Sunday, September 27, 2009

Coming Ko-rrect...

While this restaurant is subject to a wide variety of opinions in the blogosphere, I just wanted to relay my thoughts as I dined at Momofuku Ko a few nights ago. Forget the sparse minimalist 12-seats, impossible reservation system that rewards those with itchy trigger fingers and super fast internet connections or even the slightly underwhelming wine list...this place is what I would open with unlimited funds and no one to answer to. Complete with a pumping soundtrack of every thing I love musically: Jay Z to Weezer to Led Zeppelin to Mos Def to James Brown, it's an unrelenting artistic endeavor. Why else would one open a micro-sized, mega-course restaurant with a food max $ intake of $2400 ($100 pp x 12 seats and two seatings) a night? Certainly not a king’s ransom in Manhattan...

But it's really about the food. Determined to live in the moment and not tweet my way through the dining experience, I didn't document each of the 10+ courses presented. But this was clearly the best meal I've ever had in NYC and pretty close to the best one ever, period. The amuse of feather light Pork Rind and an English Muffin of salty Pork fat melts in the mouth. Things like Oxtail Consomm√© with Caramelized Onion Ravioli, Purple Basil and Cilantro were so fine and subtle, while an intense southwestern inspired, Sweet Grilled Corn Ravioli with Chorizo, Pickled Heiloom Tomato and Scallions literally exploded with flavor. The amazing (and now famous) Lychee, Riesling Gelee, Pine Nut Brittle and shaved frozen Fois Gras just might be the best thing I’ve ever consumed despite the plate looking like a Fois Gras snowstorm. A Deep Fried Short Rib braised in Soy Sauce, Mirin and Sugar is wondrous. Blueberries with Black Pepper Crumble and Black Pepper Ganache is a sweet, savory dream.

I ordered a 375ml of 2004 Domaine Ferret Pouilly-Fuisse “Le Clos” which was delicious and drinking to perfection. I opted for the $45 corkage and brought a bottle from my cellar, 1996 Joseph Roty Gevrey Chambertin Les Fontenys 1er cru (link to the 2006 -- give it a decade and it will be just as amazing). It was showing brilliantly with loads of luscious black cherry fruit, Gevrey-spice, deep sappy cassis, and hints of animal. Phenomenal with the Short Rib…

I hope that one day I can return and despite the coolish demeanor of the guys behind the line, I’m in love. And when you’re in love, one’s slight foibles are endearing. If you are lucky enough to get in here, you’re really in for an unforgettable meal.

JCB the 4th

Saturday, September 19, 2009

The Stream of Inebriation Documented

I'm sure you thought the subtitle of this blog was a joke, but a few days ago, I connected electrodes to my brain to capture what flows through my head while sleeping. The results were shocking to say the least.

Almondo's Roero Arneis...best...citrus...minerally...barking dogs need to stop...White Pie with Broccoli...Michael Vick...almonds...long finish...no more barking

Oddero...dynamite...old school...my delightful Nebbiolo grape...Risotto...clown in grease paint mocking a school kid...2005 Barolo's better than 04's, possible?...kid kicks clown in groin...Sette Cucina...lovely...paybacks


Fries Riesling Auslese...rich and sweet...The Jefferson's Weezie...baked apple compote...Hogan's Hero's Col. Klink...aging forever...stones, stones, stones and acid...pork chops and applesauce...Sanford and Son's Lamont...amazing deal...Horshack

Anyone have the number of a good dream therapist?

JCB the 4th

Friday, September 11, 2009

A Haiku for That...

Longing Freak of Wine
Stemware Edge to Wanting Lips
Nectar Bringing Love

Inspiration - Selosse

JCB the 4th

Friday, September 4, 2009

Angrily Staying Ahead of the Herds!

I'm a little pissed and I'm comin' out swingin'!

I've documented how much I enjoy the wines of Brewer Clifton, a long time fan. My trip to Santa Barbara a couple months ago only galvanized my admiration of what Greg Brewer and Steve Clifton are accomplishing in the Santa Rita Hills. Fine, Ok, so what has my panties in a bunch? This morning, I found out that all the wines are gone. And the reason for this is the Wine Advocate gave them big scores the day before and the stampede commenced.


Liz Willette (the fantastic NY distributor) has had these wines in her warehouse for probably 6 months. They have been shown at multiple tastings and my sales rep has brought them out to taste as well. Bottom line, any retailer or restauranteur who wanted to try them since then had ample opportunity to use their own palates and buy accordingly. Instead, like the lazy lumps they are, they sit around waiting for Lord Parker to tell them what to buy and how good it is by way of a numerical figure. And once he weights in the herds descend like cattle infected with Mad Cow Disease. It makes my nuts!

Believe me, I have no axe to grind with Robert Parker. He has done way more good for the wine world than almost anyone in the last 50 years. I don't necessarily agree with his palate, but that's why they make chocolate and vanilla. It's not Parker's fault that the entire wine world hangs on his every word, to the point where winemakers are crafting wines solely to impress him. That's another rant for another day.

In summation, here is a link to the Brewer Clifton wines we have in stock, the Santa Rita Hills Chardonnay and the Santa Rita Hills Pinot Noir. Both are solid Burgundian styled efforts that I've tasted and think are special. I've calmed down now. Thanks for helping me through this...

JCB the 4th