestly, the way they should be. It's the way the end user (you) will enjoy them so you want to see how these puppies perform.

3:30 - Drive to next vineyard

4:30pm - Arrive at vineyard and stand outside for another hour among the vines, see the winery, taste another 40 or so samples and arrive at...

7:30pm - Dinner. Where you will indulge at somewhere between a great local haunt to a gorgeous Michelin starred restaurant. The food is always outstanding. So much so that it is often difficult to stop eating until all 6 plates presented are clean. Don't forget the cheese course and dessert. The best meals are those at producers homes when you get a great classic home cooked meal of an indigenous nature. Often there will be back vintages of the producers best to enjoy as almost all of them are a generous lot. One caveat, if this is Spain you must shift two hours ahead. The Spanish refuse to eat before 10pm, but they do take a siesta, those cheaters!

11:30pm - Head to hotel
12:30am - Back in hotel room.

Sounds fun, right! Ok, now go back to the 7am part and repeat this schedule for six to nine days in a row and then roll (and I do mean roll) yourself to the airport, fly back home and make the adjustment to eating like a normal human being. This sound like vacation, but if I'm a bit tired on day 3, I can't say, "I'm gonna skip Domaine Du-du today and catch up with you guys tomorrow." I owe it to my boss, the importers and the producers to be "on" at all times and give the attention to them and their wines that they deserve for providing me with these experiences that I can in turn share with clients and paint a picture that's as vivid and vivacious as the people who make these great wines.

Don't forget that there are three tasting appointments on the day of your return to the shop.

Yeah, booyyee!

JCB the 4th