Bask

Hand me the glass and let me bask

For not a drop will be forgotten nor will there be the waste of indifference

Swirl, release, anticipate, draw, inhale, envelope, contemplate all the profundities brought to you

Embrace

Let the dance of every facet move you far from alacrity

Relinquish, revel and bask

JCB the 4th

No Rain In Spain...Its Anything But Plain

Hoping like hell for a reprieve from the blast that descended upon NY/NJ this winter, I was pleasantly surprised and mildly shocked that a balmy 60 degrees greeted me at the Barcelona Airport with a warm embrace. The trip was a whirlwind, no doubt, but the first stop was absolutely unforgettable. Didier Soto (shown with his lovely wife, Nuria) saw a desheveled piece of property in the scrubby hills of Selva de Mar. Between the 1000 year old stone building they have made a home and the ampitheatre of vines terraced on the hillsides of the mountain-fortified bowl that encloses them, the Soto family have created a slice of heaven on earth. But this did not come without serious hard work for it is difficult to bring a run down vineyard back to life. Yet their way of life is simple...biodynamics flows through everything they do, from the vineyard management to the harvest, from the winemaking to the bottling. Phases of the moon, compost, "eye of newt and toe of frog" (thanks Willie) are more than just wine "hocus pocus". They really do work, not only reviving the soil but make amazing wines.

And make no mistake, these wines are amazing. The "Quindals", which is almost all Black Garnacha with a touch of Syrah and Carinena, is the more approachable red they produce with plenty of dark berries and spice tones abound. Shifting to the Vinya Selva de Mar 2004, Didier explains the blend shows a greater percentage of Syrah (30%) and Carinena (20%) with the wine showing more structure, power and packing more concentration. It is so thought-provoking and introspective, a wine that woos you with whispers rather than flash. These wines defy definition. The are typical of a Priorat blend yet they bear no resemblance to those wines whatsoever, being far too mineral and not as flashy. One then thinks of Chateauneuf du Pape, but they don't deliver the same racy raspberry tones nor do they ever show heat. They truly are like no other wines on earth...ah, maybe just a direct reflection of their unique terroir. Isn't that refreshing?

We were blessed to host Didier this past week for an event at Equus Tavern in Bernardsville with the super talented chef, Paul Viggiano, making a magnificent meal to pair with Didier's wines. The night contained so many laughs and such a great vibe that it is almost hard to describe it all. Didier, ever the colorful character, made the evening come to life without hardly speaking. Twas anything but plain for sure...

JCB the 4th

Trainwrecks, Shangri-La and Big Baby Jesus...

Like Weezer's "Trainwrecks" notes, I have severely neglected this blog. I'll make a pre-New Years resolution to be more prolific. Don't worry, I still love you...

The Italy Deathride commenced in August leading up to Labor Day and was exactly what it sounds like. My man, Enrico Battisti knows how to show you the Italian countryside...the ENTIRE Italian countryside in just 5 days. We whizzed around from Rome to Lazio to Marche (complete with 1am tour of the winery) to Tuscany to Liguria to Piedmont. It was an eye-opening experience with one particular spot truly grabbing my heart.

While I loved Montalcino and will always consider Piedmont my heart, I was absolutely smitten with Liguria and a trip to Poggio dei Gorlieri. Ok, so a three-hour stop for a little sun on the beach in Varigotti certainly helped recharge the weary batteries. But then we climb this amazing hill to find the 30 year old vines of Vermentino, Pigato and Ormeasco (clone of Dolcetto) carefully tended by Davide Merano. This place is like Shangri-La, a spit-shined clean small operation with an agritourismo (lovely Italian B-n-B attached to the winery) that overlooks the Ligurian Sea in the most majestic of fashions. I had such warm feelings being there that I am determined to visit again this summer on my own. Wanna join me?



Davide makes gorgeous Vermentino and a very fun, funky Ormeasco, but Pigato rules the roost here. The Poggio dei Gorlieri Cyncus is like drinking great 1er cru Chablis, all briny and mineral with citrus fruit cocktail, orange peel and sea salt. He made us Paella to enjoy with it, not because it is traditional in Liguria (although the loads of prawns in it are) but because it just works to perfection. This is magnificent wine (Tre Bicchieri winner if that stuff gets your juices flowing) and solid Cellar Defender stuff that just makes any seafood dish snap to life.


Finally, I just re-discovered ODB. Man, I miss this mad genius and can't seem to shake him out of my Ipod. Some think he was crazy, I just think he was tortured and extremely calculating. Gone too soon...give the album, "N****, Please", a listen if you want to wrap your mind around the rantings of a nutcase. It's fascinating and booty shaking stuff!


Merry Christmas, Happy Holidays and All That,


JCB the 4th

Yo! Bum Rush the Show!

A routine Friday night and asked to deliver wine to a client after a long and busy day in the shop. Nothing really out of the ordinary here. Grab the 3 cases and jump into my car. The client (let's call him Jack X) lives about ten minutes from my apartment so its really no inconvenience at all...except for the fact that I was dog tired having run up and down the steps at 56 probably 56 times at minimum. 7pm shadow in full effect and adorned in a thermal shirt, jeans, black polar fleece and black skull cap, I certainly looked more 50 Cent than wine director. Pull in the driveway and grab one of the boxes from my trunk and spot a man having a cigarette in the back yard. As I approach, he gives me a look like I was carrying a gat as opposed to two magnums of Elio Grasso Barolo Runcot. I ask, "Is Jack here?" He motions to the sliding glass doors where I see six or seven men laughing in the kitchen. I enter and Jack X yells out, "Joe! Fantastic! You have to stay!" Now, I know two of the gentlemen there and the others both give me the same look as the one outside. File this under, "When you dress like a hood rat, don't be surprised when folks in beautiful homes give you odd stares when you waltz into their party"...

I tell J-X, "No, really, I have to go," knowing that I'm neither daisy fresh nor really in the mood to be charming or even social. He insists, "No, you have to stay! I had a cancellation and we're blind tasting a ton of wines!" Once again, I tell him that I really can't. "Nonsense! Here!" He whips out two Champagne flutes with the quickness of a gazelle. "In your left hand is 93 Dom Perignon and in your right hand is 96 Dom. Just a warm up and everything else served will be blind. We've got 23 wines open! We need help drinking all this!"

1993 and 1996 Dom? Really? Ok, I'm staying for a while.

I run off to the bathroom and try to clean up a bit. I meet everyone there. A lovely bunch of wine fiends who have a local blind tasting group. Each month or so, a different gentlman hosts and provides the wine and food. J-X did it to the max! We tasted the following blind flights with J-X's titles...

First Flight - Red Burgundy - Hard to Find Vintage Variations
1955 Charles Vienot Richebourg Grand Cru (no misprint, 1955!)
1995 Haegelen-Jayer Clos de Vougeot Grand Cru
2005 Armand Rousseau Gevrey Chambertin Lavaux St. Jacques 1er cru

Second Flight - Chateauneuf du Papes - The Single Varietal King
2000 Chateau Rayas
2006 Chateau Rayas

Third Flight - Chateauneuf du Papes - The King of Blended Chateauneuf du Papes
1985 Beaucastel
1989 Beaucastel
1994 Beaucastel

Dinner Break - Special Guest Tony Grande, Executive Chef and Owner of Il Capriccio
Cooking Demonstration - Taglierini with White Truffle followed by Pan Seared Lamb Chops with Dr. John's Rosemary. Paired with 2001 Cappellano Barolo Otin Fiorin from MAGNUM.

As for the blind tasting, I think I fared well. I guessed the first flight as Burgundy correctly, although the Rousseau had me thinking Oregon Pinot due to its youth and twiggy personality. The second flight I thought was Chateauneuf UNTIL Tony X said to me, "Joe, you've been to this place! You know these wines!" Having never been to the Rhone ever (don't know why he thought I had) I adjusted my guess to Burgundy, the only appellation I have visited. Stick with your instincts is the lesson here. The third was a "banker" as Chris Cree would say...clearly aged Chateauneuf and probably my favority flight, as I am a huge Beaucastel fan. At this point, satiated and saturated with great wines and glorious food, I profusely thanked everyone and took my leave. They on the other hand had other plans, as they were just hitting third gear. I missed a flight of Chilean Bordeaux Blends, aged California Cult Cabernets, dessert of Strawberries Sabayon and finally 1995 Chateau d'Yquem and 1959 Chateau Climens. Wow!

JCB the 4th

The Return of the Wine Gangster...

Thought I was gone for good, didn't cha?

No folks, I'm making a return to Le Monstre, motivated to shake up the wine world with passion, emotion, braggadocio and posturing. But with a smile on my face to let you know that I love you.

So much wine over the past three months since last we ran across one another...so much so that I couldn't begin to dig through my Crackberry and give you the laundry list. I made a five day super quick excursion to Italy, on which I will report about more in my next post. The latest wine that is stuck in my head is a dazzlingly fascinating 2008 Knoll Loibner Riesling Federspiel that was cracked open yesterday. I can't stop thinking about how it roared out of the glass and damn near pistol whipped me with tropical fruit, minerals and spice until I wanted to curl up in a ball and cry for my mommy. It was intense like Ice Cube was in Boyz in the Hood. But like the character he played, Doughboy, this wine has heart and soul. We get very little. You heard it hear first. I'm gettin' mine now. Enough said...

If I never hear the term "vintage of the century" again, I believe I will have a better, more rewarding and fuller life. Why would such a perturbing little term allow me to blossom as a human being? Because every time I hear it, I want to physically throw up. I'm not kidding. I want to run to the bathroom and vomit until nothing is left as it makes me nauseous. The idea that a great, all-time classic vintage can come once every three years for marketing purposes makes the blood boil, my hairs stand up on the back of my neck (I know--none left on my head--very funny) and most likely makes my cholesterol level rocket. I know I shouldn't let it bother me but honestly there is too much emphasis on wanting ONLY the best vintages and WAAAAYYY too many instances where the supposed "throw away" vintage makes you weep with its loveliness. That is why we taste...that is why we enjoy the wine for what it is...that is why we don't bother with numbers but rather with art form.

JCB the 4th

A Look Into the 56 Future to Find Whites

As I peer into my crystal ball...I see dead people!

Sorry, wrong movie--this is the crystal ball of 56 Degree Wine, so now I present a preview of next weeks' offerings; the summer's hottest selections of white wines from the hottest (coldest) shop in the entire world...

St. Aubin from Didier Larue - If you've been reading this blog for a while, you know that I've got a serious Jones for Didier Larue's wines. In particular, his 2008's are clearly the best St. Aubin wines I've ever tasted. I thought so when I first got a glimpse of them in barrel during my 2009 visit to the winery and the extra year plus has only solidified my notions. The two jewels in his considerable crown must be En Remilly and Murgers des Dents de Chiens. These wines encompass everything I love about Burgundy. They have the definition of Angelina Jolie's silhouette coupled with the buxom layers of voluptuousness that make it sex in a glass. But this is no tart; these wines are all class, with a sense of the regal and an elegance that belies bombast. In short, I adore them...

Huet - While I know the name Huet is synonymous with greatness, saying that you love their Vouvray is not exactly breaking new ground. They have been the greatest of Loire estates for a very, very long time. But a recently shared bottle of their 2008 Vouvray Sec Clos du Bourg left me shaking my head. I could hardly contain myself with the burgeoning pattering in my chest that grew to a raucous thump. I fell in love with Chenin all over again, and I know that there is not another bone-dry expression of the grape that is better than this. And the best part is that it will set you back just $33 per bottle. Amazing that you can get the greatest example for such a small tariff, but indeed it is true.

JCB the 4th

Puligny Montrachet at the Expense of Civilization

I'm back, mutha's!

And I've been drinking only the good stuff. I'll get more creative with my next post as I have some seriously wacko stuff running around my head that needs to get out lest I have a brain infarction. In the meantime, check out these tasty morsels, some of which can be had at your friendly neighborhood 56 Degree Wine...

2009 Ameztoi Txacoli de Getaria - super-limey, taut and mineral white made from partially red grapes from the back water Basque country in Spain. Poured from high with a special apparatus to froth it up in a tumbler, this is about as niche-y as it gets and MY summer white of choice this year and forever more...unless some decides to start selling Puligny Montrachet for $22...which would mean the end of the world is near...and I'd be drinking my sorrows away at our destruction...it's not worth it...I'll stick with Txacoli.

1997 Chateau d'Yquem from 375ml

2001 Giacosa Barbaresco Falletto White Label

2009 Txomin Etxaniz Txacoli de Getaria

1990 Chateau Montelena Cabernet Sauvignon Estate Napa Valley

NV Jacques Selosse Champagne Blanc de Blanc Substance

2000 Jean Boillot Puligny Montrachet Les Perrieres 1er cru

2006 Bernard Morey Chassagne Montrachet Les Embrazees 1er cru

2001 Marc Colin Chassagne Montrachet Les Caillerets 1er cru

2005 Fichet Meursault Les Gruyaches

2005 Kistler Chardonnay Stone Flat Parmalee Hill

--Yes, I'm well aware that there are two California wines (Montelena was monumental with a 3 inch Porterhouse) in that list drank not under duress or at gunpoint and no, I'm not changing teams...gotta spread the love a little...now gimme back my Chorey les Beaune!--

NV Laurent Dauphin Champagne Brut Tradition - Not sure if this is economic downturn, euro-sliding, pricing error or just dumb luck, but I can't for the life of me figure out how this label says its from Champagne but it's only $28 per bottle. A dry, but mouthfilling and lively bubbly that drinks like a wine that costs WAY more, this is value Champers that defies the odds. Oh, how I love GREAT and CHEAP!

JCB the 4th

Its the Wines You Love to Hate...

Feel free to comment on your concurring/disagreement with my notion that these are the worst grapes in the world...and pictured is the soon to be member of this countdown, my grapevine bonsai that will one day produce a thimble of wine which will chart on this list.

5 - Cabernet Sauvignon - Before you start the chant to have me stoned in the village, I'll preface this by saying that this falls more under the category of overrated in my mind, rather than just god-awful. Left Bank Bordeaux certainly need not apply, as well as our California brethren that get it right and don't let their wines taste like some candy-coated exaggeration of the grape. But since Cabernet Sauvignon is seemingly grown in every nook-n-cranny, it has a target. I taste these wines on the regular and there are so many examples of greenish or flabby or overoaked versions of this grape that it often bears no resemblance whatsoever to the originator. I mean, we're talking about a LOT of wine here.

4 - Furmint - This grape is really awful and oh so appropriately named. It really does taste like fur and mint. Mmm, doesn't that sound delicious?

3 - Carmenere - I'm still at a loss to understand why these wines from Chile hold so much favor with the wine public. I'll admit that this is really more an indictment of Chilean wines in general than so much on this grape but they go hand in hand. Usually stalky and funky, these wines are grown on the wet side of the Andes...a fact that is hard to deny and equally difficult to recover from no matter how much oak you apply.

2 - Savagnin - This is the grape of Jura that makes that super-oxidative, trunk-o-funk wine that is almost brown and tastes like a hairball. I think I just threw up in my mouth a little.

1 - Pinotage - So firmly entrenched as the most awful grape in the world, that there is really nothing else to look at. For I would rather grab a glass and put one ounce each of a Jura, Carmenere, Furmint and Cabernet Sauvignon, stir it and drink it down rather than suffer the pain of Pinotage. Seriously, what knucklehead thought it would be a good idea to cross Pinot Noir (the greatest grape on earth, unquestionably) with Cinsault. Just the idea is preposterous! This filthy, vile grape is like drinking faint berry toned sod with pepper, bitters and farmers armpit after a hot day amongst the vines. It's clearly the worst grape in the world.

JCB the 4th

It's All About the Jackson's!

I'm back, people!

And I'm ready to spit all the wildness that has been building in my head. Through tragedy ALWAYS comes triumph. Don't forget it...there's serenity in the notion.

Speaking of notions, when did the wine landscape become so cavernous that this jewel of juicy joy from Saumur had been kept away from so many for so long. It is none other than the 2008 Lydie et Thierry Chancelle Saumur Blanc and it is here to ravage you.

Chenin Blanc is the grape that polarizes many but in the hands of an artisan with great vineyards, I defy you to not recognize and behold the wonder in the glass. I could go on and on for days about the bounty of citrus, stones, lemon/limes (call it li-mon), minerals, white corn and saltiness superior, but I won't... Oops! Well, I guess I just did! No, this won't set you back like Bienvenue Batard or even village Meursault. This cup-runneth-over-with-love white will cost you just an old wrinkled photo of Andrew Jackson, nothing more. I know...you're welcome...twas my pleasure as always...

Next on the hit list--the varietals I love to hate.

JCB the 4th

Poetry, Gibberish or Maniac Musings...You Decide

Another
Bembry
Controversy…
Disingenuous
Enological
Forms
Growing
Hella (exponentially)
In
Jeopardy!
Knocking
Le
Monstre’s
Nausea
Over
Poofy
Quaffs &
Ridiculous
Styling (is)
Thrusting
Unsuspecting
Venom (to)
Wild
Xenophobes
Yearning (for)
Zen

JCB the 4th

In Memorium

Joseph Clinton Bembry III

November 23rd 1941 - April 25th 2010

The Greatest Man I've Ever Known

Le Monstre returns full force tomorrow.

JCB the 4th

Let Me Talk Oeschle To You, Baby!

I'm going to over-generalize here, as I've been known to do a couple hundred times. Riesling is the least appreciated grape on Wine Planet Earth and I am at a loss to completely understand it. Well maybe not a total loss. Leave it to the Germans to make the classification system as complicated, verbose and consonant-laden as possible. It's almost as if there is a secret language to the wines that has no root system, an utter and complete vinous mystery that is purposely being perpetrated upon us and they're laughing. Those bastards are laughing at our ignorance. Hawk-ptoo! We're being spat at!

But it's not as cumbersome as you'd think and there is more to Riesling than Germany, residual sugar and the Oeschle scale. Let's stick with Germany for now, it's QbA wines--your garden variety basic Riesling from any region--are picked first, tend to have very little sweetness and are easy on the wallet. After that, if you see Kabinett on the label, its picked next, a touch sweeter. Then the Spatlese (my "sweet spot" for age-worthy killer wines that aren't super-expensive) and finally Auslese. As you go up the classifications, you tend to go up the sweet-o-meter, also know as the Oeschle scale or must weight measurer. And herein lies the issue. Somewhere along the line, the public got the ill-advised word that residual sugar in a wine is gross, repugnant, flat-out tacky and passe. "Who me? I only drink dry wines. Might as well drink White Zinfandel, you ignoramus, and while your at it, comb your mullet and enjoy that homemade sleeveless flannel shirt of yours, heathen!" And it actually is gross without that four letter word that I love so dear. You know...acid! Oh yeah, these wines have so much acid that sometimes I think there is a hippy in the bottle. It keeps the wines so fresh and so clean like Outkast and allows them to age gracefully like Raquel Welch. And let's not forget food. If you're going for Thai, Indian, Chinese, Ethiopian or just about any other lovely 3rd World cuisine, you better have a tall skinny bottle in tow. Oh, did I mention that most of these wines age forever too. Riesling is perfection, people!

But Germany is just the tip of the iceberg. World class Rieslings can be had from Austria and Alsace and a plethora a brilliant wines come from Australia, Italy, California, Oregon, Washington, New Zealand and South Africa. Even Tasmania, as evidenced by our outstanding Wine of the Month selection for April, the 2006 Moorilla Riesling. It's just off dry, has a touch of bottle age and is a shockingly wonderful example of the grape in its unabashed nakedness. Want to try this wine and many more covering the entire range of all Riesling can be? Just sign up for our 3rd Annual "Unbearable Lightness of Riesling" Festival Vol. 3 on Sunday April 25th at 252 Restaurant in Bedminster, NJ. It will be an outstanding day and it just might be the Riesling epiphany that you've spent your whole life searching for.

JCB the 4th

Frothing at the Mouth - Subtle Wine Diversion of April 2010

It's readily apparent. Le Monstre has been ornery as all get out lately. But it ain't all my fault. Pressure mounts and manifests itself in sometimes obvious but often ridiculous ways...

- If I have been testy of late, my grandmother is the queen of cantankerous. I had the pleasure of Easter Sunday dinner with her just recently. While she doesn't get around as well as she used to (70 years of smoking and 50 years of knocking back Wild Turkey will do that to you) she still has the gift of gab and knows exactly how to cut someone to their core. In the same breath that she fawned over my son, she barked out orders to the "kitchen staff"--i.e. my mother and I, that the food was not ready at the exact time we anticipated and she was done waiting. Once the food came out, a similar refrain was handed down when the strawberry shortcake had not been assembled 5 minutes after dinner was consumed. At least she had the decency to complement the wine I brought, the 2001 Lopez de Heredia Rioja Reserva Vina Bosconia, although she only had a taste. I adore the stuff and its the perfect elixir for grumpy grandmoms on a holiday.

- As has been documented but I try to conceal, lest my wine cred be completely tarnished, I am a singer in a band. Mainly we play in clubs for the complete joy and a couple bucks but we have been known to do a few wedding gigs in our time. This past weekends escapades were epic, as the wedding coordinator at the gestapo-like run country club we performed at were mind-boggling. Making corny announcements like, "Welcome to the legendary Blank-blank Country Club" were annoying but when the coordinator gave me the wrong order of the wedding party, barked five contrary orders of what/when we should play within a span of 2 minutes and re-arranged the timing of the entire event to the point of agony made my blood boil. The final coup de grace that sent me over the top was that the band was not to use the bathroom in the lobby where the guests were. OH HELL NO! That was it! I'm dressed in a suit like anyone else here! What is this...Jim Crow laws? I told the guys in the band that I'm taking a leak in the lobby and that if anyone says a word to me that the gig is over. Try explaining to the bride and groom (who were lovely, by the way) that the band got kicked out for using the wrong potty.

- Jim Nantz was irritating as hell today while watching the Masters coverage. All praise due to champion Mill Pickleson, but if I hear Nantz bring up one more time Tiger Woods "swearing" on the golf course during the 3rd round, I'm gonna puke. After hitting a poor shot on the 6th hole, Mr. Woods said, "Tiger, you suck! Goddamn it!" Nantz obviously wants to subtly pile on the Worlds #1 for his indiscretions. It's not like he mooned the crowd or dropped an F-bomb! And what golfer in the world hasn't said something like that before? I know I have and I'm certainly not out there playing for a major championship. I'm just trying to keep Laurent Chapuis from making me buy him a burger.

Now here's some good news... A few wines I've had lately that have made me swoon!

2006 Robert Sinskey Merlot Los Carneros - Finishing off the last of the Strike wines, this offering from the organic master has softened and beautifully integrated as of late. Delish!

2007 Paul Pernot Puligny Montrachet - Well made, fragrant White Burgundy that's even better when not poured into a musty stem.

NV Parigot & Richard Cremant de Bourgogne Rose - This is really one of the best deals in the store for Rose Champagne-like character at a wallet friendly price. So easy to drink and extremely versatile...

Thanks for letting me vent.

JCB the 4th

Bubbles, Bosconia & Bordeaux for Bembry!

Recent excursions show that I'm drinking very, very well right now. Just look at this smile I've got while my son snaps a photo of me at Raymond's while wearing his new shades and waiting for breakfast last Sunday. He had it up on Facebook in seconds yet I still have a smile. It can only mean one thing. With the Strike behind me and now free to sample all of the wine worlds delights, these were the latest and greatest...

1998 Le Brun Servenay Champagne Brut Vielles Vignes Avize - Rich and round and filled to the hilt with apples on steroids, this is hedonistic, luscious bubbles that was downed at breakneck speed. I've been called a Champagne whore in the past and I consider it a compliment...

NV Gatinois Brut Ay from 375ml - further evidence of previous statement.

1999 Hubert Lignier Morey St. Denis La Riotte 1er cru

2001 Lopez de Heredia Rioja Vina Bosconia - If there is a better $35 Rioja than this that is equally suited for the classic and new school palate alike, I'll eat live carpenter ants! So bold and flavorful, one can hardly contain the reckless abandon that this wine gives off. But this wine is no floozy! It's contemplative, coaxing, complex and compelling. Truly divine!

2005 Chateau Les Hauts d'Aglan Cahors - Argentine Malbec lovers need apply, this ratchets up the volume with the blackest fruit you can muster in a small package. If you don't mind a little tannin (or you consume it the way you should with a steak) you are in for a ridiculous value for just $17.

2006 Moorilla Riesling Tasmania - That's right, Tasmania! You can't believe it? Neither can I, but I guarantee that if you close your eyes and take a whiff, you might think Prum first and Aussie last. Absolutely love the little petrol development on the aromatics, this is just off-dry and just dying to be consumed with your Easter ham.

Finally, last night I went to the Essex Wine Society's 1989 Bordeaux Tasting. Now you know that me and Bordeaux have this love/whatever type relationship but a well stored and well aged claret is truly a thing to behold. The wines, in order tasted (blind), with my favorites highlighted...

1989 Beychevelle St. Julien
1989 St. Pierre St. Julien
1989 Poujeaux Moulis en Medoc

1989 Meyney St. Estephe
1989 Montrose St. Estephe
1989 Le Gay Pomerol

1989 Pichon Lalande Paulliac - Best of the night. Amazing!
1989 Pichon Baron Paulliac
1989 Lynch Bages Paulliac

OK, it's time for some Vin Gris. Gimme, gimme!

JCB the 4th

Hypocrite to Hero - The Stream 3.25.10

I'm sorry.

I just couldn't keep up with the Merlot strike. I'm no Ghandi, no John Lennon. I really tried to hold off for the full 14 days. I love Merlot, really I do. But it began with a little Champagne. Doesn't it always? And then a little Puligny--and then finally Pinot Noir. So since my hypocrisy knows no bounds, I need to do something seriously big things to redeem myself. Here goes the stream...

-On April 8th, Sylvain Bzikot is gracing us with his considerable light as we delve into the heights of Puligny Montrachet at the Pluckemin Inn. It will be an unbelievable night of food and wine. Make sure you are there.

-Read an ad in the Star Ledger today as I was perusing the classifieds offering "Excellent Asian Bodywork Massage, very discreet". The address listed below was a residence on my street. I'm speechless...

-I did a mini-offering on the Marcato Cabernet Franc, as we've got the 2008 in-stock. It is the best $12.50 (per bottle, by the case) that you will spend all year guaranteed. I love, love, love it!

-Tip for the Day - You should consider decanting high quality young Champagne a la Selosse, Rodez Grandes Vintages or Le Brun Servenay. What you lose in bubble, you'll be paid back in spades in flavor. And don't use a flute. Go for a white wine glass to snort up all those great aromas.

-Stevie Wonder Dripping with Funk! Circa 1973, this is just a stone cold jam!

Is that better?

JCB the 4th

I'm on Strike!

Like all enlightened leaders of the world who realize that violence is not the best way to resolve conflict, I will now take a page from the book of those who came before me. Ghandi did it. The Tibetan Parliament did it. Now I'm doing it.

I will not resort to violence to get you to realize the greatness of Merlot. I will now go on a strike of 14 days where I will drink nothing but Merlot. You know me...you know that I'm a slave to Burgundy, to the Rhone, to Piemonte, to the Nahe. But I will give it all up for you; for your benefit, for your enlightenment, and the richness of your wine soul.

Join me people! Rise up and make a statement that Merlot is not to be taken lightly, laughed at or poked fun of. It is a grape of nobility and complexity, on par with the greatest wines the world has ever seen. I loved the movie, Sideways, but its ripple effects are so deep and so broad that it rocked the American wine consumer to flat out reject one of the best grapes on earth. Who knew that Paul Giamatti and Thomas Hayden Church could wield such power? Sandra Oh (sexy!), perhaps, but those two guys? In the 80's, Merlot was the shizzle...so fashionable and sleek that you just had to be the one ordering a glass of Merlot while you rolled up the sleeves of your white blazer with a turquoise tank underneath. Now, if you order it, you get "sideways" looks and people wonder whether you slipped through a time/space continuum or you're just ignorant. You're neither folks, you're my friend!

This quest began because we profiled a wine, 2007 Chad Merlot Napa Valley, that is so delicious and so cheap, an outrageous value. Yet I sat at my computer and watched a few orders shuffle in. If this said Cabernet Sauvignon on the bottle, it would have sold through the roof! If I told you that it was actually a $40 bottle of wine for $15, would that matter? What if I just lied and told you it was Cabernet? But alas the ATF and my conscience won't allow me to do that, so I'll resort to this strike.

While Tim looks on in amazement as I purchase all the wines I will personally drink over the next 14 days, here is the list...

2007 Chad Merlot Napa Valley

2006 La Violette Cotes de Castillon

2006 L'Ecole #41 Merlot Columbia Valley

2006 Robert Sinskey Merlot Napa Valley

2006 Chateau Puygueraud Cotes de Francs

2006 La Gravette de Certan Pomerol

Spread my message far and wide! Join me! Viva la Merlot!

JCB the 4th

The Genius of Brooklyn Fare

I've decided to make some recollections of what I consider to be the greatest meal I've ever had. I know, a monstre-ously large statement to make and one that I can completely justify in my mind. I have certainly had more special meals (memorable romantic evenings) and I've certainly had more supremely complete experiences. I'll never forget the concert-like rhythmic movements of the staff at Le Meurice in Paris, the famed Michelin 3-star. It was so precise and the attention to detail elevated the already superb meal to legendary status in my head. But the food delivered on February 16th left me in complete awe.

Brooklyn Fare Kitchen is an amazing concept and is the genius of Chef Cesar Ramirez, a former exec-chef for David Bouley. It is called a "class" on their website but really it is the experience of being served the most precise and flavorful food by a master artisan chef live and up close. Having dined at Brooklyn Fare once before and loving the experience, I was eager to repeat it with my co-workers, so I made a reservation for the whole table back in November for February 16th. That's how tough a reservation it is, but believe me, persistence and patience here are well worth the reward you will receive.

Chris Cree did a great job of documenting the extent of culinary wizardry we experienced. Check it out here. Cesar does not allow photos any more and discourages note taking, which is a shame and also completely understandable. In the blogosphere in which we live, the last thing a chef as creative as Ramirez needs is to see digital pictures of his intellectual property out there for other chefs to steal. But it certainly robs food geeks like me of remembering (especially after the 6 magnums we downed, more on that in a bit) everything presented. And I want to remember. I want to file it away in my memory banks, so when I have a moment to daydream, I can recollect, reminisce and draw inspiration from it.

6 courses and 12--no typo--canapes to start. One after another of magnificence on a plate, I have never muttered the word "Wow" so often in one evening. The warm beet soup with Hudson Valley yogurt with a shave of citrus zest was so inviting and welcoming. The Bluefin Toro with a hint of mustard and crisped leeks was luscious. The Kumamoto oyster with grapefruit creme fraiche and oyster juice gelee was breathtaking. The King Crab --stolen photo at right, sue me--with caviar, vanilla and pineapple was explosive. Hell, I even ate Duck testicles (no bullshit) and loved it; fried into a crispy little "ball" that he conveniently didn't tell us what it was until everyone had already eaten it! And how could anyone forget the Cod creme with a mountain of shaved black truffle, so much so that Cesar let us know that the cost of the shaved truffle is more than what we paid for the meal. It is probably the simplest, yet most complex and thoroughly satisfying things that has ever caressed my palate.

The wines were all mags and all tasty...

NV Eric Rodez Champagne Brut "Cuvee des Crayeres" Ambonnay
NV De Meric Champagne Brut "Catherine de Medici" Ay
2001 Domaine Bzikot Puligny Montrachet Les Folatieres 1er cru
1999 Bouchard Corton Charlemagne Grand Cru
2006 Robert Sinskey Pinot Blanc Carneros
1999 Thomas Levet Cote Rotie Chavaroche
1986 Raymond Lafon Sauternes

I urge you to check this place out for yourself, as alas, the times are a changin' at Brooklyn Fare. This summer, they plan to expand, increase the price which is currently $95 per person and add a liquor license which will end the BYO practice. I volunteered to run the wine program for Cesar in exchange for food. Still waiting to hear back...

JCB the 4th

The Stream of Inebriationess from March 5th...

Probably more appropriate as a series of tweets but I wanted to get some short thoughts out...

- What in the world is up with restaurant markups on wine? Seriously, as someone who knows exactly how much these joints pay for this stuff, it's grotesque. I don't want to hear about glass breakage, insurance costs, license aquistitions or any other nonsense. Next time I see Ramey Larkmead Cabernet for $198 on a wine list (we just sold it retail for $55), I'm standing up, slapping the maitre'd in the face with the winelist and walking the *%#& out!

- While I'm on restaurants, why such laziness with selection? Please, for the sake of your customers, do a better job at having something of interest to wine lovers who frequent your establishment. A self-proclaimed winebar I recently visited had just one Riesling by the glass...from Kendall Jackson. Just what I envision when I thirst for Riesling, don't you?

- I was at a tasting last night. I love how polarizing wine can be, and I use the word "love" in the truest sense. Two wines poured next to each other drew visceral reactions from the crowd, some preferring the first and others the second. I guess that is why they make chocolate AND vanilla. When I was asked which I preferred, I simply responded, "Depends on what's for dinner..."

- Because I'm selfish, can suppliers please stop having portfolio tastings on Mondays? It's my one weekday off and tough to get to. I'd like you to all shift your events to Tuesdays, please. Thanks so much.

- I still eat peanut butter and jelly sandwiches like I'm a six year old. They actually go well with Tawny Port. Don't tell anyone I do this...

- 2007 Chateauneuf hype is the biggest perpetration committed against the wine public in quite a while. I've now plowed through enough of them to render an informed opinion that 2006 is better by a wide margin. Ask any truthful CdP producer and they'll tell you that 2006 is a better vintage. I have and haven't found one yet who prefers 2007. I'll keep searching.

- You should recognize the greatness of 2007 Domaine de la Pepiere Muscadet Granite de Clisson. It might be the greatest white wine ever made that goes for less than $25. I also think you'll live a better life once you get some. I know I have...

Le Monstre, OUT!

JCB the 4th

When Only The Best Will Do...

It's been a while since I've dropped the top picks, so it's time for some good ol' fashioned shuckin' for sheckles, or as some may say, showing off the goods. This is the weeks' best tasted and approved selections at 56...

2008 Willowbrook Pinot Noir Sonoma County - I am continually amazed at just how many unheard of outfits there are in California these days making really good wine at very fair tariffs. Add this the list as it flavorful, lovely wine eschewing the steroid-size Pinot trend. Especially with Pinot, it's not about who's is bigger, but more about delivering pleasure. This wine has it down to perfection.

2008 Domaine du Bagnol Cassis Blanc (can't get the damn link workin', but call us!) - In a shameless attempt to corner the Bagnol Rose market, I happily agreed to hoard as much of this beautiful white wine as we could get our grubbies on. While the Rose is months away, this is a little ray of sunshine in a month where we could certainly use it. Fragrant melons, white peaches and honeydew...it's like a glass of hand-squeezed fruit goodness with laser acids. In short, a white of the highest order with the most reasonable of prices.

NV DeMeric Champagne Brut "Catherine de Medici" Cuvee Prestige Ay Grand Cru MAGNUM - Wanna be a baller, shotcaller, brawler? Of course you do, and nothing gives you pimp status like killer bubbles in a big sexy bottle. This amazing wine from DeMeric is a blend that is rarely made and is comprised of only the best vintages, in this case 1995 and 1996. So fine and pedigreed, this elegant wine sneaks up on you with bits of apple pie, caramel, pear, brioche and creme brulee. Seriously, if you care at all about Champagne, you have to have one of these; they are extremely limited as only 60 bottles made it in the US.

As an aside to the last wine, I was fortunate enough to enjoy the aforementioned magnum of Champagne on Tuesday night at Brooklyn Fare Kitchen , featuring the genius of Chef Cesar Ramirez. It's a very difficult reservation but if you have the opportunity (and schedule flexibility) you will be treated to something truly magical. I will talk more about this place in a subsequent post, but in short, it was the greatest meal I have ever had, period. No doubt and nothing even comes close.

Holla!

JCB the 4th

The Off Day

While I've always waxed on and on about the blazing gut-busting pace of these trips, there usually is an "off" day of sorts. It is typically Sunday, as it is the one day where most producers could care less that you are available and care more about rest and family time. With the amount of work these artisans have to perform over the course of the year, you can't blame them.

But this Sunday marked a visit to Pouilly-Fuisse. We made the 90 minute drive to the Macon and, amazingly, I forgot to bring my Blackberry, which to me is akin to forgetting to breathe. That rarity aside, honestly, I didn't love the wines...and it's not because I had just been filled to the gills with Puligny Montrachet for the previous four days. To me, they were slightly heavy handed, lacking a bit of precision and personality. And you might have noticed by now that I haven't mentioned the producer. He's young and I think the wines have potential, so I'll choose to not rain on them and hope to try again in the future.


Upon exiting the Macon, we took the long route back to Puligny and toured a few sites along the way driving through St. Aubin, St. Romain (the worst terroir in ALL of Burgundy, seriously someone should just bulldoze it!) and Aloxe Corton finally ending up in Meursault. A trek to the Caveau de Chassagne yielded a couple nice finds that were later to be consumed on the trip. Finally, we ended up at the Caveau de Puligny, with proprietor Julien Wallerand opening some astounding wines, served blind of course, for us...

2007 Henri Boillot Pulingy Montrachet Clos de la Mouchere 1er cru
1999 Domaine Leflaive Puligny Montrachet Les Pucelles 1er cru
2001 Domaine Leflaive Chevalier Montrachet Grand Cru

Now that is what I call an aperitif!

Dinner at Hotel Le Montrachet with Rose & Pascal Maillard, Didier Larue and Julien Wallerand yielded the following beauties, all served blind...


NV Meilly Champagne Brut Magnum
2006 Domaine Larue Puligny Montrachet Le Trezin
2007 Marc Colin Chassagne Montrachet Le Caillerets 1er cru Magnum
2001 Domaine Leflaive Batard Montrachet Grand Cru
1992 Domaine Larue Blagny Rouge Sous le Puits 1er cru
2007 Domaine Maillard Pommard
1990 Domaine de Montille Volnay Taillepieds
1999 Meo Camuzet Vosne Romanee Les Chaumes

Lots of great discussion ensued about the wines...Was the bubbly a touch oxidized? Is this Vosne Romanee? Was the Montille in good (my camp) or great shape? But without question, the singular greatest memory of the nights wines will be the 1992 Blagny, an unheralded vintage and an unheralded appellation, this wine was one that would rock you to your core, leaving you feeling that you don't know as much as you thought about the potential of greatness of wine. The wine was lyrical, profound and devastating. Sigh...

Quite the Off Day.

JCB the 4th